residents during his two visits, he was able to collect numerous
interesting details respecting the Australian colony. Therefore the
chapter that he devotes to New South Wales, recording the marvellous
and rapid advance of this effort at colonization, excited a lively
interest in France, where the development and growing prosperity of
Australia were very imperfectly known. Freycinet's narrative was there
quite a new revelation, well calculated to excite inquiry, and which
had, moreover, the advantage of showing the exact condition of the
colony so late as the year 1825.
The chain of mountains at some distance from the coast, known by the
name of the Australian Alps, separates New South Wales from the
interior of the Australian continent. For twenty-five years this chain
formed a barrier against all communication with the country beyond; but
now, thanks to the energy of Governor Macquarie, the barrier has been
removed. A zigzag road has been cut in the rock, thus opening the way
to the colonization of wide spreading plains watered by important
rivers. The loftiest summits of this chain, nearly 10,000 feet in
height, are covered with snow even in the middle of summer. Whilst the
elevation of the principal peaks, Mount Exmouth, Mount Cunningham, and
others was being taken, it was discovered that so far from Australia
possessing only one large watercourse, the Swan River, it had several,
the chief being Hawkesbury River, formed by the confluence of the
Nepean, the Grose, and the Brisbane; the river Murray not being yet
known. At the period under notice a commencement had been made in the
working of coal-mines, slate quarries, layers of solid carbonate of
iron, sandstone, chalk, porphyry and jasper; but the presence of gold,
the metal that was to effect so rapid a development of the young
colony, had not as yet been established.
The nature of the soil varies. On the sea-coast it is barren, able only
to support the growth of a few stunted trees; but inland the traveller
meets with fields clothed with a rich vegetation, vast pasturages in
which here and there rise a few tall shrubs, and forests where giant
trees entwined with an inextricable growth of underwood, defy all
attempts to penetrate to their recesses.
[Illustration: An Australian farm near the Blue Mountains. (Fac-simile
of early engraving.)]
One circumstance which much surprised travellers was the apparent
homogeneity of race throughout the whole of this immense continent.
Take the aborigines at the Bay of Sharks, or in the land of Endracht,
or by the Swan River, or at Port Jackson, and the same complexion, and
the same kind of hair, the same features, the same physique, all prove
indisputably that they have sprung from one common origin. Those
dwelling by the rivers or on the sea coast subsist chiefly on shell or
other fish, but those living in the interior trust to hunting for their
food, and will eat indiscriminately the flesh of the opossum or the
kangaroo, not rejecting even lizards, snakes, worms, or ants, the last
named of which they manufacture into a sort of paste with the addition
of their eggs and the roots of ferns. All over the continent the
practice of the aborigines is to go completely naked; though they have
no objection to put on any articles of European clothing that they can
get possession of. It is said that in 1820 at Port Jackson there was a
laughable caricature of the European style of dress to be seen in the
person of an ancient negress who went about clothed in some pieces of
an old woollen blanket, wearing on her head a bonnet of green silk. A
few of the aborigines, however, make themselves cloaks of opossum or
kangaroo skin, stitching the pieces together with the nerve-fibres of
the cassowary; but this kind of garment is of rare occurrence.
Though their hair is smooth, they plaster it with grease and arrange it
in curls. Then inserting in the middle a tuft of grass, they raise a
strange and comical superstructure, surmounted by a few cockatoo
feathers; or failing these, they fasten on, with the aid of a resinous
gum, a few human teeth, or some bits of bone, a dog's tail, or one or
two fish bones. Although the practice of tattooing is not much in
favour among the natives of New Holland, some are occasionally to be
seen who have succeeded by means of sharp shells in cutting symmetrical
figures upon their skins. A more general custom is that of painting on
their bodies monstrous designs in red and white colours which, on their
dark skins, give them an almost diabolical aspect.
These savages formerly believed that after death they would take the
form of children, and be transported to the clouds or to the summits of
lofty trees, where, in a sort of aërial paradise, they would be regaled
with plentiful repasts. But since the arrival of the Europeans their
faith on this point has undergone some change, their present belief
being, that metamorphosed into whites they will go to inhabit some
far-off land. It is also an article of their creed that the whites
themselves are no other than their own ancestors, who, having been
killed in battle, have assumed the form of Europeans.
[Illustration: Native Australians.]
The census of 1819--one of the strictest hitherto instituted--gives the
number of the colonists at 25,425; this return, it must be understood,
does not take in the soldiers. The women being very much in the
minority, the mother-country had made efforts to remedy the
inconvenience resulting from this great disparity of the sexes, by
promoting the immigration of young women, who soon married and founded
families of a higher tone of morality than that of the convicts.
Freycinet devotes a very long chapter in his narrative to all matters
connected with political economy. The various soils and the crops
suited to them; industrial pursuits; the breeding of cattle; farming
economy; manufactures; foreign trade; means of communication;
government;--all these subjects are treated comprehensively on the
authority of documents then newly compiled, and with an ability that
could scarcely have been expected from a man who had not given special
attention to questions of this nature. He has, moreover, added a close
inquiry into the regimen which the convicts were subjected to from the
time of their arrival in the colony, the punishments they had to
undergo, as also the encouragements and rewards which were readily
granted to them, when earned by good behaviour. The chapter concludes
with reflections full of learning and sound judgment on the probable
development and future prosperity of the Australian colony.
After this long and fruitful stay in New Holland, the -Uranie- put to
sea on the 25th December, 1819, and steered so as to pass to the south
of New Zealand and Campbell Island, with the view of doubling Cape
Horn. A few days afterwards ten fugitive convicts were discovered on
board; but the corvette had left the shores of Australia too far behind
to allow of their restoration. The coast of Tierra del Fuego was
reached without anything worthy of special notice having occurred
during a very prosperous voyage, with a prevailing west wind. On the
5th February, Cape Desolation was sighted. Having doubled Cape Horn
without any difficulty, the -Uranie- let go her anchor in the Bay of
Good Success, where the shores, lined with grand forest-trees and
echoing to the sound of waterfalls, presented a scene totally different
from the sterile desolation generally characterizing this quarter of
the globe. No long stay was, however, made there; the corvette resuming
her voyage, lost no time in entering the Strait of Le Maire,
notwithstanding a dense haze. Here she met with a heavy swell, a strong
gale, and a mist so thick that land, sea, and sky were confounded in
one general obscurity. The rain and the heavy spray raised by the
storm, and the coming on of night, made it necessary to put the
-Uranie- under a close-reefed topsail and jib, under which pressure of
sail she behaved splendidly. The only available course was to run
before the wind, and the travellers had just begun to feel thankful for
their good fortune in being driven by the storm far away from the land,
when the cry was heard, "Land close ahead!"
