Cook did not recognize a single native whom he had met on his first
voyage. He naturally concluded that the natives who in 1770 inhabited
the Sound had been chased out, or had gone elsewhere of their free
will. The number of inhabitants, too, was reduced by a third, the
"pah" was deserted, as well as a number of cabins along the coast.
[Illustration: New Zealand utensils and weapons.]
The two ships being ready to return to sea, Cook gave instructions to
Captain Furneaux. He wished to advance southward between 41 degrees to
46 degrees S. lat. up to 140 degrees west longitude, and if he found
no land, to steer towards Tahiti, which was appointed as the place of
rendezvous. He then proposed to return to New Zealand and survey all
the unknown parts of the sea between that island and Cape Horn.
Towards the end of July, after a few days' hot weather, scurvy again
broke out on board the -Adventure-. The -Resolution- escaped the
scourge, owing to the precautions from which Cook never departed for a
single day, and the example which he himself set of constantly eating
celery and scurvy grass.
On the 1st of July, the two vessels were in S. lat. 25 degrees 1
minute, and 134 degrees 6 minutes W. long., the situation which
Carteret attributed to Pitcairn Island. Cook endeavoured to find it,
but, to his great regret, the illness on board the -Adventure-
shortened his cruise.
He was anxious to verify or rectify the longitude of this island, and
by so doing, that of all the surrounding lands discovered by Carteret,
which had not been confirmed by astronomical observations. But having
no longer any hope of finding an Antarctic continent, he set sail for
the north-west, and soon reconnoitred several of the islands seen by
Bougainville.
"The outlying islands with which the Pacific Ocean abounds between the
tropics," he says, "are on a level with the waves in the low parts,
and raised only a rood or two above them in the others. Their shape is
often circular. In the centre they contain a basin of sea water, and
the depth of water all round is not to be sounded. They produce
little; cocoa-nuts appear to be the best of their productions; yet in
spite of this sterility, and of their small extent, most of them are
inhabited. It is not easy to conceive how these little settlements
were peopled, and it is not less difficult to determine from whence
the highest islands of the Southern Sea drew their inhabitants."
On the 15th of April, Cook reconnoitred Osnaburgh or Mairea Islands,
discovered by Wallis, and set off for Otaiti-Piha, where he intended
to embark as many provisions as possible before reaching Matavai.
"At daybreak," says Forster, "we rejoiced in one of those beautiful
mornings which poets of every country have tried to paint. A light
breeze brought a delicious perfume from the land, and ruffled the
surface of the water. The forest-capped mountains elevated their
majestic heads, over which the rising sun shed his beams. Close to us
we saw a ridge of hills, of gentler ascent, but wooded like the first,
and pleasantly intermixed with green and brown tints; below, a plain
adorned with breadfruit-trees, and a quantity of palms in the
background, overshadowing the delightful groves. All seemed still
asleep. Dawn was but just breaking, and the country was wrapped in
peaceful darkness. Yet we could perceive the houses amid the trees,
and the pirogues on the shore. Half a mile from the beach, the waves
broke over a reach of rocks level with the sea, and nothing could
equal the tranquillity of the interior flow of the harbour. The
day-star shed its lustre on the plain; the natives rose, and by
degrees added life to this charming scene. At the sight of our vessels,
several launched their pirogues in haste, and paddled towards us, as
we were happily watching them. We little thought that we were going to
run into great danger, and that destruction would soon threaten the
vessels and their crews on this fortunate coast."
Skilful the writer, happy the painter, who knew how to find such fresh
and varied colours! This enchanting picture is conveyed in a few words.
One regrets not having accompanied this bold sailor, this scientist
who so well understood Dame Nature! Unfortunately we could not visit
these innocent and peaceable inhabitants in that age of gold to which
our own century offers a painful comparison.
The vessels were half a league from a reef, when the wind fell. In
spite of every effort, the ships were driven upon the rocks, in the
very sight of the much-coveted land, when a clever manoeuvre of the
captain's, ably seconded by the tide and the land breeze, came to
their rescue. They had, however, received some injuries, and the
-Adventure- lost three anchors.
The ships were surrounded by a crowd of pirogues, and every variety of
fruit was exchanged for glass beads. Still the natives offered neither
fowls nor pigs. Those that were seen near the cabins belonged to the
king, and they had no right to sell them. Several of the Tahitans
begged for news of Banks and the companions of Cook's earlier voyage.
Some also inquired for news of Tupia, but they spoke no more of him
when they had learned the circumstances of his death.
Next day, the two vessels anchored in the roadstead of Otaiti-Piha,
two cable-lengths from the shore, and were besieged by visitors and
traffickers.
Some profited by the crush to throw the merchandize they had already
sold into their canoes, that they might sell it over again. To put a
stop to this trick, Cook drove the perpetrators away, after having
flogged them, a punishment which they accepted without complaining.
In the afternoon the two captains landed, to examine the watering
place, which they found very convenient. During their absence a crowd
of natives came on board, and amply confirmed the unenviable
reputation they had acquired in the earlier records of Bougainville
and Cook.
"One of the officers, standing on the quarter-deck," says the
narrative, "desiring to give a child six years old, in one of the
pirogues, some glass beads, let them fall into the sea. The child at
once jumped into the water and dived until he recovered them. To
reward his skill, he threw other trifles to him, a generosity which
tempted a crowd of men and women, who amused us by their surprising
agility in the waves. Their easy attitudes in the water, and the
suppleness of their limbs, made them like amphibious animals."
