"Those of our company who had remained on board, could hardly credit
our account of this disgusting fact. They refused to believe that a
people who had been so differently described by Captain Cook and
Captain Forster could be capable of so degrading a practice, but the
most incredulous were soon convinced. I had retained possession of the
gnawed bone, and our surgeon at once recognized it as that of a child.
To make still more sure of the cannibalism of the natives, I offered
it to one of them. He seized it eagerly, and tore the remaining flesh
from it with his teeth; after he had done with it, I passed it to
another, who still found something upon it to relish."
[Illustration: Natives of New Caledonia.]
The natives who visited the vessel, committed so many thefts, and
became so impudent, that we were forced to drive them away. Upon
landing next day, the French found the natives feasting.
They immediately offered a share of their meal to the strangers. It
proved to be human flesh recently cooked.
Many of them even came close up to the French and felt the muscles of
their arms and legs, uttering the word Karapek, with an expression of
admiration and longing which was anything but reassuring.
Many of the officers were assaulted and robbed with the greatest
effrontery. There remained no doubt of the intentions of the natives.
They even attempted to possess themselves of the hatchets the sailors
had brought on shore to cut wood, and were only made to desist by
being fired upon.
These constantly recurring hostilities always ended in the repulse of
the natives, many of whom were killed or wounded. But in spite of the
repulses they met with, they let no favourable opportunity pass of
recommencing their attacks.
La Billardière was witness to a fact which has since been frequently
observed, but was long disbelieved. He saw the natives eating steatite.
This mineral substance serves to deaden the sense of hunger, by
filling the stomach and sustaining the viscera of the diaphragm, and
although it contains no nourishment whatever, it is useful to them,
because they have long periods when food is scarcely procurable, as
they bestow very little cultivation upon their land, which is
naturally very sterile. Yet, one would scarcely have expected hungry
cannibals to resort to such an expedient.
No news of La Perouse had been obtained during the stay in New
Caledonia. But M. Jules Garnier states that a tradition exists of the
appearance of two large ships, which had sent boats on shore, near the
northern extremity of Pine Island.
"After the first alarm," says M. Jules Garnier, in a communication
which appeared in the "Bulletin de la Societé de Géographie" for
November, 1869, "the natives approached the strangers and fraternized
with them; they were quite astonished at their riches, and their
cupidity induced them to oppose the departure of the French sailors by
force; but their ardour was moderated by a volley which killed a few
of them. Little pleased with their reception, the French vessels
proceeded to the mainland, after letting off a cannon, which the
natives took to be a clap of thunder."
It is strange that D'Entrecasteaux, who entered into communications
with the natives of Pine Island, should have heard nothing of these
events. The island is small, and its population has always been scanty.
The natives must have kept secret the fact of their dealings with La
Perouse.
Had D'Entrecasteaux, in his navigation among the coral reefs which
protect the eastern coast of New Caledonia, succeeded in entering one
of the many openings he met with, he might have found some trace of
the course taken by La Perouse, who was a careful navigator, and
anxious to emulate Cook, who had touched at several points of that
coast. A whaler, whose account is quoted by Rienzi, declared that he
had seen medals and a cross of St. Louis, relics of the French
expedition, in possession of the natives of New Caledonia.
M. Jules Garnier, during a voyage from Noumea to Canala, in March,
1865, observed in the hand of one of their native escort, "an old
rusty sword, in the fashion of the last century," which bore the
impression of the "fleur-de-lys." He could obtain no account of it
from its possessor, except that he had had it a long time.
There is no evidence that any member of the expedition gave a sword,
still less a cross of the order of St. Louis, to a savage. No doubt an
officer had fallen in some encounter, and thus these articles had come
into native hands.
This hypothesis accords with M. Garnier's explanation of the
contradictory accounts given by Cook and D'Entrecasteaux of the people
of Balade. According to the former, they are peaceable, honest, and
friendly; according to the latter, they are robbers, traitors, and
cannibals. M. Jules Garnier suggests that some extraordinary event
must have changed the disposition of the natives between the two
visits. Most likely an encounter had taken place. The Europeans may
have been driven to the use of arms: they may possibly have destroyed
plantations and burnt huts. In such a case their hostile reception of
D'Entrecasteaux would be explicable.