All hearts sunk with despair; shipwreck and death seemed inevitable.
Freycinet alone, after a brief instant of hesitation, recovered his
self-command. It was impossible that land could be ahead. He,
therefore, kept on his northerly course, bearing a little east, and the
correctness of his calculations was soon verified. On the next day but
one the weather grew calmer; observations were taken, and as they
proved the vessel to have run a great distance from the Bay of Good
Success, the commander had to choose between a detention off the coast
of South America, or off the Falkland Islands. The island of Conti, the
Bay of Marville, and Cape Duras, were successively observed through the
haze, whilst a favourable breeze speeded the corvette on her course to
Berkeley Sound, fixed on as the best place for the next halt.
Mutual congratulations were already being exchanged on the happy
termination of the dangerous struggle, and on the fortunate escape from
any serious accident during so hazardous a trip. The sailors all
rejoiced, to use the words of Byron, that--
"The worst was over, and the rest seemed sure."
But a severe trial was still in store for them!
On entering Berkeley Sound, every man was at his post, ready to let go
the anchor. The look-outs were on the watch, men were stationed in the
main-shrouds to heave the lead. Then first at twenty, after at eighteen
fathoms, the presence of rocks was reported. The ship was now about
half a league off shore, and Freycinet thought it prudent to put her
off about two points. This precaution proved fatal, for the corvette
suddenly struck violently on a hidden rock. As she struck, the
soundings gave fifteen fathoms to starboard, and twelve to larboard.
The reef against which the corvette had run, was, therefore, not so
wide as the vessel itself; in fact, it was but the pointed summit of a
rock.
The immediate rising of pieces of wood to the surface of the water at
once gave reason for fears that the injury was serious. There was a
rush to the pumps. Water was pouring into the hold. Freycinet had sent
for a sail, and had it passed under the vessel in such a manner that
the pressure of the water forcing it into the leak in a measure stopped
it up. But it was of no avail. Although the whole ship's company,
officers and sailors alike, worked at the pumps, no more could be done
than just keep the water from gaining on the vessel. There was nothing
for it but to run her ashore. This decision, painful as it was, had to
be carried out, and it was indeed no easy task. On every side the land
was girded with rocks, and only at the very bottom of the bay was there
a strip of sandy beach favourable for running the ship aground.
Meanwhile the wind had become contrary, night was approaching, the
vessel was already half full of water. The distress of the commander
can be imagined. But there was no alternative, so the vessel was
stranded on Penguin Island.
"This effected," to quote Freycinet, "the men were so exhausted that it
was necessary to cease further work of every kind, and to allow the
crew an interval of rest, all the more indispensable on account of the
hardships and dangers which our present disastrous situation must
entail upon all. As for myself, repose was out of the question.
Tormented by a thousand harassing reflections, I could scarcely credit
my own existence. The sudden transition from a position where all
things seemed to smile on me, to that in which I found myself at that
moment, weighed on my spirits like a horrible nightmare. It was
difficult to regain the composure necessary to face fairly the painful
trial. All my companions had done their duty in the frightful accident,
which had all but lost us our lives, and I am glad to be able to do
justice to their admirable conduct.
"As soon as daylight revealed the nature of the country, a mournful
gloomy look settled upon every countenance. Not a tree, not so much as
a blade of grass was to be seen, not a sound was to be heard, and the
silent desolation around reminded us of the Bay of Sharks."
[Illustration: Berkeley Sound, in the Falkland Islands.]
But there was no time to be lost in vain lamentations. Was the sea to
be allowed to swallow up the journals and observations, the precious
results of so much labour and so many hardships?
All the papers were saved. The same good fortune did not,
unfortunately, attend the collections. Several cases of specimens which
were at the bottom of the hold were entirely lost; others were damaged
by the sea water. The collections that sustained the chief injury were
those of natural history, and the herbarium that had been put together
with infinite trouble by Gaudichaud. The merino sheep, generously
presented to the expedition by Mr. MacArthur, of Sydney, which it was
hoped could be acclimatized in France, were brought on shore, as also
were all the animals still alive.
A few tents were pitched, first for the sick, happily not very
numerous, and then for the officers and the crew. The provisions and
ammunition taken out of the ship were carefully deposited in a place
where they would be sheltered from the inclemency of the weather. The
alcoholic liquors were allowed to remain on board until the time
arrived for quitting the scene of the shipwreck, and during the three
months of the expedition's stay here, not a single theft of rum or of
brandy came to light, although no one had anything to drink but pure
water.
The efforts of the whole of the expedition were steadily applied to the
task of trying to repair the main injuries sustained by the -Uranie-,
with the exception of a few sailors told off to provide, by hunting and
fishing, for the subsistence of the community. The lakes were
frequented by numbers of sea-lions, geese, ducks, teal, and snipe, but
it was no easy matter to procure, at one time, a sufficient quantity of
these animals to serve for the food of the entire crew; at the same
time, the expenditure of powder was necessarily considerable. As good
luck would have it, gulls abounded in sufficient numbers to furnish a
hundred and twenty men with food for four or five months, and these
creatures were so stupid as to allow themselves to be knocked on the
head with a stick. A few horses were also killed which had relapsed
into a wild state since the departure of the colony founded by
Bougainville.
By the 28th February the painful conclusion was come to, that with the
slender resources available, it was impracticable to repair the damage
done to the -Uranie-, especially as the original injury had been
aggravated by the repeated shocks occasioned by thumping on the beach.