But the Tahitans who came on board were detected in several acts of
theft. One of them, who remained for the greater part of the day in
Cook's bedroom, hastened to jump into the sea, and the captain,
enraged by his conduct, had shots fired over his head. A boat, sent to
take the pirogues of the robbers, was assailed with stones until it
reached the shore, and it was only after a discharge of shot that the
assailants determined to retreat. These hostilities led to no result,
the natives came on board as if nothing had occurred.
Cook learned from them that the greater part of his old friends from
the neighbourhood of Matavai had fallen in a battle between the
inhabitants of the two peninsulas.
The officers made many excursions on land. Forster, animated by an
ardour for botanical research, missed none of them. In one of these he
witnessed the method employed by the Tahitans in preparing their
stuffs.
"We had gone but a few paces," he says, "when a noise from the forest
struck upon our ears. Following the sounds, we reached a little tent,
where five or six women sitting upon either side of a large square
piece of wood, were thrashing the fibrous bark of mulberry-trees to
fabricate their stuffs. For this purpose they used a bit of square
wood, with long parallel grooves more or less hollowed, according to
the different sides. They paused a moment to enable us to examine the
bark, the hammer, and the beam which served them for a table.
"They also showed us a kind of gum-water in a large cocoa-nut which
they used from time to time to join the various bits of bark together.
"This glue, which appears to us to be obtained from the 'Hibiscus
Esculentus,' is absolutely needful in the fabrication of the stuff,
which being occasionally two or three yards wide and fifty long, are
composed of small pieces of the bark. The women employed at this work
wore very old and ragged clothes and their hands were hard and
knotted."
The same day Forster saw a man with very long nails, of which he was
immensely proud, as proving that he was not obliged to work for his
bread. In Annam, in China and other countries, this singular and
ridiculous fashion is common. A single finger is kept with a shorter
nail, being the one used to scratch with, a very frequent occupation
in the extreme East.
In another of his walks Forster saw a native, who passed his days in
being fed by his wives, quietly lying upon a carpet of thick shrubs.
This melancholy person, who fattened without rendering any service to
society, recalled Sir John Mandeville's anger at seeing "such a
glutton who passed his days without distinguishing himself by any
feats of arms, and who lived in pleasure, as a pig which one fattens
in a sty."
[Illustration: "Who passed his days in being fed by his wives."]
On the 22nd of August, Cook having learned that King Waheatua was in
the neighbourhood, and being desirous of seeing him, landed with
Captain Furneaux, the Forsters, and several natives. He met him
advancing towards him with a numerous suite, and recognized him at
once as he had seen him several times in 1769.
This king was then a child, and was called Te Arée, but he had changed
his name at the death of his father Waheatua. He made the captain sit
down on his stool, and inquired solicitously for the various
Englishmen he had known on the former voyage. Cook, after the usual
compliments, presented him with a shirt, a hatchet, some nails, and
other trifles. But of all his presents, that which appeared most
precious to him, and which excited most cries of admiration from his
followers, was a tuft of red feathers mounted upon iron wire.
Waheatua, king of Little Tahiti, was about seventeen or eighteen years
of age. Tall and well made, his appearance would have been majestic,
but for a look of fear and distrust.
He was surrounded by several chiefs and noble personages, remarkable
for their height, and one of whom, tattooed in a peculiar manner, was
enormously stout. The king, who showed him great deference, consulted
him every moment. Cook then learned that a Spanish vessel had put into
Tahiti a few months previously, and he afterwards ascertained that it
was that of Domingo Buenechea, which came from Callao.
Whilst Eteé, the king's confidant, conversed with some officers upon
religious subjects, and asked the English if they had a god, Waheatua
amused himself with the captain's watch. Astonished at the noise it
made, and venting his surprise in the words, "It speaks!" he inquired
of what use it was.
It was explained to him that it told the time, and in that respect
resembled the sun. Waheatua gave it the name of the "little sun," to
show that he understood the explanation.
The vessels sailed on the morning of the 24th, and were followed for a
long time by numbers of pirogues bearing cocoa-nuts and fruit. Rather
than lose this opportunity of obtaining European commodities, the
natives parted with their wares very cheaply; a dozen cocoa-nuts could
be obtained for one glass bead.
The abundant fresh provisions soon restored the health of all on board
the vessels, and most of the sailors, who on reaching Osnaburgh could
scarcely walk, could get about well when they left.
The -Resolution- and -Adventure- reached Matavai Bay on the 26th. A
crowd of Tahitians soon invaded the deck. Most of them were known to
the captain, and Lieutenant Pickersgill, who had accompanied Wallis in
1767, and Cook two years later, received a warm welcome from them.
Cook had tents erected for the sick, the sail-menders, and the coopers,
and then left with Captain Furneaux and the two Forsters for Oparreé.
The boat which took them soon passed a "moraï" of stones, and a
cemetery known as the "morai of Tootahah." When Cook called it by this
name, one of the natives who accompanied him interrupted him by saying
that since Tootahah's death it was called O Too.
"A fine lesson for princes, who thus in their lives are reminded that
they are mortal, and that after their death the earth which contains
their corpse will not be their own. The chief and his wife removed the
upper garments from their shoulders as they passed, a mark of respect
which natives of all ranks exhibit before a 'morai,' as they appear to
attach a particular idea of sanctity to these places."
Cook soon gained admittance to the presence of King O-Too. After many
compliments he offered him all that he thought he had which would
please him, because he appreciated the advantage this man's friendship
would be to him, for his every word showed timidity of disposition.
Tall and well made, the king was about thirty years old. He inquired
after Tupia and Cook's companions, although he had seen none of them.
Many presents were distributed to those of his cortége who appeared
the most influential.