La Billardière, in his account of an excursion to the mountains
forming the water-shed of the northern extremity of New Caledonia, and
from which the sea can be seen on either side, says,--
"We were followed by three natives, who had no doubt seen us a year
previously, when we coasted the eastern shores of their island, for
before they left us they spoke of two ships which they had seen upon
that coast."
La Billardière ought to have pressed the natives upon this subject.
Were the vessels seen by them those of La Perouse or of
D'Entrecasteaux: and was it really "a year previously"?
From these details we see how much it is to be regretted that
D'Entrecasteaux did not pursue his investigations more zealously. No
doubt, had he done so, he would have found traces of his
fellow-countrymen. We shall shortly see, that with a little
perseverance he would have found some at least, if not all of them
alive.
During the stay in this port Captain Huon de Kermadec succumbed to a
hectic fever from which he had long been suffering. He was succeeded
in the command of the -Espérance- by M. D'Hesminy d'Auribeau.
Leaving New Caledonia upon the 21st Floréal,[6] D'Entrecasteaux
sighted successively Moulin and Huon Islands, and Santa Cruz de
Mendana, which is separated from New Jersey by a strait, in which the
French vessels were attacked by the natives.
[Footnote 6: Eighth month of the Republican calendar, from 18th April
to 20th May.]
To the south-east D'Entrecasteaux observed an island, which he named
after the -Recherche-, and which he might have called Discovery if he
had approached it. It was Vanikoro, an islet surrounded by coral reefs,
upon which La Perouse's vessels had been wrecked, and which at this
time, in all probability, was inhabited by some of the unfortunate
seamen. It was most unfortunate to be so near success, and yet to miss
it! But the veil which hid the fate of La Perouse and his companions
was not destined to be removed for a long time yet.
After surveying the northern extremities of Santa Cruz, without any
result so far as the object of his expedition was concerned,
D'Entrecasteaux directed his course to De Surville's Land of the
Arsacides. He reconnoitred the northern coast, and thence reached the
shores of Lousiade, which La Perouse had announced his intention of
visiting when he left Salomon Island, and surveyed Cape Deliverance.
Bougainville was wrong in supposing that this cape belonged to New
Guinea; it is the extreme point of an island, called Rossel after one
of the officers who has given an account of the expedition.
After coasting along a series of low and rocky islands, which were
named after the principal officers, the vessels reached Cape William,
on the coast of New Guinea. They then directed their course to
Dampier's Strait. After sailing along the northern coast of New
Britain, several small and mountainous islands, hitherto unknown, were
discovered. Upon the 17th of July a small island in the neighbourhood
of the Anchorite Islands was sighted.
D'Entrecasteaux had long been suffering from dysentery and scurvy, and
was in extreme danger. Following the advice of his officers, he
decided to take leave of the -Espérance-, and endeavoured to reach
Waihoun more quickly. Upon the 20th of July he sunk under long and
protracted sufferings. After a stay at Waihoun and Bouro Islands, at
which latter place the President overwhelmed the French with
civilities, and where Bougainville was still remembered by the natives,
the expedition left, under command of D'Auribeau. He also
unfortunately fell ill, and the command was transferred to Rossel,
under whose orders the vessels passed first Boutong, and then Saleyer
Straits, and reached Sourabaya upon the 19th of October.
[Illustration: View of the Island of Bouron.]
Sad news here awaited the members of the expedition. Louis XVI. had
been beheaded. France was at war with Holland and all the European
powers. Although both the -Recherche- and the -Espérance- needed many
repairs, and the health of the crews needed repose, D'Auribeau was
about to start for Mauritius, when he was detained by the Dutch
governor. Fearing that the news from Europe, affecting as it did the
various members of the expedition so differently, might lead to
disaffection in his colony, he subjected his "prisoners," as he called
the French, to most humiliating conditions, which they could not
escape. Irritation and hatred were rampant, when it occurred to
D'Auribeau to unfurl the white flag. However, the greater part of the
officers and men of science, amongst them Billardière, obstinately
refused to respect the conditions imposed; and being arrested by order
of the Dutch authorities, were distributed throughout the different
ports of the colony.