"What was to be done?" Should the explorers calmly wait until some
vessel chanced to put in at Berkeley Sound? This would be to leave the
sailors with nothing to do, and this enforced idleness would open the
door to disorder and insubordination. Would it not be better to build a
small vessel out of the wreckage of the -Uranie-? As it happened, there
was a large sloop belonging to the ship; if the sides were raised, and
a deck added, it might be possible to reach Monte Video, and there
obtain the assistance of a vessel capable of bringing off in safety the
members of the expedition and all the cargo worth preserving. This
latter plan met with the approval of Freycinet, and a decision once
come to, not a moment was wasted.
The sailors, animated with fresh energy, rapidly pushed on the work.
Now was proved the sound judgment of the commander when manning the
corvette at Toulon, in selecting sailors who were also skilled in some
mechanical employment. Blacksmiths, sail-makers, rope-makers, sawyers,
all worked with zeal at the different tasks assigned to them.
No doubts were entertained of the success of the voyage before them.
Monte Video was separated from the Falkland Islands by but three
hundred and fifty nautical miles, and with the winds prevailing in
these latitudes at this time of year, this distance could be traversed
in a few days by the -Esperance---for so the transformed sloop was
named. To provide, at the same time, against the possible contingency
of the frail vessel failing to reach the Rio de la Plata, Freycinet
determined to commence the construction of a schooner of a hundred
tons, as soon as the sloop had taken her departure. Notwithstanding the
incessant demands on the energies of all made by the arduous and varied
tasks involved in reconstruction and refitting of the new vessel, the
usual astronomical and physical observations, the natural history
researches and the hydrographical surveys, were not neglected. No one
could have imagined that the stay in Berkeley Sound was anything more
than an ordinary halt for exploring purposes.
At last the sloop was finished and safely launched. The instructions
for Captain Duperrey, appointed to take command, were all drawn up; the
crew was selected; the provisions were on board; in two days the
adventurers were to sail, when on the 19th March, 1820, the cry was
raised, "A sail! a sail!" A sloop under full sail was seen entering the
bay.
A cannon was fired several times to attract attention, and in a short
time the master of the new arrival was on shore. In a few words
Freycinet explained to him the misadventure which had led to the
residence of the explorers upon this desolate coast. The master stated
in reply that he was under the orders of the captain of an American
ship, the -General Knox-, engaged in the seal-fishery at West Island,
to the west of the Falklands. An officer was at once deputed to go and
ascertain from the captain what succour he could render to the French
travellers. The result of the interview was a demand for 135,750 francs
for the conveyance of the shipwrecked strangers to Rio--an unworthy
advantage to take of the necessities of the unfortunate. To such a
bargain the French officer was unwilling to agree without the consent
of his commander; so he begged the American captain to sail for
Berkeley Sound. While these negotiations were going on, however,
another ship, the -Mercury-, under command of Captain Galvin, had made
its appearance in the bay. The -Mercury- was bound from Buenos Ayres to
Valparaiso with cannon, but just before doubling Cape Horn she had
sprung a leak, and was compelled to put in at the Falkland Islands to
make the necessary repairs. It was a fortunate incident for the
Frenchmen, who knew they could turn to account the competition which
must result from the arrival of two ships.
[Illustration: The -Mercury- at anchor in Berkeley Sound.]
Freycinet at once made an offer to Captain Galvin to repair the damage
the -Mercury- had sustained, with the materials and the labour at his
command, asking in return for this service a free passage for himself
and his companions to Rio de Janeiro.
At the end of fifteen days the repairs of the -Mercury- were completed.
While they were going on, the negotiation with the -General Knox- was
terminated by a positive refusal on the part of Freycinet to agree to
the extravagant terms proposed by the American captain. It took several
days to come to a settlement with Captain Galvin, who finally made the
following agreement.
1. Captain Galvin engaged to convey to Rio the wrecked persons, their
papers, collections, and instruments, as well as all the cargo saved
out of the -Uranie- that could be got on board.
2. Freycinet and his people were during the passage to subsist entirely
on the provisions set apart for them.
3. That the captain was to receive the sum of 97,740 francs within ten
days of their arrival at Rio. By the acceptance of these truly
extortionate conditions a bargain, which had cost much dispute, was
finally settled.
Before leaving the Falklands, however, the naturalist, Gaudichaud,
planted its destitute shores with several sorts of vegetables, which he
thought likely to be of service to future voyagers who might be
detained there.
A few particulars regarding this archipelago will not be without
interest. The group, lying between 50 degrees 57 minutes, and 52
degrees 45 minutes S. latitude, and 60 degrees 4 minutes, 63 degrees 48
minutes west of the meridian of Paris, consists of several islets and
two principal islands, named Conti and Maidenland. Berkeley Sound,
situated in the extreme east of the Conti Island, is a wide opening,
rather deep than extensive, with a shelving rocky coast. The
temperature of the islands is milder than one would expect from the
high latitude. Snow does not fall in any great quantity, and does not
remain even on the summits of the highest hills longer than for about
two months. The streams are never frozen, and the lakes and marshes are
never covered with ice hard enough to bear the weight of a man, for
more than twenty-four hours consecutively. From the observations of
Weddell, who visited these parts between 1822 and 1824, the temperature
must have risen considerably during the last forty years in consequence
of a change in the direction taken by the icebergs which melt away in
the mid-Atlantic. M. Quoy, the naturalist, judging from the shallowness
of the sea between the Falkland Islands and South America, as well as
the resemblance of their grassy plains to the pampas of Buenos Ayres,
is of opinion that they once formed part of the continent. These plains
are low, marshy, covered with tall grass and shrubs, and are inundated
in the winter. Peat is abundant and makes excellent fuel. The character
of the soil has proved an obstacle to the growth of the trees which
Bougainville endeavoured to acclimatize, of which scarce a vestige
remained at the time of Freycinet's visit. The plant which reaches the
greatest height and grows most plentifully is a species of sword-grass,
excellent food for cattle, and serving also as a place of shelter to
numbers of seals and multitudes of gulls. It is this high grass which
sailors have taken from a distance for bushes. The only vegetables
growing on these islands of any use to man are celery, scurvy-grass,
watercress, dandelion, raspberries, sorrel, and pimpernel.