[Illustration: O-Too, King of Otaheite. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
"The women sent their servants to find large pieces of their finest
stuffs, tinted scarlet, rose, and straw colour, and perfumed with the
most odoriferous oil. They placed them over our outer clothing, and so
loaded us that we could scarcely move."
O-Too paid the captain a visit on the morrow. He only came on board
after Cook had been enveloped in a considerable quantity of the most
costly native stuff, and he dared not go below until his brother had
first done so. The king and his suite were seated for breakfast, at
which the natives went into ecstasies over the usefulness of chairs.
O-Too would not taste anything, but his companions were far from
following his example. He greatly admired a beautiful spaniel
belonging to Forster and expressed a wish to possess it. It was at
once given to him, and he had it carried behind him by one of his
lords-in-waiting. After breakfast the captain himself conducted O-Too
to his sloop, and Captain Furneaux gave him a pair of goats. Upon an
excursion to the interior, Mr. Pickersgill met the aged Oberea, who
appeared to have lost all her honours, and she was so poor that it was
impossible for her to give a present to her friends.
When Cook left on the 1st of September, a young Tahitian, named Poreo,
begged to accompany him. The captain consented, hoping that he might
prove useful. The moment he lost sight of land poor Poreo could not
restrain his tears. The officers comforted him by promising to be like
fathers to him.
Cook directed his course to Huaheine Island, which was only
twenty-five leagues distant, and anchored there at three in the
morning. The natives brought quantities of large fowls, which were the
more acceptable as it had been impossible to obtain any at Tahiti.
Pigs, dogs, and fruit were in the market, and were exchanged for
hatchets, nails, and glass-ware.
This island, like Tahiti, showed traces of earlier volcanic eruptions,
and the summit of one of its hills resembled a crater.
The appearance of the country is similar to that of Tahiti, but is on
a smaller scale, for Huaheine is only seven or eight leagues in
circumference.
Cook went to see his old friend Orea. The king, dispensing with all
ceremony, threw himself on the captain's neck, and shed tears of joy;
then he presented him to his friends, to whom the captain gave
presents.
The king offered Cook all his most precious possessions, for he looked
upon this man as a father. Orea promised to supply the English with
all they needed and most loyally kept his word. However, on the
morning of the 6th the sailors who presided over the traffic were
insulted by a native covered with red, in war dress, and holding a
club, who threatened every one. Cook, landing at this moment, threw
himself on the native, struggled with him and finally possessed
himself of his weapon, which he broke.
The same day another incident occurred. Sparrman had imprudently
penetrated to the interior of the island to make botanical researches.
Some natives, taking advantage of the moment when he was examining a
plant, snatched a dagger, which was the only weapon he carried, from
his belt, gave him a blow on the head, and rushing upon him, tore some
of his clothes. Sparrman, however, managed to rise and run towards the
shore, but, hampered by the bushes and briars, he was captured by the
natives, who cut his hands to possess themselves of his shirt, the
sleeves of which were buttoned, until he tore the wristbands with his
teeth. Others of the natives, seeing him naked and half dead, gave him
their clothes, and conducted him to the market-place, where there was
a crowd assembled. When Sparrman appeared in this plight, they all
took flight, without waiting to be told. Cook at first thought they
intended to commit a theft. Undeceived by the appearance of the
naturalist, he recalled the other natives, assured them that he would
not revenge it upon the innocent, and carried his complaint straight
to Orea. The latter, miserable and furious at what had occurred,
loaded his people with vehement reproaches, and promised to do all in
his power to find out the robbers and the stolen things.
In spite of the prayers of the natives, the king embarked in the
captain's vessel, and entered upon a search for the culprits with him.
The latter had removed their clothes, and for a while it was
impossible to recognize them. Orea therefore accompanied Cook on board,
dined with him, and on his return to land was received by his people,
who had not expected his return, with lively expressions of joy.
"One of the most agreeable reflections suggested by this voyage," says
Forster, "is that instead of finding the inhabitants of this island
plunged in voluptuousness, as had been falsely affirmed by earlier
navigators, we remarked the most humane and delicate sentiments among
them. There are vicious characters in every society, but we could
count fifty more sinners in England or any other civilized country
than in these islands."
As the vessels were putting off, Orea came to announce that the
robbers were taken, and to invite Cook to land and assist in their
punishment. It was impossible. The king accompanied Cook half a league
on his way, and left him with friendly farewells.
This stay in port had been very productive. The two vessels brought
away more than three hundred pigs, and quantities of fowls and fruits.
Probably they would not have procured much more, even had their stay
been prolonged.
Captain Furneaux had agreed to take a young man named Omai on board.
His conduct and intelligence gave a favourable idea of the inhabitants
of the Society Islands. Upon his arrival in England this Tahitian was
presented to the king by Earl Sandwich, first lord of the Admiralty.
At the same time he found protectors and friends in Banks and Solander.
They arranged a friendly reception for him among the first families of
Great Britain. He lived two years in this country, and upon Cook's
third voyage he accompanied him, and returned to his native land.
The captain afterwards visited Ulietea, where the natives gave him the
most appreciative welcome. They inquired with interest about Tupia and
the English they had seen in the -Endeavour-. King Oreo hastened to
renew his acquaintance with the captain, and gave him all the
provisions his island produced. During their stay, Poreo, who had
embarked in the -Resolution-, landed with a young Tahitan girl, who
had enchanted him, and would not return on board. He was replaced by a
young man of seventeen or eighteen years of age, a native of Bolabola,
named OEdidi, who announced his wish to go to England. The grief
evinced by this native on leaving his native land spoke well for his
good heart.
The vessels, laden with more than four hundred pigs, and also with
fowls, and fruit, left the Society Islands on the 17th of September,
and steered for the west. Six days later, one of the Harvey Islands
was sighted, and on the 1st of October anchor was cast off Eoa, called
Middelbourg Island by Tasman and Cook.