After the death of D'Auribeau, which occurred upon the 21st of Aug.,
1794, Rossel became head of the expedition. He undertook to convey all
documents of every kind collected during the voyage to France; but
being taken prisoner by an English frigate, he was deprived of his
property, in defiance of justice; and when France obtained the objects
of natural history, of which she had been robbed--the expression is
not too strong when we recall the instructions given by the French
government with regard to Captain Cook's expedition--they were in so
bad a condition that they had lost much of their value.
Thus ended this unfortunate expedition. Although its principal object
had not been attained, it had at least resulted in some geographical
discoveries; it had completed or rectified those made by preceding
navigators; and to it, especially to the exertions of La Billardière,
are due the acquisition of an immense number of facts in natural
history.
III.
Captain Marchand's voyage--The Marquesas--Discovery of Nouka-Hiva--
Manners and customs of the inhabitants--Revolution Islands--The coast
of America and Tchinkitané Port--Cox Strait--Stay at the Sandwich
Islands--Macao--Disappointment--Return to France--Discoveries made by
Bass and Flinders upon the Australian coast--Captain Baudin's
expedition--Endracht and De Witt Islands--Stay at Timor--Survey of Van
Diemen's Land--Separation between the -Géographe- and the
-Naturaliste---Stay at Port Jackson--Convicts--Agricultural wealth of
New South Wales--Return of the -Naturaliste- to France--Cruise of the
-Géographe- and of the -Casuarina- to the Islands of Nuyts, Edels,
Endracht, and De Witt--Second stay at Timor--Return to France.
Etienne Marchand, a captain in the merchant service, returning to
France from Bengal in 1788, met with the English Captain Portlock in
the roadstead of St. Helena. Their conversation naturally fell upon
commerce, and the value of various articles of trade. Like a sensible
man, Marchand allowed his companion to talk, and only put in a few
words himself now and again, and thus drew from Portlock the
interesting information that furs, and more especially otter skins,
which could be obtained for a mere trifle upon the eastern coast of
North America, realized an enormous price in China; whilst at the same
time a cargo brought from the Celestial Empire would return a large
profit in Europe.
Upon arriving in France, Marchand communicated what he had learned to
his ship-owners, MM. Baux of Marseilles, and they at once resolved to
act upon the knowledge he had obtained. Navigation in the Pacific
Ocean required a ship of special strength and excellence. MM. Baux
ordered the construction of a vessel of 300 tons' burden, plated with
copper, and provided with every necessary for defence in case of
attack, and for repairs in the event of accident, and also with
everything likely to promote trade and to ensure the health of the
crews during a voyage of three or four years.
Two captains, MM. Masse and Prosper Chanal, were associated with
Marchand in the command of the expedition, and the rest of the party
consisted of three lieutenants, two surgeons, three volunteers, and a
crew of thirty-nine seamen. Four cannon, two howitzers, four swivel
guns, with the needful ammunition, &c., formed the equipment.
Although the vessel was only to reach Cape Horn at the beginning of
winter, the -Solide- left Marseilles upon the 14th of December, 1790.
After a short stay at Praya, Cape Verde Islands, Marchand proceeded to
Staten Island, which he reached upon the 1st of April, 1791. He then
doubled Tierra del Fuego, and entered the Pacific. His intention was
to proceed immediately to the north-western coast of America, but at
the beginning of May the water on board was already so tainted that he
required a fresh supply.
Under these circumstances, the captain decided to reach the Marquesas
Islands of Mendoza which are situated in S. lat. 6 degrees, and near
141 degrees west of the Paris meridian.
"The situation of these islands," says Fleurien, who published an
interesting account of this voyage, "was the more suitable for his
purpose, because with a view to escaping the calms often met with in
too easterly a course, he had resolved to cross the line at 142
degrees west longitude."
This group of islands had been discovered in 1595 by Mendoza, and
visited by Cook in 1774. Magdalena Island, the most southerly of the
group, was reached upon the 12th of June.