Both French and Spanish colonists had at different times imported into
these islands oxen, horses, and pigs, which had multiplied to a
singular extent in the island of Conti; but the persistent hunting of
them by the crews of the whaling ships must tend to considerably reduce
their numbers. The only quadruped indigenous to the Falkland Islands is
the Antarctic dog, the muzzle of which strikingly resembles that of the
fox. It has therefore had the name dog-fox, or wolf-fox, given to it by
whalers. These animals are so fierce that they rushed into the water to
attack Byron's sailors. They, however, find rabbits enough, whose
reproductive powers are limitless, to satisfy them; but the seals,
which the dogs attack without any fear, manage to escape from them.
The -Mercury- set sail on the 28th of April, 1821, to convey Freycinet
and his crew to the port of Rio de Janeiro. But one point Captain
Galvin had failed to take into his reckoning,--his ship, equipped under
the flag of the Independent State of Buenos Ayres, then at war with the
Portuguese, would be seized on entering the harbour of Rio, and he
himself with all his crew would be made prisoners. On this he
endeavoured to make Freycinet cancel the engagement between them,
hoping to prevail on him to land at Monte Video. But as Freycinet would
not agree to this proposal on any ground, a new contract had to be
substituted for the original one. According to the latter arrangement
Freycinet became proprietor of the -Mercury- on behalf of the French
navy by payment of the sum stipulated under the first contract. The
ship was renamed the -Physicienne-, and reached Monte Video on the 8th
of May, where the command was taken over by Freycinet. The stay at
Monte Video was made use of for arming the vessel, arranging its trim,
repairing the rigging, taking on board the supply of water and
provisions requisite for the trip to Rio de Janeiro; before reaching
which port, however, several serious defects in the ship had been
discovered. The appearance of the -Physicienne- was so distinctly
mercantile that on entering the port of Rio, though the flag of a
man-of-war was flying at the masthead, the customs officers were
deceived and proposed to inspect her as a merchant-vessel. Extensive
repairs were absolutely necessary, and the making of them compelled
Freycinet to remain at Rio until the 18th of September. He was then
able to take his departure direct for France; and on the 13th of
November, 1820, he cast anchor in the port of Havre, after an absence
of three years and two months, during which time he had sailed over
18,862 nautical miles.
A few days after his return, Freycinet proceeded to Paris, suffering
from a severe illness, and forwarded to the secretary of the Academy of
Sciences the scientific records of the voyage, which made no less than
thirty-one quarto volumes. At the same time, the naturalists attached
to the expedition, MM. Quoy, Gaimard, and Gaudichaud, submitted the
specimens which they had collected. Among these were four previously
unknown species of mammiferous animals, forty-five of fishes, thirty of
reptiles, besides rare kinds of molluscs, polypes, annelides, &c., &c.
The rules of the French service required that Freycinet should be
summoned before a council of war to answer for the loss of his ship.
The trial terminated in a unanimous verdict of acquittal from all
blame, the council expressing at the same time their hearty
acknowledgment of the energy and ability displayed by the commander,
approving, moreover, the skilful and careful measures he had taken to
remedy the disastrous results of his shipwreck. A few days after, being
received by the king, Louis XVIII., his Majesty, accompanying him to
the door, said, "You entered here the captain of a frigate, you depart
the captain of a ship of the line. Offer me no thanks; reply in the
words used by Jean Bart to Louis XIV., 'Sire, you have done well!'"
From that time Freycinet devoted himself entirely to the task of
publishing the notes of his travels. The meagre account which has been
given here will serve to show how extensive these notes were. But the
extreme conscientiousness of the explorer prevented him from publishing
anything which was not complete, and he was bent on placing his work in
advance of the recognized boundaries of knowledge at that date. Even
the mere classification of the vast quantity of material which he had
collected during his voyage demanded a large expenditure of time. Thus
it was that when surprised by death on the 18th of August, 1842, he had
not put the last finishing touch to one of the most curious and novel
divisions of his work, that relating to the languages of Oceania with
special reference to that of the Marianne Islands.
At the close of the year 1821 the Marquis de Clermont Tonnerre, then
Minister of Marine, received the scheme of a new voyage from two young
officers, MM. Duperrey and Dumont d'Urville. The former, second in
command to Freycinet on board the -Uranie-, after having rendered
valuable assistance to the expedition by his scientific researches and
surveys, had within the year returned to France; the other, the
colleague of Captain Garnier, had brought himself into notice during
the hydrographical cruises in the Mediterranean and Black Seas, which
it had fallen to Captain Garnier to complete. He had a fine taste for
botany and art, and had been one of the first to draw attention to the
artistic value of the Venus of Milos which had just been discovered.
These two young -savants- proposed in the plan submitted by them to
make special researches into three departments of natural
science--magnetism, meteorology, and the configuration of the globe.
"In the geographical department," said Duperrey, "we would propose to
verify or to rectify, either by direct, or by chronometrical
observations, the position of a great number of points in different
parts of the globe, especially among the numerous island groups of the
Pacific Ocean, notorious for shipwrecks, and so remarkable for the
character and the form of the shoals, sandbanks, and reefs, of which
they in part consist; also to trace new routes through the Dangerous
Archipelago and the Society Islands, side by side with those taken by
Quiros, Wallis, Bougainville, and Cook; to carry on hydrographical
surveys in continuation of those made in the voyages of D'Entrecasteaux
and of Freycinet in Polynesia, New Holland, and the Molucca Islands;
and particularly to visit the Caroline Islands, discovered by Magellan,
about which, with the exception of the eastern side, examined in our
own time by Captain Kotzebue, we have only very vague information,
communicated by the missionaries, and by them learnt from stories told
by savages who had lost their way and were driven in their canoes upon
the Marianne Islands. The languages, character, and customs of these
islanders must also receive special and careful attention."
The naval doctors, Garnon and Lesson, were placed in charge of the
natural history department, whilst the staff was composed of officers
most remarkable for their scientific attainments, among whom may be
mentioned MM. Lesage, Jacquinot, Bérard, Lottin, De Blois, and De
Blosseville.
The Academy of Sciences took up the plan of research submitted by the
originators of this expedition with much enthusiasm, and furnished them
with minute instructions, in which were set forth with care the points
on which accurate scientific information was especially desirable. At
the same time the instruments supplied to the explorers were the most
finished and complete of their kind.