The welcome by the natives was cordial. A chief named Tai-One came on
board, touched the captain's nose with a pinch of pepper, and sat down
without speaking. The alliance was concluded and ratified by the gift
of a few trifles.
Tai-One guided the English into the interior. The new comers were
surrounded by a dense crowd of natives, offering stuffs and mats in
exchange for nails as long as the walk lasted. The natives often even
carried their liberality so far as to decline any return for these
presents. Tai-One conducted his new friends to his dwelling, agreeably
situated in a beautiful valley, in the shade of some "-sadhecks-." He
served them with a liquor extracted from the juice of the "-eava-,"
the use of which is common to the Polynesian islanders. It was
prepared in the following manner:--Pieces of a root, a species of
pepper, were first chewed, and then placed in a large wooden vase,
over which water was poured. As soon as this liquor was drinkable, the
natives poured it out into cups made of green leaves, shaped into form,
and holding about half a pint. Cook was the only one who tasted it.
The method of preparing the liquor had quenched the thirst of his
companions, but the natives were not fastidious, and the vase was soon
emptied.
The English afterwards visited several plantations or gardens,
separated by intertwined hedges, which were connected by doors formed
of planks and hung upon hinges. The perfection of culture, and the
fully developed instinct of property, showed a degree of civilization
superior to that of Tahiti.
In spite of the reception he met with, Cook, who could procure neither
pigs nor fowls, left this island to reach that of Amsterdam, called
Tonga Tabou by the natives. Here he hoped to find the provisions he
needed. The vessels soon anchored in the roadstead of Van Dieman, in
eighteen fathoms of water, a cable's length from the breakers which
border the shore. The natives were friendly, and brought stuffs, mats,
implements, arms, ornaments, and soon afterwards pigs and fowls.
OEdidi bought some red feathers of them with much delight, declaring
they would have a high value at Tahiti. Cook landed with a native
named Attago, who had attached himself to him at once. During his
excursion, he remarked a temple similar to a "morai," and which was
called by the generic name of Faitoka. Raised upon an artificial butt,
sixteen or eighteen feet from the ground, the temple was in an oblong
form, and was reached by two stone staircases. Built like the homes of
the natives, with posts and joists, it was covered with palm leaves.
Two wooden images coarsely carved, two feet in length, occupied the
corners.
"As I did not wish to offend either them or their gods," says the
captain, "I dared not touch them, but I inquired of Attago if these
were 'Eatuas,' or gods. I do not know if he understood me, but he
instantly handled them, and turned them over as roughly as if he had
merely touched a bit of wood, which convinced me that they did not
represent a divine being."
A few thefts were perpetrated, but they did not interrupt cordiality,
and a quantity of provisions were procured. Before leaving, the
captain had an interview with a person who was treated with
extraordinary respect, to whom all the natives accorded the rank of
king. Cook says,--
"I found him seated, with a gravity of deportment so stupid and so
dull, that in spite of all they had told me, I took him for an idiot,
whom the people adored from superstitious motives. I saluted him, and
talked to him, but he made no reply, and paid no attention to me. I
was about to leave him, when a native made me understand that it was
without doubt the king. I offered him a shirt, a hatchet, a piece of
red stuff, a looking-glass, some nails, medals, and glass-ware. He
received them, or rather allowed them to be placed upon his person or
beside him, losing nothing of his gravity, and speaking no word, not
even moving his head to the right or left."
However, next day, this chief sent baskets of bananas and a roast pig,
saying that it was a present from the "ariki" of the island to the
"ariki" of the ship.
Cook called this archipelago the Friendly Islands. They had formerly
received various names from Schouten and Tasman, as, Cocoa-nut Islands,
Traitor Islands, Hope Islands, and Horn Islands.
Cook not having been able to obtain fresh water, was obliged to leave
Tonga sooner than he wished. He found time, however, to make a few
observations as to the productions of the country, and the manners of
the natives. We will mention the most striking.
Nature had showered its treasures with a liberal hand upon Tonga and
Eoa Islands. Cocoa-nuts, palm-trees, breadfruit-trees, yams, and
sugar-canes are most plentiful there. As for edible animals, pigs and
fowls alone were met with, but dogs if not existing there, are known
by name. The most delicate fish abounds on the coast. Of much the same
form as Europeans, and equally white, the inhabitants of these islands
are well-proportioned and of pleasant features. Their hair is
originally black, but they are in the habit of tinting it with powder,
so that white, red, and blue hair abounds, which produces a singular
effect. Tattooing is a universal practice. Their clothes are very
simple, consisting of one piece of stuff, rolled round the waist, and
falling to the knees. The women, who at Tonga, as everywhere else, are
more coquettish than men, make aprons of cocoa-nut fibres, which they
ornament with shells, and bits of coloured stuffs and feathers.
The natives have some singular customs, which the English had not
noticed before. Thus they put everything that is given them on their
heads, and conclude a bargain with this practice. When a friend or
relation dies, they slash their limbs, and even some of their fingers.
Their dwellings are not collected in villages, but are separate and
dispersed among the plantations. Built in the same style as those of
the Society Isles, they differ from them only in being raised higher
above the ground.
The -Adventure- and -Resolution- sailed on the 7th of October, and the
following day reconnoitred Pylstart Island, discovered by Tasman. On
the 21st, anchor was cast in Hawke's Bay, New Zealand. Cook landed a
certain number of animals, which he wished to acclimatize, and set
sail again to enter Queen Charlotte's Sound, but being caught in a
great gale, he was separated from the -Adventure-, and did not meet
her again until he reached England.