The captain, and his associate Chanal, had calculated with such
precision, that the -Solide- anchored off the Mendoza Islands, after a
cruise of seventy-three days from the time of leaving Staten Island,
without having noticed any land whatever. Constant astronomical
observations alone ensured the safety of the vessel in a sea where the
currents were unequal, and it was quite impossible to regulate the
course of the ship by any ordinary calculations.
Marchand made for San Pedro, which lay on the west. He soon recognized
Dominica, Santa Cristina, and Hood Island, the most northerly of the
group, and finally anchored in Madre-de-Dios Bay, where he was
enthusiastically welcomed by the natives, crying "Tayo, Tayo."
Finding it impossible to obtain the number of pigs he required at this
port, the captain decided upon visiting the remaining bays of Santa
Cristina Island, which he found better populated, more fertile, and
more picturesque than that of Madre-de-Dios.
The stay of the English in the Marquesas Islands had been too short to
allow of accurate observations of the manners and customs of the
inhabitants. We will therefore make a few extracts from the
description given by Etienne Marchand.
"These natives are tall, strong, and active. Their complexion is clear
brown, but many differ little in this respect from the lower orders in
Europe. The climate renders clothing unnecessary, but they tattoo
their entire bodies so regularly (each arm and leg, for example,
exactly like its fellow), that the effect is by no means bad. The way
of arranging the hair varies, and fashion is as despotic in the
Marquesas as in other countries. Some wear necklaces of red beads,
others a string of small pieces of light wood. Although both men and
women have their ears pierced, ear-rings are not usually worn. But a
young native girl has been seen strutting about wearing as a neck
ornament the rusty iron shaving-dish which she had stolen from the
ship's barber, whilst a man was equally proud of sporting the ramrod
of Captain Marchand's gun, which he had placed in the orifice of his
ear, letting part of it hang down."
Cook affirms that these islanders, like the Tahitans, were acquainted
with "Kaba." Certain it is that they called the brandy, which was
offered them on the -Solide-, by the name of the pepper-plant. It
appeared that they did not indulge to excess in this liquor, for none
of them were ever seen in a state of drunkenness.
The English did not mention in their account of the natives an act of
civility, which Captain Chanal thought worthy of special record. It
consisted in offering to a friend a piece of food which had been
already chewed, that he might have no trouble but that of swallowing
it. We may easily imagine that the French, in spite of their
appreciation of the good-will conveyed in this action, were little
likely to avail themselves of it.
To Marchand we owe also the curious observation that their huts are
raised upon flat stones, and that the stilts which they use indicate
that Santa Cristina is subject to inundations. In the exhibition at
the Trocadero, one of these stilts, extremely well made and carved,
was exhibited; and M. Hamy, whose thorough knowledge of everything
relating to Oceania is well known, has written an essay upon this
singular object.
Beyond the usual occupations of fishing, the construction of their
weapons, pirogues, and domestic implements, the natives of Santa
Cristina pass their time in singing, dancing, and amusing themselves.
The common expression of "killing the time" seems to have been
invented to mark the uselessness of the actions which make up their
lives.
During the earlier days of the stay in Madre-de-Dios Bay, Marchand had
observed something which led him to the discovery of a group of
islands hitherto unknown to the older navigators or to Cook. Upon a
clear evening, at sunset, he noticed a spot upon the horizon, which
had the appearance of a lofty peak. As this appeared several nights in
succession, he concluded that it was land, and finding it not
mentioned upon any of the charts, it seemed probable that it was some
unknown island.
Marchand determined to satisfy himself upon this point, and leaving
Santa Cristina upon the 20th of June, he had the satisfaction of
discovering a group of small islands in the north-west, which were
situated in 7 degrees south latitude. He gave his own name to the most
important of them. The natives were evidently of the same race as that
which peopled the Marquesas. Shortly afterwards several other islands
were discovered; including Baux Island, which is identical with
Nouka-Hiva, the Deux Frères, and Masse and Chanal Islands. This group,
since united by geographers to that of the Marquesas, received the
name of Revolution Islands.
The course was then directed to the American coast. It was too late in
the season to attempt to reach William's Sound or Cook's River, on the
sixth parallel. Marchand accordingly resolved upon making for Engano
Cape and entering the Norfolk Bay of Dixon, which is identical with
the Guadaloupe Bay of the Spaniards.