The vessel chosen for the expedition was the -Coquille-, a small ship,
not drawing more than from twelve to thirteen feet of water, which was
lying in ordinary at Toulon. The time spent in refitting, stowing the
cargo, arming the ship, prevented the expedition from starting earlier
than the 11th of August, 1822. The island of Teneriffe was reached on
the 28th of the same month, and there the officers hoped to be able to
make a few gleanings after the rich harvest of knowledge which their
predecessors had reaped; but the Council of Health in the island,
having received information of an outbreak of yellow fever on the
shores of the Mediterranean, imposed on the -Coquille- a quarantine of
fifteen days. It happened, however, that at that period political
opinion was in a state of fervid excitement at Teneriffe, and party
spirit ran so high in society that the inhabitants found it hard to
come together without also coming to blows. Under these circumstances
it is easy to imagine that the French officers did not indulge in
violent regrets over the privations which they had to sustain. The
eight days during which their stay at Teneriffe lasted were given up
exclusively to the revictualling of the ship, and to magnetic and
astronomical observations.
Towards the end of September anchor was weighed, and on the 6th of
October the work of surveying the islands of Martin-Vaz and of Trinidad
was commenced. The former are nothing more than bare rocks rising out
of the sea, of a most forbidding aspect. The island of Trinidad is high
land, rugged and barren, with a few trees crowning the southern point.
This island is none other than the famous Ascençao--now called
Ascension--which for three centuries had been the object of exploring
research. In 1700 it was taken possession of by the celebrated Halley
in the name of the English Government, but it had to be ceded to the
Portuguese, who formed a settlement there. La Pérouse found it still in
existence at the same place in 1785. The settlement, which turned out
expensive and useless, was abandoned a short time after the visit just
referred to, and the island was left in the occupation of the dogs,
pigs, and goats, whose progenitors had entered the island in company
with the early colonists.
When he left the island of Trinidad, Duperrey purposed to steer a
direct course for the Falkland Islands; but an accidental damage, in
the repair of which no time was to be lost, compelled him to alter his
course for the island of St. Catherine, where only he could obtain
without any delay the wood required for new yards and masts, as well as
provisions, which from their abundance could there be bought very
cheap. As he drew near to the island he was delighted with the grand
and picturesque scene presented by its dense forests, where
laurel-trees, sassafras, cedars, orange-trees, and mangroves
intermingled with banana and other palms, with their feathery foliage
waving gracefully in the breeze. Just four days before the corvette
anchored off St. Catherine, Brazil had cast off the authority of the
mother-country, and declared its independence by the proclamation of
Prince Don Pedro d'Alcantara as Emperor. This led the commander to
despatch a mission consisting of MM. d'Urville, de Blosseville, Gabert,
and Garnot to the capital of the island, Nossa-Senhora-del-Desterro, to
make inquiries about the political change, and learn how far it might
modify the friendly relations of the country with France. It appeared
that the administration of the province was in the hands of a Junto,
but orders were at once given to allow the French travellers to cut
what wood they might stand in need of, and the Governor of the Fort of
Santa Cruz was requested to further the scientific inquiries of the
Expedition by all the means at his command. As to provisions, however,
there was considerable difficulty, for the merchants had transferred
their funds to Rio, in apprehension of what the political change might
result in. It is probable that this circumstance accounts for the
commander of the -Coquille- finding the course of business not run
smooth in a port which had received the warm recommendations of
Captains Kruzenstern and Kotzebue.
The narrative of the travellers states that "the inhabitants were
living in expectation of the island being shortly attacked with the
view to recolonization, which they considered would be tantamount to
their enslavement. The decree issued on the 1st August, 1822, calling
on all Brazilians to arm themselves for the defence of their shores and
proclaiming under all circumstances a war of partisans had given rise
to these fears. The measures which Prince Don Pedro propounded were
equally generous and vigorous, and had created a favourable opinion of
his character and of his desire to promote freedom. Full of confidence
in his purposes, the strong party in favour of independence were filled
with enthusiasm expressing itself all the more boisterously as for so
long a time their fervid aspirations had been kept under restraint.
They now gave open demonstration of their joy by making the towns of
Nossa-Senhora-del-Desterro, Laguna, and San Francisco one blaze of
light with their illuminations, and marching through the streets
singing verses in honour of Don Pedro."
But the excitement which had been thus strikingly manifested in the
towns was not shared by the quiet peace-loving dwellers in the rural
districts, to whose breasts political passion was an entire stranger.
And there cannot be a doubt that, if Portugal had been in a position to
enforce her decrees by the despatch of a fleet, the province would have
been easily reconquered.
The -Coquille- set sail again on the 30th October. When to the east of
Rio de la Plata she was caught in one of those formidable gales, there
called -pampero-, but had the good fortune to weather it without
sustaining any damage.
While in this part of the ocean Duperrey made some interesting
observations on the current of the Plate River. Freycinet had already
established the fact of its flowing at the rate of two miles and a half
an hour, at a distance of a hundred leagues to the east of Monte Video.
It was reserved to the commander of the -Coquille- to ascertain that
the current is sensibly felt at a much greater distance; he proved
moreover that the water of the river resisted by that of the ocean is
forcibly divided into two branches running in the direction of the two
banks of the river at its mouth; and finally he accounts for the
comparative shallowness of the sea down to the shores of the Magellan
Strait by the immense residuum of earth held in suspension by the
waters of the La Plata and deposited daily along the coast of South
America.
Before entering Berkeley Sound the -Coquille-, driven by a favourable
breeze, passed immense shoals of whales and dolphins, flocks of gulls
and numerous flying fish, the ordinary tenants of those tempestuous
regions. The Falkland Isles were reached, and Duperrey with a few of
his fellow-travellers felt a lively pleasure at revisiting the land
which had been to them a place of refuge for three months after their
shipwreck in the -Uranie-. They paid a visit to the spot where the camp
had been pitched. The remains of the corvette were almost entirely
imbedded in sand, and what was visible of it bore marks of the
appropriations which had been made by the whalers who had followed them
in that place. On all sides were scattered miscellaneous fragments,
carronades with the knobs broken off, pieces of the rigging, tattered
clothes, shreds of sails, unrecognizable rags, mingled with the bones
of the animals which the castaways had killed for food. "This scene of
our recent calamity," Duperrey observes, "wore an aspect of desolation
which was rendered still gloomier by the barrenness of the land and the
dark rainy weather prevailing at the time of our visit. Nevertheless,
it had for us an inexplicable sort of attraction and left a melancholy
impression on our minds, which was not effaced till long after we had
left the Falkland Islands well behind us."