On the 5th of November the captain repaired the damages of his vessel,
and before undertaking a new voyage in the southern seas, he wished to
ascertain the extent and quality of his provisions. He reckoned that
four thousand five hundred pounds of biscuits had been entirely
spoiled, and that more than three thousand pounds were in scarcely
better condition. During his stay here he obtained a new and still
more convincing proof of the cannibalism of the natives of New Zealand.
An officer had bought the head of a young man, who had been killed and
eaten, and some natives seeing it, wished very much for a piece, Cook
gave it up to them, and the avidity with which they threw themselves
upon this revolting food, proved the pleasure that these cannibals
took in eating food which they have difficulty in procuring.
The -Resolution- left New Zealand on the 26th of November, and entered
the glacial regions which she had already traversed; but the
circumstances attending her second voyage were distressing. The crew,
though in good health, were overcome by fatigue, and less capable of
resisting illness, the more so that they had no fresh food on board.
The -Resolution- had lost her consort, and the world was convinced
that no Antarctic continent existed. It was, so to say, a "platonic"
voyage. It was necessary to prove beyond the possibility of doubt that
no new land of any importance was to be discovered in these latitudes.
The first ice was encountered on the 12th of December, and farther to
the south than in the preceding year. From this date, the usual
incidents of navigation in these latitudes were repeated day by day.
OEdidi was quite astonished by the "white rain," as he called the snow
which fell on his hand, but the sight of the first ice was a still
greater marvel to him; he called it "white earth."
"His mind had been struck by a phenomenon in the torrid zone," says
the narrative. "As long as the ships remained in these latitudes, we
had had scarcely any night, and he had seen that we could write at
midnight by the light of the sun. OEdidi could scarcely believe his
eyes, and he assured us that his fellow countrymen would put him down
as a liar, if he talked to them of petrified rain, and of perpetual
day."
The young Tahitan had time to become accustomed to this phenomenon,
for the ship advanced as far as 76 degrees south, amidst floating ice.
Then, convinced that if a continent existed the ice made access to it
impossible, Cook determined to proceed to the North.
General dissatisfaction prevailed; no one on board was free from
severe colds, or from an attack of scurvy. The captain himself was
seriously affected by bilious sickness, which kept him in bed. For
eight days his life was in danger, and his recovery was likely to be
equally painful and slow. The same route was followed until the 11th
of March, when with the rising of the sun the joyful cry of "Land!
land!" arose.
It was the Easter Island, of Roggewein's Davis' Land. Upon nearing it,
the navigators were struck with astonishment, as the Dutch had been,
by the enormous statues erected on the shore. Cook says that the
latitude of Easter Island answers very closely to that marked in
Roggewein's MS. journal, and its longitude is only one degree wrong.
The shore, composed of black broken rock of ferruginous appearance,
shows traces of violent subterranean eruption. A few scattered
plantations were perceived in the centre of the island.
Singular coincidence! The first word spoken by the natives as the
strangers approached the shore, was to ask in the Tahitan tongue for a
rope. This again suggested that the origin of both races was the same.
Like the Tahitans they were tattooed, and clothed in stuffs similar to
those of the Society Islands.
"The action of the sun on their heads," says the narrative, "has
forced them to find different means for protecting themselves. The
greater number of the men wear a circular head-covering about two
inches thick, twisted with grass from one side to the other, and
covered with a great quantity of those long, black feathers which
adorn the frigate bird. Others have enormous hats of brown gulls'
feathers, almost as large as the wigs of European lawyers, and many
have a simple wooden hoop, surrounded with white gulls' feathers,
which wave in the air. The women wear large and wide hats of neat
plaits, which come to a point in front, with a ridge along the top,
and two great lobes on either side.
"The country was a picture of desolation. It was surveyed by two
detachments, and was found to be covered with black and porous stones.
The entire vegetation which could thrive on this mass of lava
consisted of two or three kinds of rugose grass, which grew on the
rocks, scanty bushes, especially the paper-mulberry, the 'hibiscus,'
and the mimosa, and some plantains. Close to the landing-place is a
perpendicular wall, constructed of square stones, compactly and
durably joined in accordance with art rules, and fitting in a style of
durability. Further on, in the centre of a well-paved area, a monolith
is erected, representing a half-naked human figure, some twenty[1]
feet high, and more than five wide, very roughly hewn. The head is
badly designed, the eyes, nose, and mouth scarcely indicated, but the
ears are very long, as is the fashion in this country, and are better
finished than the rest."
[Footnote 1: In the earlier editions of the French translation of
Cook's Voyages (Paris, 1878, seven 4to vols.), the height of this
statue is given as two feet, evidently by a typographical error. We
now correct this mistake, which has been repeated in all subsequent
editions.]
These monuments, which are numerous, do not appear to have been
erected or hewn by the race the English found, or this race had
degenerated; for these natives paid no respect to the statues,
although they treated them with a certain veneration, and objected to
any one's walking on the pavement near them.
It was not only on the sea-shore that these enormous sentinels were
seen. Between the mountains, in the fissures of rocks, others existed,
some erect or fallen to earth through some convulsion, others still
imperfectly separated from the block from which they were being cut.
What sudden catastrophe stopped the works? What do these monoliths
represent? To what distant period do these testimonies of the industry
of a race long disappeared, or the recollection of whom has perished,
seem to point? This problem must remain for ever insoluble.
[Illustration: Monuments in Easter Island. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
Traffic proceeded easily. It was only necessary to repress the
marvellous dexterity of the natives in emptying pockets. The few
possessions which had been obtained had been very useful, though the
want of drinkable water prevented Cook remaining long in Easter Island.