Upon the 7th of August Engano Cape was sighted, and after five days of
calm anchor was cast in Guadaloupe Bay. There had not been a single
case of scurvy on board, after 242 days' navigation, ten of which only
were passed in port, at Praya and Madre-de-Dios, and after traversing
some 5800 leagues of sea. This was certainly a wonderful fact, due to
the prevision of the ship-owners, who had spared nothing that could
conduce to the health of the crews, and also to the care with which
the captains had observed the sanitary measures commended to them by
experience.
During his stay in this port, which the natives called Tchinkitané,
Marchand bought a number of otter skins, one hundred of which were of
the very first quality.
The natives are ugly, stunted, but well proportioned. They have round,
flat faces, small, sunken, bleared eyes, and prominent cheek-bones,
which do not add to their beauty.
It is difficult to define the colour of their skins, so carefully is
it disguised under a thick coating of grease, and the black and red
substances which they rub in. Their hair is coarse, thick, and bushy,
covered with ochre, down, and all the filth accumulated by time and
neglect, and adds not a little to their unprepossessing appearance.
The women, though not so black as the men, are even more ugly. They
are short and thick-set; their feet turn inwards, and their incredibly
filthy habits make them repulsive. The coquetry which is innate in the
female mind, induces them to add to their natural charms by the use of
a labial ornament, as ugly as it is inconvenient, of which we have
already spoken in our account of Captain Cook's stay in these waters.
By means of an incision just below the lower lip, they make an opening
parallel to that of the mouth, into which they insert an iron or
wooden skewer, and from time to time they gradually increase the size
of the instrument, in accordance with advancing age.
Finally, they introduce a piece of wood, made for the purpose, of the
size and shape of the bowl of an ordinary table-spoon. This ornament,
weighing upon the projecting part, naturally forces down the lower lip
upon the chin, and developes the beauty of a large, gaping mouth, in
shape not unlike an oven, revealing a row of dirty, yellow teeth. This
bowl is removable at pleasure, and when it is absent the opening in
the lower lip presents the appearance of a second mouth, which is
little smaller than the natural one, and in some cases has been known
to be three inches in length.
The -Solide- left Tchinkitané upon the 21st of August, and steered to
the south-east, in the hope of coming upon Queen Charlotte's Islands,
which had been discovered in 1786 by La Perouse. These islands extend
over a distance of nearly seventy leagues. Upon the 23rd, Etienne
Marchand sighted Manteau Bay (Dixon's Cloak Bay), which was carefully
surveyed by Captain Chanal.
Next day the vessels entered Cox Strait, and began to trade with the
Indians for furs.
The navigators were immensely astonished at seeing two enormous
paintings, evidently of great age, and some gigantic sculptures, which,
although not bearing the very smallest comparison to the
-chef-d'oeuvres- of Greece, testified none the less to artistic tastes
little to be expected from the miserable population.
The lands which form Cox Strait and Bay are low and covered with firs.
The soil, composed of the remains of plants and broken rocks, does not
appear to have much depth, and the productions are similar to those of
Tchinkitané.
The population may be estimated at 400. Not unlike Europeans in height
and figure, they are less hideous than the Tchinkitaneans.
This stay in Cloak Bay was not as productive of trade in furs as
Marchand had expected, and he therefore decided to send an expedition
under Captain Chanal to the more southerly islands. The object of the
expedition was the survey of the regions which had hitherto been
unvisited. Dixon was the only navigator who had crossed these waters,
and none of his crew had landed. It is therefore not astonishing that
many of his assertions were either rectified or denied after this more
careful exploration.
After sighting Nootka Sound, Berkley Bay was reached, but just as the
-Solide- was about to enter it, a three-masted ship was seen
approaching the harbour from the south, which was precisely what
Marchand had intended doing. This decided the French navigator to
proceed immediately to the coast of China, and dispose of his
merchandize before the vessel he now saw should have time to reach it
and compete with him.
The best route to follow was that of the Sandwich Islands, and upon
the 5th of October, the heights of Mauna Loa, and Mauna-Koa were made
out by the French. They seemed quite free from snow, which was
contrary to the description given of them by Captain King.