[Illustration: The wreck of the -Uranie-.]
The stay of Duperrey at the Falklands was prolonged to the 17th
December. He took up his residence in the midst of the ruins of the
settlement founded by Bougainville, in order to execute certain repairs
which the condition of his vessel required. The crew provided
themselves by fishing and hunting with an ample supply of food;
everything necessary was found in abundance, except fruit and
vegetables; and having laid in abundant stores, all prepared to
confront the dangers of the passage round Cape Horn.
At first the -Coquille- had to struggle against strong winds from the
south-west and violent currents; these were succeeded by squalls and
hazy weather until the island of Mocha was reached on the 19th January,
1823. Of this island a brief mention has already been made. Duperrey
places it in 38 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds S. lat., and 76 degrees
21 minutes 55 seconds W. long., and reckons it to be about twenty-four
miles in circumference. Consisting of a chain of mountains of moderate
elevation, sloping down towards the sea, it was the rendezvous of the
early explorers of the Pacific. It furnished the ships touching there,
now a merchantman, now a pirate, with horses and with wild pigs, the
flesh of which had a well-known reputation for delicacy of flavour.
Here was also a good supply of pure fresh water, as well as of some
European fruits, such as apples, peaches, and cherries, the growth of
trees planted here by those who first took possession of the island. In
1823, however, these resources had all but disappeared, through the
wasteful practices of improvident whalers. At no great distance might
be seen the two round eminences which mark the mouth of the river
Bio-Bio, the small island of Quebra-Ollas, and that of Quiriquina, and,
these passed, the Bay of Conception opened to view, where was a
solitary English whaler about to double the Cape, to which was
entrusted the correspondence for home, as well as the notes of the work
that had already been accomplished.
On the day after the arrival of the -Coquille-, as soon as the morning
sun had lit up the bay, the melancholy and desolate appearance of the
place, which had taken every one by surprise on the previous evening,
became still more depressing. The name of the town was Talcahuano; and
the picture it presented was one of houses in ruins and silent streets.
A few wretched canoes, ready to fall to pieces, were on the beach; near
them loitered a few poorly clad fishermen; while in front of the
tumble-down cottages and roofless huts sat women in rags employed in
combing one another's hair. In contrast with this human squalor, the
surrounding hills and woods, the gardens and the orchards, were clothed
in the most splendid foliage; on every side flowers displayed their
gorgeous colours, and fruits proclaimed their ripeness in tints of
gold.
Overhead a glowing sun, a sky without a cloud, completed the bitter
irony of the spectacle. All this ruin, desolation, and wretchedness
were the outward and visible signs of a series of revolutions. At St.
Catherine the French travellers had been witnesses of the declaration
of Brazilian independence; on the opposite side of the continent they
were spectators of the downfall of Director O'Higgins. This official
had evaded the summons of the Congress, had sacrificed the interests of
the agricultural community to those of the traders and merchants, by
the imposition of direct taxes and the lowering of customs duties; was
openly accused, as well as his ministers, of peculation; and as the
result of all this malversation the greater part of the population had
risen in revolt. The movement against O'Higgins was led by a General D.
Ramon Freire y Serrano, who gave formal assurances to the explorers
that the political disturbance should be no impediment to the
revictualling of the -Coquille-.
On the 26th January two corvettes arrived at Conception. They brought a
regiment under the command of a French official, Colonel Beauchef, who
came to assist General Freire. The regiment, which had been organized
by the exertions of Colonel Beauchef, was in point of steadiness,
discipline, and knowledge of drill, one of the smartest in the Chilian
army.
On the 2nd February the officers of the -Coquille- proceeded to
Conception, to pay a visit to General Freire. The nearer they
approached the city the more fields were lying waste, the more ruined
houses were seen, the fewer people were visible, while their clothing
had almost reached the vanishing-point. At the entrance of the town
itself stood a mast, with the head of a notorious bandit affixed to the
top, one Benavidez, a ferocious savage, more wild beast than man, whose
name was long execrated in Chili for the horrible atrocities he had
committed.
The interior of the town was found as desolate in appearance as the
approach to it. Having been set fire to by each party that had
successively been victorious, Conception was nothing more than a heap
of ruins, amongst which loitered a little remnant of scantily clothed
inhabitants, the wretched residuum of a once flourishing population.
Grass was growing in the streets, the bishop's palace and the cathedral
were the only buildings still standing, and these, roofless and gutted,
would not be able much longer to resist the dilapidating influence of
the climate.
General Freire, before placing himself in opposition to O'Higgins, had
arranged a peace with the Araucanians, an indigenous tribe
distinguished for their bravery, who had not only maintained their own
independence but were always ready, when opportunity offered, to
encroach on the Spanish territory. Some of these natives were employed
as auxiliary troops in the Chilian army. Duperrey saw them, and, having
obtained from General Freire and Colonel Beauchef trustworthy
information, has given a not very flattering description of them, of
which the substance shall be here given.
The Araucanians are of an ordinary stature, in complexion
copper-coloured, with small, black, vivacious eyes, a rather flat nose,
and thick lips; the result of which is an expression of brutal
ferocity. Divided into tribes, each one jealous of another, all
animated by an unbridled lust of plunder, and ever on the move, their
lives are spent in perpetual warfare. The mounted Araucanian is armed
with a long lance, a long cutlass, sabre-shaped, called a
"-Machete-,"[5] and the lasso, in the use of which they are extremely
expert, while the horse he rides is usually swift.