He directed his course to the archipelago of the Marquesas of Mendana,
which had not been visited since 1595. But his vessel had no sooner
been put to sea than he was again attacked by the bilious fever, from
which he had suffered so severely. The sufferers from scurvy relapsed,
and all who had undertaken long walks across Easter Island had their
faces burnt by the sun.
[Illustration: Natives of Easter Island. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
On the 7th of April, 1774, Cook sighted the Marquesas group, after
seeking them in vain for five consecutive days in the different
positions assigned to them by geographers. Anchor was cast at Tao Wati,
the Santa Cristina of Mendana.
The -Resolution- was soon surrounded by pirogues, the foremost of
which was full of stones, every man on board having a sling round his
hand. However, friendly relations were formed, followed by barter.
"These natives," says Forster, "are well made, with handsome faces,
yellowish or tanned complexions, and marks all over their bodies,
which gives them an almost black appearance. The valleys of our
harbour were filled with trees, and tallied in every particular with
the description given by the Spaniards. We saw fire across the forests
several times, very far from the shore, and concluded that the country
was well populated."
[Illustration: Natives of the Marquesas.]
The difficulty of procuring food decided Cook upon a hasty departure.
But he had time to collect some interesting facts about the people,
whom he considered the handsomest in Oceania. These natives appear to
surpass all others in the regularity of their features. The
resemblance in their speech, however, to that of the Tahitans, appears
to point to a common origin.
The Marquesas are five in number, Magdalena, San Pedro, Dominica,
Santa Cristina, and Hood Island, the latter so called after the
volunteer who first discovered it. Santa Cristina is divided by a
chain of mountains of considerable elevation, to which the hills that
rise from the sea lead. Deep, narrow, and fertile valleys, filled with
fruit-trees, and watered by streams of excellent water, intersect this
mountain isle. Port Madre de Dios, called by Cook Resolution Harbour,
is about the centre of the eastern coast of Santa Cristina. It
contains two sandy creeks, into which two streams flow.
II.
A fresh visit to Tahiti and the Friendly Islands--Exploration of New
Hebrides--Discovery of New Caledonia and Pine Island--Stay in Queen
Charlotte's Sound--South Georgia--Accident to the -Adventure-.
After leaving these islands, on the 12th of April, and sailing for
Tahiti, Cook fell in, five days later, with the Pomotou archipelago.
He landed on the Tioukea Island of Byron. The inhabitants, who had
cause to complain of earlier navigators, received the advances of the
English coldly. The latter could only obtain about two dozen
cocoa-nuts and five pigs, which appeared plentiful in this island. In
another settlement a more friendly reception was met with. The natives
embraced the new-comers, and rubbed their noses in the same fashion as
the New Zealanders. OEdidi bought several dogs, the long and white
hair of whose skins serves as an ornament for cuirasses in his native
land.
Forster relates:--
"The natives told us that they broke up scurvy grass, mixed it with
shell-fish, and threw it into the sea on the approach of a shoal of
fish. This bait intoxicated the fish for a time, and when they came to
the surface it was easy to take them. The captain afterwards saw
several other islands of this immense archipelago, which were similar
to those he had left, especially the Pernicious Islands, where
Roggewein had lost his sloop, the -African-, and to which Cook gave
the name of Palliser Islands."
He then steered for Tahiti, which the sailors, certain of the
good-will of the natives, regarded as a home. The -Resolution- cast
anchor in Matavai Bay on the 22nd of April, and their reception was as
friendly as had been anticipated. A few days later, King O-Too and
several other chiefs visited the English, and brought them a present
of ten or a dozen large pigs and some fruit.
Cook's first idea was to remain in this spot only just long enough for
Mr. Wales, the astronomer, to take observations, but the abundance of
provisions induced him to prolong his stay.
On the morning of the 26th, the captain, who had been to Oparrée with
some of his officers, to make a formal visit to the king, observed a
fleet of more than 300 pirogues, drawn up in order on the shore. They
were all completely equipped. At the same time a number of warriors
assembled on the beach.
The officers' suspicions were excited by this formidable armament,
collected in one night, but they were reassured by the welcome they
received.
This fleet consisted of no less than sixty large double pirogues,
decorated with flags and streamers, and 170 smaller ones, intended for
the transport of provisions, and the flotilla was manned with no fewer
than 7760 men, warriors or paddlers.
"The sight of this fleet," says Forster, "increased our ideas of the
power and wealth of this island. The entire crew was astonished. When
we reflect upon the implements possessed by this people, we can but
admire the patience and toil necessary to cut down these enormous
trees, separate and polish the branches, and then to carry the heavy
constructions to such perfection. These works are produced by them by
means of a stone hatchet and saw, a piece of coral, and the hide of
whales. The chiefs, and all who occupied a prominent fighting rank,
were dressed in military style--that is to say, in a quantity of
stuffs, turbans, helmets, and breastplates. The height of some of the
helmets was most embarrassing to the wearers. The entire equipment
appeared more appropriate for scenic effect than suitable for a
battlefield. But, in any case, it added to the grandeur of the display,
and the warriors did not fail to show themselves with a view to the
most striking effect.
"Upon reaching Matavai, Cook learned that this formidable armament was
destined for an attack upon Eimio, whose chief had revolted against
the Tahitan yoke, and become independent.
"During the following days the captain was visited by some of his old
friends. All showed a desire to possess red feathers, which were of
considerable value. One only attached more importance to a glass bead
or a nail. The Tahitans were so impressed that they offered in
exchange the strange mourning garments, which they had refused to sell
during Cook's first voyage.