So soon as Owhyhee Island was in sight, Marchand wisely decided to
conduct all his trade on board. He obtained pigs, fowls, cocoa-nuts,
bananas, and various fruits from this island, and was delighted at
finding amongst them pumpkins and watermelons, no doubt from the seeds
sown by Captain Cook.
Four days were passed in trade, then the route to China was resumed,
and in due course Tinian Island, one of the Mariannas, was sighted.
Commodore Anson's glowing description of this island will be recalled.
Byron, as we have already mentioned, was quite astonished at the
different aspect it presented to him. But the fact is, some fifty
years earlier Tinian was flourishing and counted thirty thousand
inhabitants, and the victorious Spaniards had since introduced an
epidemic which had decimated the population, whilst the miserable
survivors had been torn from their country and sent to Guaham as
slaves.
Marchand did not land at Tinian--which according to the accounts of
every navigator who had visited it since Byron, had relapsed into
barbarism--but made for the southern extremity of Formosa.
Reaching Macao upon the 28th of November, he heard news which
disconcerted him. The Chinese Government had just passed a law
prohibiting the introduction of furs into the ports of the empire
under most severe penalties. Was this the result of some unknown
clause in a secret treaty with Russia, or was it due to the cupidity
and avarice of a few mandarins? In either case it was impossible to
infringe the law.
Marchand wrote to MM. Baux's agents in Canton; but the same
prohibition held good in that town also, and it was useless to think
of reaching Whampoa, where he would have had to pay duty, amounting to
at least six thousand piastres.
The only course open to Marchand was to go to Mauritius, and thence
return to Marseilles. It is unnecessary to describe the return voyage,
which was accomplished without any unusual incidents.
What were the scientific results of this expedition? Nothing to speak
of, from a geographical point of view. They may be enumerated as
follows:--The discovery of that portion of the Marquesas Islands which
had escaped the notice of Captain Cook and his predecessors, a more
thorough examination of the country, and the manners and customs of
the natives of Santa Christina in the same group, of Tchinkitané and
Cloak Bays, and of Queen Charlotte's Islands off the American coast.
Small as these results might appear for an official expedition, they
were not unsatisfactory for a vessel equipped by private enterprise;
moreover, Captain Marchand and his colleagues had turned new
discoveries to such good account, and studied the narratives of
earlier voyagers so carefully, that they carried out the plan of their
expedition more precisely than many experienced navigators might have
done. And, in their turn, they rendered valuable assistance to their
successors by the accuracy of their charts and drawings.
Circumstances were to prove less favourable for the publication of an
account of a scientific expedition undertaken some years later, under
the auspices of the French Government, having for its object the
survey of the Australian coast. Although the results of the voyage
made by Nicolas Baudin were most abundant, they seem up to this date
to have been little recognized, and scientific dictionaries and
biographies say as little as possible of his expedition.
From the time of Tasman's discovery of the western coast of New
Holland, much had been done towards exploring this immense continent.
Cook had carefully surveyed the eastern coast, discovering Endeavour
Strait, and had urged upon his government the great advantages which
would accrue from the founding of a colony in Botany Bay. In 1788,
Philip, with his band of convicts, had laid the foundation of Port
Jackson and of English power in this fifth continent of the world. In
1795 and 1796, Flinders, a midshipman, and Surgeon Bass, with a small
vessel called the -Tom Thumb-, had explored twenty miles of the River
George, and made a careful survey of a long stretch of coast.
In 1797, Bass discovered a large harbour, which he named Western Port
on account of its situation.
"His provisions were now exhausted," says Desborough Coolley, "and in
spite of his earnest wish to make an accurate and minute survey of his
new discoveries, he was obliged to retrace his steps. He was only
provided with provisions for six weeks; still, by aid of fish and
sea-birds, which he obtained in abundance, he succeeded in extending
his voyage for another five weeks, although he had taken on board two
convicts, whom he had picked up. This voyage of six hundred miles in
an open boat, is one of the most remarkable on record. It was not
undertaken from necessity, but with the view to exploring unknown and
dangerous shores."