[Footnote 5: This is a weapon shorter than a sword and longer than a
dagger.---Trans.-]
"Sometimes they are known," says Duperrey, "to receive under their
protection vanquished enemies and become their defenders; but the
motive prompting them to this seemingly generous conduct is always one
of special vindictiveness; the fact being that their real object is the
total extermination of some tribe allied with the opposite party. Among
themselves hatred is the ruling passion; it is the only enduring bond
of fidelity. All display undoubted courage, spirit, recklessness,
implacability towards their enemies, whom they massacre with a shocking
insensibility. Haughty in manner and revengeful in disposition, they
treat all strangers with unqualified suspicion, but they are hospitable
and generous to all whom they take as friends. All their passions are
easily excited, but they are inordinately sensitive with regard to
their liberty and their rights, which they are ever ready to defend
sword in hand. Never forgetting an injury, they know not how to
forgive; nothing less than the life-blood of their enemies can quench
their thirst for vengeance."
Duperrey pledges himself to the truth of the picture which he has here
drawn of these savage children of the Andes, who at least deserve the
credit of having from the sixteenth century to the present day managed
to preserve their independence against the attacks of all invaders.
After the departure of General Freire, and the troops he led away with
him, Duperrey took advantage of the opportunity to get his vessel
provisioned as quickly as possible. The water and the biscuits were
soon on board; but longer time was necessary to procure supplies of
coal, which, however, was to be got without any other expense save that
of paying the muleteers, who transported it to the beach from a mine
scarcely beneath the level of the earth, where it was to be picked up
for nothing.
Although the events happening at Conception during the detention there
of the -Coquille- were far from being cheerful, the prevailing
depression could not hold out against the traditional festivities of
the Carnival. Dinners, receptions, and balls recommenced, and the
departure of the troops made itself felt only in the paucity of
cavaliers. The French officers, in acknowledgment of the hospitable
welcome offered to them, gave two balls at Talcahuano, and several
families came from Conception for the sole purpose of being present at
them.
Unfortunately, Duperrey's narrative breaks off at the date of his
quitting Chili, and there is no longer any official record from which
to gather the details of a voyage so interesting and successful. Far
from being able to trace step by step from original documents the
course of the expedition, as has been done in the case of other
travellers, we are obliged in our turn to epitomize other epitomes now
lying before us. It is an unpleasing task; as little agreeable to the
reader as it is difficult for the writer, who, while bound to respect
facts, is no longer able to enliven his narrative with personal
observations, and the generally lively stories of the travellers
themselves. However, some few of the letters of the navigator to the
Minister of Marine have been published, from which have been extracted
the following details.
On the 15th February, 1823, the -Coquille- set sail from Conception for
Payta, the place where, in 1595, Alvarez de Mendana and Fernandez de
Quiros took ship on the voyage of discovery that has made their names
famous; but after a fortnight's sail the corvette was becalmed in the
vicinity of the island of Laurenzo, and Duperrey resolved to put in at
Callao to obtain fresh provisions. It need not be said that Callao is
the port of Lima; so the officers could not lose the opportunity of
paying a visit to the capital of Peru. They were not fortunate in the
time of their visit. The ladies were away for sea-bathing at
Miraflores, and the men of most distinction in the place had gone with
them. The travellers were thus compelled to rest content with an
inspection of the chief residences and public buildings of the city,
returning to Callao on the 4th March. On the 9th of the same month the
-Coquille- anchored at Payta.
The situation of this place between the terrestrial and magnetic
equators was most favourable for conducting observations on the
variations of the magnetic needle. The naturalists also made excursions
to the desert of Pierra, where they collected specimens of petrified
shells imbedded in a tertiary stratum precisely similar to that in the
suburbs of Paris. As soon as all the sources of scientific interest at
Payta had been exhausted the -Coquille- resumed her voyage, setting
sail for Otaheite. During the sail thither a circumstance occurred
which might have materially delayed the progress of the expedition, if
not have led to its total destruction. On the night of the 22nd April,
the -Coquille- being in the waters of the Dangerous Archipelago, the
officer of the watch all at once heard the sound of breakers dashing
over reefs. He immediately made the ship lie to, and at daybreak the
peril which had been escaped became manifest. At the distance of barely
a mile and a half from the corvette lay a low island, well wooded, and
fringed with rocks along its entire extent. A few people lived on it,
some of whom approached the vessel in a canoe, but none of them would
venture on board. Duperrey had to give up all thoughts of visiting the
island, which received the name of Clermont-Tonnerre. On all sides the
waves broke violently on the rocks, and he could do no more than coast
it from end to end at a little distance.
The next and following days some small islands of no note were
discovered, to which were given the names of Augier, Freycinet, and
Lostanges.
At length, as the sun rose on the 3rd May, the verdant shores and woody
mountains of Otaheite came in sight. Duperrey, like preceding visitors,
could not help noticing the thorough change which had been effected in
the manners and practices of the natives. Not a canoe came alongside
the -Coquille-. It was the hour of Divine worship when the corvette
entered the Bay of Matavai, and the missionaries had collected the
whole population of the island, to the number of seven thousand, inside
the principal church of Papahoa to discuss the articles of a new code
of laws. The Otaheitan orators, it seems, would not yield the palm to
those of Europe. There were not a few of them gifted with the valuable
talent of being able to talk for several hours without saying anything,
and to make an end of the most promising undertakings with the flowers
of their rhetoric. A description of one of these meetings is given by
D'Urville.
"M. Lejeune, the draughtsman of the expedition, went by himself to be
present at the meeting held the next day, when certain political
questions were submitted to the popular assembly. It lasted for several
hours, during which the chiefs took it in turn to speak. The most
brilliant speaker of the gathering was a chief called Tati. The chief
point of discussion was the imposition of an annual poll-tax at the
rate of five measures of oil per man. Then came a question as to the
taxes which were to be levied, whether they should be on behalf of the
king, or on behalf of the missionaries. After some time, we arrived at
the conclusion that the first question had been answered in the
affirmative; but that the second, the one relating to the missionaries,
had been postponed by themselves from a forecast of its probable
failure. About four thousand persons were present at this kind of
national congress."
Two months before, Otaheite had renounced the English flag, in order to
adopt one of its own, but that pacific revolution in no wise diminished
the confidence which the people placed in their missionaries. The
latter received the French travellers in a friendly manner, and
supplied them at the usual prices with the stores of which they stood
in need.