"These garments are made of the rarest productions of the islands and
the surrounding sea, and are worked with care and great skill, and no
doubt are of great value to themselves. We bought no less than ten,
which we brought to England."
OEdidi, who had taken good care to procure some feathers for himself,
could indulge in any caprice he liked. The natives looked upon him as
a prodigy, and listened eagerly to his tales. The principal personages
of the island, and even the king sought his society. He married a
daughter of the chief of Matavai, and brought his wife on board. Every
one was delighted to make him a present. Finally he decided to remain
at Tahiti, where he had found his sister married to a powerful chief.
In spite of the thefts, which more than once caused unpleasantness,
the English procured more provisions on their stay in this port than
ever before. The aged Oberea, who was like a queen in the island
during the stay made by the -Dauphin- in 1767, herself brought pigs
and fruits, in the secret hope of obtaining red feathers, which had so
great a success. Presents were liberally given, and the Indians were
amused with fireworks and military manoeuvres.
Just before he left, the captain witnessed a curious naval review.
O-Too ordered a sham fight, but it lasted so short a time that it was
impossible to observe the movements. The fleet was to commence
hostilities five days after Cook's departure, and he would much have
liked to have waited for it; but, fearing the natives might suspect
him of an attempt to overcome both conquered and victors, he
determined to leave.
The -Resolution- had scarcely left the bay, when one of the gunners,
seduced by the delights of Tahiti, and possibly by the promises of
King O-Too, who, no doubt, thought a European might be of use to him,
threw himself into the sea, but he was soon retaken by a boat launched
by Cook in his pursuit.
Cook very much regretted the fact that discipline obliged him to act
in this way. The man had no relations or friends in England, and, had
he requested permission to remain in Tahiti, it would not have been
refused.
On the 15th, the -Resolution- anchored in O Wharre harbour, in
Huaheine Island. The old chief Orea was one of the first to
congratulate the English upon their return, and to bring them presents.
The captain presented him with red feathers, but the old chief
appeared to prefer iron, hatchets, and nails. He seemed more indolent
than upon the previous visit. His head was weaker, no doubt owing to
his immoderate love for an intoxicating drink extracted from pepper by
the natives. His authority was evidently despised, and Cook sent in
pursuit of a band of robbers, who had not refrained from pillaging the
old king himself, and who had taken refuge in the centre of the island.
Orea showed himself grateful for the consideration the English had
always shown him. He was the last to leave the vessel before she
sailed, on the 24th of April, and when Cook said that they should
never meet again, he shed tears and replied,--
"Send your children here, we will treat them well."
On another occasion, Orea asked the captain where he should be buried.
"At Stepney," said Cook. Orea begged him to repeat the word until he
could pronounce it. Then a hundred voices cried at once, "Stepney
morai no Toote," "Stepney the grave of Cook." In giving this reply the
great navigator had no prevision of his fate, or of the difficulty his
fellow-countrymen would have in finding his remains.
OEdidi, who at the last moment had accompanied the English to Huaheine,
had not met with so cordial a welcome as at Tahiti. His riches had
strangely diminished and his credit suffered in consequence. The
narrative says,--
"He soon proved the truth of the proverb, that a man is never a
prophet in his own country. He left us with regrets, which proved his
esteem for us, and when the moment of separation arrived, he ran from
cabin to cabin embracing every one. It is impossible to describe the
mental anguish of the young man when he left. He gazed at the vessel,
burst into tears, and crouched in despair in the bottom of his pirogue.
We saw him again, stretching out his arms to us, as we left the
reefs."
Cook reconnoitred Hove Island (so called by Wallis) on the 6th of June.
It is named Mohipa by the natives. A few days later he found several
uninhabited islets, surrounded by a chain of breakers, to which he
gave the name of Palmerston, in honour of one of the Lords of the
Admiralty.
Upon the 20th a steep and rocky island was discovered, crowned with
large woods, and bushes; the beach was narrow and sandy, and several
natives of very dark complexion were seen upon it.
They made menacing demonstrations, and were armed with lances and
clubs. As soon as the English landed they retired. Champions, however,
advanced, and endeavoured to provoke the strangers, assailing them
with a storm of arrows and stones. Sparrman was wounded in the arm,
and Cook just escaped being struck by a javelin. A general volley soon
dispersed these inhospitable islanders, and the uncivil reception
which was thus accorded well deserved the name bestowed upon their
land of Savage Island.
Four days later Cook reached the Tonga archipelago once more. He
stopped this time at Nomouka, called Rotterdam by Tasman.
He had scarcely cast anchor before the ship was surrounded by a crowd
of pirogues, filled with bananas and every kind of fruit, which were
exchanged for nails and old pieces of stuff. This friendly reception
encouraged the naturalists to land and penetrate to the interior, in
search of new plants and unknown productions. Upon their return they
enlarged upon the beauty of this picturesque and romantic country, and
upon the affability and cordiality of the natives.
In spite of it, however, various thefts continued to take place, until
a more important larceny than usual obliged the captain to resort to
severity.
A native, who opposed the seizure of two pirogues by the English, as
hostages until the stolen arms were restored, was wounded severely by
a gunshot. During this second visit Cook bestowed the name of Friendly
Islands upon this group, no doubt with a sarcastic meaning. Now-a-days
they are better known by the native name of Tonga.
The indefatigable navigator continued his route in a westward
direction, passed in succession Lepreux, Aurora, Whitsunday and
Mallicolo Islands, to which archipelago Bougainville had given the
name of the Grandes Cyclades.
Cook gave his usual order, to enter into friendly and commercial
relations with the inhabitants.
The first day passed quietly, and the natives celebrated the visit of
the English by games and dancing, but on the morrow an incident
occurred which led to a general collision.