In 1798, Bass, accompanied by Flinders, discovered the strait which
now bears his name, and which divides Tasmania from New Holland, and
in a schooner of some twenty-five tons' burden, he made the tour of
Van Diemen's land. These brave adventurers collected facts, and made
observations of the rivers and ports of this country which were of
great use in the future colonization of the continent. Bass and
Jackson were both enthusiastically received at Port Jackson.
Upon his return to England, Flinders received command of the
-Investigator-, with the rank of naval lieutenant. This vessel was
especially equipped for a voyage of discovery upon the Australian
coast. The south and north-western shores, the Gulf of Carpentaria,
and Torres Straits, were to be explored.
Public attention in France had been attracted to New Holland by the
narratives published by Cook and D'Entrecasteaux. This wonderful
continent, with its strange unknown animals, and forests of gigantic
eucalyptus, alternating with barren plains producing nothing but
prickly plants, was long to present all but invincible obstacles to
the explorer.
The French Institute was the mouthpiece of popular opinion, in
demanding from the government the organization of an expedition to the
southern continent. As a result of their representations, twenty-four
scientific men were selected to participate in the voyage.
No previous expedition had been so fortunate in the number of
scientific men attached to the staff. Astronomers, geographers,
mineralogists, botanists, zoologists, draughtsmen, and gardeners, all
mustered four or five strong. Foremost amongst them we may mention,
Leschenaut de Latour, Francois Péron, and Borg de Saint Vincent.
Officers and sailors had been carefully selected. Among the first were
François-Andre Baudin, Peureux de Mélay, Hyacinthe de Bougainville,
Charles Baudin, Emmanuel Hamelen, Pierre Milius, Mangin, Duval d'Ailly,
Henri de Freycinet, all of whom in after-life rose to be admirals or
vice-admirals; Le Bas Sante-Croix, Pierre Gillaume Gicquel,
Jacques-Philippe Montgéry, Jacques de Saint Cricq, Louis de Freycinet,
all future naval captains.
The narrative says, "The plans for the expedition were such as to
guarantee its success, and the attainment of the results so eagerly
desired. All the experiences of preceding navigators, in the latitudes
through which we were to pass, all that theories and reasoning could
suggest, had been called into requisition. Most accurate calculations
of the variable winds, monsoons, and currents had been made, and the
misfortunes which overtook us were in every case due to our deviation
from our valuable instructions."
A third vessel of lesser draught was equipped at the Mauritius. The
navigators were then to proceed to Van Diemen's Land, D'Entrecasteaux,
Bass, and Banks Straits, and thence, having determined the situation
of the Hunter Islands, to pass behind St. Peter and St. Francis
Islands, and survey the country behind them, in the hope of finding
the strait supposed to be connected with the Gulf of Carpentaria and
to divide New Holland into two parts.
This survey accomplished, Leuvin, Edels, and Endracht Islands were
next to be visited, Swan River to be followed as far as possible, and
a survey taken of Rottnest Island and the coast near it. From thence
the expedition was to proceed to Shark Bay, to determine various
points in De Witt Land, and, leaving the coast at North West Cape, to
go to Timor, in the Moluccas, for a well-earned rest.
After allowing sufficient time for the crews to recover from their
fatigue, the coast of New Guinea was to be surveyed, with the view to
ascertaining whether it was broken up into islands by various straits,
the further portion of Gulf of Carpentaria was to be explored, various
districts in Arnheim Land were to be reconnoitred, and from thence the
expedition was to proceed to Mauritius, on its way to Europe.
A more splendid programme was impossible, and it was clearly traceable
to the able mind which had laid down the route taken by La Perouse and
D'Entrecasteaux. If the expedition were skilfully conducted the
results could not fail to be considerable.
The -Géographe-, a corvette of thirty guns, and the -Naturaliste-, a
large transport ship, were equipped at Havre for the expedition.
Nothing had been forgotten, the provisions were abundant and of good
quality; each vessel was provided with all kinds of scientific
instruments by the best makers, a library of the most trustworthy
authorities, passports couched in the most flattering terms and signed
by every government in Europe, and unlimited credit in all the towns
of Asia and Africa. In short, every possible measure was taken to
ensure the success of this important expedition.