But what seemed especially curious in the reforms effected by the
missionaries was the total change in the behaviour of the women. From
being, according to the statements of Cook, Bougainville, and
contemporary explorers, compliant to an unheard of degree, they had
become most modest, reserved, and decently conducted; so that the whole
island wore the air of a convent, a revolution as amusing as it was
unnatural.
From Otaheite the -Coquille- proceeded to the adjacent island of
Borabora, belonging to the same group, where European customs had been
adopted to the same extent; and on the 9th June, steering a westerly
course, made a survey in turn of the islands Salvage, Coa, Santa Cruz,
Bougainville, and Bouka; finally coming to an anchor in the harbour of
Praslin, on the coast of New Ireland, famous for its beautiful
waterfall. "The friendly relations which were established with the
natives there were the means of extending our knowledge of the human
race by the observation of some peculiarities which had not fallen
under the notice of preceding travellers." The sentence just quoted
from an abridged account appearing in the "Annals of Voyages," which
merely excites curiosity without satisfying it, causes us here to
express our regret that the original narrative of the voyage has not
been published in its entirety.
[Illustration: The waterfall of Port Praslin. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
The student Porel de Blossville--the same who afterwards lost his life
with the -Lilloise- in the Polar regions--undertook a journey to the
village of Praslin, in spite of all the means adopted by the savages to
deter him. When there he was shown a kind of temple, where several
ill-shaped, grotesque idols had been set up on a platform surrounded by
walls.
Great pains were taken to prepare a chart of St. George's Channel,
after which Duperrey paid a visit to the islands previously surveyed by
Schouten to the north-east of New Guinea. Three days--the 26th, 27th,
and 28th--were devoted to a survey of them. The explorer, after this,
searched ineffectually for the islands Stephen and De Carteret, and
after comparing his own route with that taken by D'Entrecasteaux in
1792, he came to the conclusion that this group must be identical with
that of Providence, discovered long since by Dampier.
On the 3rd of September the north cape of New Guinea was recognized.
Three days later the -Coquille- entered the narrow and rocky harbour of
Offak on the north-west coast of Waigiou, one of the Papuan islands.
The only navigator who has mentioned this harbour is Forest. Duperrey
therefore felt unusual satisfaction at having explored a corner of the
earth all but untrodden by the foot of the European. It was also an
interesting fact for geographers that the existence of a southern bay,
separated from Offak by a very narrow isthmus, was established.
Two officers, MM. d'Urville and de Blossville, were employed in this
work, which MM. Berard, Lottin, and de Blois de la Calande connected
with that accomplished by Duperrey on the coast during the cruise of
the -Uranie-. This land was found to be particularly rich in vegetable
products, and D'Urville was able there to form the nucleus of a
collection as valuable for the novelty as the beauty of its specimens.
D'Urville and Lesson, full of curiosity to study the inhabitants, who
belonged to the Papuan race, started for the shore immediately after
the corvette arrived at the island in a boat manned with seven sailors.
They had already walked some distance in a deluge of rain, when all at
once they found themselves opposite a cottage built upon piles, and
covered over with leaves of the plane-tree.
Cowering amongst the bushes, at a little distance, was a young female
savage, who seemed to be watching them. A few paces nearer was a heap
of about a dozen cocoa-nuts freshly gathered, placed well in sight,
apparently intended for the refreshment of the visitors. The Frenchmen
came to understand that this was a present offered by the youthful
savage of whom they had caught a glimpse, and proceeded to feast on the
fruits so opportunely placed at their disposal. The native girl, soon
gathering confidence from the quiet behaviour of the strangers, came
forward, crying, "-Bongous!-" (good!), making signs to show that the
cocoa-nuts had been presented by herself. Her delicate attention was
rewarded by the gift of a necklace and earrings.
When D'Urville regained the boat he found a dozen Papuans playing,
eating, and seeming on the best possible terms with the boatmen. "In a
short time," he says, "they had surrounded me, repeating, '-Captain,
bongous-,' and offering various tokens of good will. These people are,
in general, of diminutive stature, their constitution is slight and
feeble; leprosy is a common disease among them; their voice is soft,
their behaviour grave, polite, and even marked with a certain air of
melancholy that is habitually characteristic of them."
[Illustration: Natives of New Guinea. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
Among the antique statues of which the Louvre is full, there is one of
Polyhymnia, which is celebrated above the rest for an expression of
melancholy pensiveness not usually found among the ancients. It is a
singular circumstance that D'Urville should have observed among the
Papuans the very expression of countenance distinguishing this antique
statue. On board the corvette another company of natives were
conducting themselves with a calmness and reserve, offering a marked
contrast to the usual manner of the greater part of the inhabitants of
the lands of Oceania.
The same impression was made on the French travellers during a visit
paid to the rajah of the island, as also during his return visit on
board the -Coquille-. In one of the villages on this southern bay was
observed a kind of temple, in which were to be seen several rudely
carved statues, painted over with various colours, and ornamented with
feathers and matting. It was quite impossible to obtain the slightest
information on the subject of the worship which the natives paid to
these idols.
The -Coquille- set sail again on the 16th September, coasting along the
north side of the islands lying between Een and Yang, and after a brief
stay at Cayeli reached Amboyna, where the remarkably kind reception
given by M. Merkus, the governor of the Molucca Island, afforded the
staff an interval of rest from the continual labours of this
troublesome voyage. The 27th October saw the corvette again on its
course, steering towards Timor and westward of the Turtle and Lucepara
Islands. Duperrey next determined the position of the island of Vulcan;
sighted the islands of Wetter, Baba, Dog, Cambing, and finally,
entering the channel of Ombay, surveyed a large number of points in the
chain of islands stretching from Pantee and Ombay in the direction of
Java. After having made a chart of Java, and an ineffectual search for
the Trial Islands in the place usually assigned to them, Duperrey
steered for New Holland, but through contrary winds was not able to
sail along the western coast of the island. On the 10th January he at
length rounded Van Diemen's Island, and six days after that sighted the
lights of Port Jackson, coming to an anchor off Sydney the following
day.
The governor, Sir Thomas Brisbane, who had received previous intimation
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