A native, who was refused access to the ship, prepared to launch an
arrow at one of the sailors. His fellow-countrymen at first prevented
him. At the same moment Cook appeared on deck, his gun in his hand.
His first step was to shout to the native, who again aimed at the
sailor. Without replying, the native was about to let his arrow fly at
him, when a shot anticipated and wounded him. This was the signal for
a general discharge of arrows, which struck on the vessel and did but
little damage. Cook then ordered a gun to be fired over the natives'
heads with a view to dispersing them. A few hours later the natives
again surrounded the ship, and returned to their barter as if nothing
had happened.
Cook took advantage of these friendly indications to land an armed
detachment for wood and water. Four or five natives were collected on
the beach. A chief, leaving the group, advanced to the captain,
holding in his hand, as Cook also did, a green bough. The two branches
were exchanged, and peace thus concluded, a few slight presents helped
to cement it. Cook then obtained permission to take wood, but not to
go far from the shore, and the naturalists, who were anxious to
prosecute their investigations in the interior, were brought back to
the beach, in spite of their protestations.
Iron implements had no value for these people. This made it extremely
difficult to obtain provisions. Only a few agreed to exchange arms for
stuffs, and exhibited an honesty in their transactions to which the
English were unaccustomed.
The exchanges continued after the -Resolution- had set sail, and the
natives hurried in their pirogues to deliver the articles for which
they had received the price. One of them, after vigorous efforts,
succeeded in gaining the vessels, carrying his weapons to a sailor who
had paid for them and forgotten it, it was so long ago. The native
refused the recompense the sailor would have given, making him
understand that he had been paid already. Cook gave the name of Port
Sandwich to this harbour of refuge, which he left on the morning of
the 23rd of July.
He was most favourably impressed by the moral qualities of the natives
of Mallicolo, but by no means so in regard to their physical powers.
Small and badly proportioned, bronze in colour, with flat faces, they
were hideous. Had Darwinian theories been in vogue in those days, no
doubt Cook would have recognized in them that missing link between man
and monkey, which is the despair of Darwin's followers.
Their coarse, crinkly black hair was short, and their bushy beards did
not add to their beauty. But the one thing which made them most
grotesque was their habit of tying a cord tightly across the stomach,
which made them appear like great emmets. Tortoise-shell ear-rings,
bracelets made of hogs'-teeth, large tortoise-shell rings, and a white
flat stone which they passed through the cartilage of the nose,
constituted their ornaments. Their weapons were bows and arrows,
spears and clubs. The points of their arrows, which were occasionally
two or three in number, were coated with a substance which the English
thought was poisonous, from observing the care with which the natives
drew them out of a kind of quiver.
The -Resolution- had only just left Port Sandwich when all the crew
were seized with colic, vomiting, and violent pains in the head and
back. Two large fish had been caught and eaten by them, possibly
whilst they were under the influence of the narcotic mentioned above.
In every case, ten days elapsed before entire recovery. A parrot and
dog which had also eaten of the fish died next day. Quiros' companions
had suffered in the same way, and since Cook's voyage similar symptoms
of poisoning have been noticed in these latitudes.
After leaving Mallicolo, Cook steered for Ambrym Island, which
appeared to contain a volcano, and shortly afterwards discovered a
group of small islands, which he named Shepherd Islands, in honour of
the Cambridge Professor of Astronomy.
He then visited the Islands of Two Hills, Montagu and Hinchinbrook
Islands, and the largest of all, Sandwich Island, which must not be
mistaken for the group of the same name. All the islands, lying among
and protected by breakers, were covered with rich vegetation and were
largely populated.
[Illustration: Typical natives of the Sandwich Islands. (Fac-simile of
early engraving.)]
Two slight accidents interrupted the calm on board. A fire broke out,
which was soon extinguished, and one of the sailors falling overboard,
was at once rescued.
Koro Mango was discovered on the 3rd of August. Next day Cook reached
its shore, hoping to find a watering-place, and facility for landing.
The greater part of the sufferers from the poisonous fish had not yet
recovered their health, and they looked forward to its speedy
re-establishment on shore. But the reception accorded to them by the
natives, who were armed with clubs, lances, and arrows, seemed wanting
in sincerity.
Cook was on his guard. Finding that they could not lure the English
into landing, the natives endeavoured to force them. A chief and
several men tried to snatch the oars from the sailors. Cook wished to
fire his musket, but the priming would not go off. The English were
immediately overwhelmed with stones and arrows. The captain at once
ordered a general volley; fortunately half of the shots missed, or the
slaughter would have been terrific.
Forster says, "These natives appear to be of different race to those
living in Mallicolo. They speak a different language. They are of
medium height, but well-shaped, and their features are not
disagreeable. They were bronze in complexion, and they paint their
faces black or red; their hair is somewhat woolly and curly. The few
women I saw appeared very ugly. I have seen no pirogues on any part of
the coast. They live in houses covered with palm-leaves, and their
plantations are in straight lines and are surrounded by a hedge of
reeds."
It was useless to make a second attempt to land. Cook having bestowed
the name of Cape Traitor upon the scene of the collision, reached an
island, which he had seen the previous evening, and which the natives
called Tanna.
"The highest hill of the same range is of conical shape," says Forster,
"with a crater in the centre. It is reddish brown, and composed of a
mass of burnt stones, perfectly sterile. From time to time it emitted
a thick column of smoke like a great tree, increasing in width as it
ascended."
The -Resolution- was at once surrounded by a score of pirogues, the
largest of which contained twenty-five men. The latter sought to
appropriate everything within their reach, buoys, flags, the hinges of
the rudder, which they tried to knock off. They only returned to the
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