Upon the 19th of October, 1800, the two vessels left Havre amidst the
acclamations of an immense multitude. A short stay was made at Port
Santa Cruz in Teneriffe, and thence they proceeded without stopping to
Mauritius, where several officers were left who were too ill to
proceed when the expedition set sail upon the 25th of April, 1801.
This was not an encouraging beginning, and discontent was rife when it
was ascertained that the allowance of fresh bread was to be limited to
half a pound weekly, and that the usual ration of wine was to be
replaced by three-sixths of a bottle of the inferior tafia of
Mauritius, whilst biscuits and salt meats were to be the staple food.
This ill-advised economy resulted in the illnesses of the crew, and
the discontent of many of the scientific staff.
The length of the voyage from France to Mauritius, and the long stay
in that island, had consumed much valuable time, and the favourable
season was on the wane. Baudin, fearing to attempt to reach Van
Diemen's Land, decided to commence his exploration upon the north-west
coast of New Holland. He forgot that he would thus maintain a
southerly course, so that his advance would coincide with that of the
season.
The coast of New Holland was discovered upon the 27th of May. It was
low, barren, and sandy. Geography Bay, Naturalist Cape, Depuch Creek,
and Piquet Point, were successively sighted and named. In the
last-named spot the naturalists landed, and reaped a rich harvest of
plants and shells.
Meantime, however, the violence of the waves carried away the two
vessels, and twenty-five of the crew were forced to spend several days
on shore, unable to obtain any but brackish water. They could not
succeed in killing any sort of game, and their only nourishment was a
species of samphire, containing a quantity of carbonate of soda and
acid juice.
A sloop which had been driven on shore by the force of the waves had
to be abandoned, together with guns, sabres, cartridges, cables,
tackle, and many other valuable articles.
"But the worst part of this last misfortune," says the narrative, "was
the loss of Vasse, of Dieppe, one of the most able of the crew of the
-Naturaliste-. Swept away by the waves three times in his efforts to
re-embark, he was finally swallowed up without the possibility of
assistance being rendered to him, or even the fact of his death being
ascertained--so violent were the waves, and so dark the night!"
The foul weather continued, the wind blew in hurricanes, fine rain
fell uninterruptedly, and the -Naturaliste- was lost to view in a
thick fog which prevailed until Timor was reached.
Upon reaching Rottnest Island--which he had named as a place of
rendezvous to Captain Hamilton in case of separation--Baudin, to the
surprise of every one, gave orders to make for Shark's Bay, upon the
coast of Endracht Island.
The coast of this part of New Holland is a succession of low and
almost level sandy barren lands, with grey or reddish soil,
intercepted here and there by slight ravines. The coast is almost
perpendicular, and is protected by inaccessible reefs; it well
deserves the name of "the iron coast," which was bestowed upon it by
the able hydrographer, Boullanger.
From Dirk Hartog Island (where Endracht Land commences), Doore Islands,
Bernier Islands (where troops of kangaroos were met with), and Dampier
roadstead, were successively sighted, as far as Shark's Bay, which was
thoroughly explored.
[Illustration: Native hut in Endracht Land. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
Upon leaving Endracht Land, which offers no attractions, De Witt
Land--extending from the North West Cape to Arnheim Land, over ten
degrees of latitude and fifteen of longitude--was thoroughly surveyed.
Much the same incidents and dangers were met with by the explorers as
they successively named Hermit and Forester islands, the latter with
volcanic soil. The Basseterre, in Geography channel--low lands, which
were avoided with difficulty--with Bedont and Lacepede Islands, Capes
Borda and Mollien, Champagny d'Arcole, Freycinet, Lucas, and other
islands, were seen and named.
"Amidst these numberless islands," says the narrative, "there was
little to please the navigators. The sun shines unprotected by any
clouds, and, except during the nocturnal storms, there is no movement
even of the water. Man appears to have fled from this ungrateful soil,
for no trace of his presence is to be seen."
It is difficult for the traveller, who turns in despair from the
inhospitable islands of this forsaken coast, where dangers of every
sort assail him, and no provisions are to be had, to reflect that this
barren country adjoins groups of Asiatic islands upon which nature has
lavished her treasures and delights with a liberal hand.
The discovery of the Buonaparte Archipelago completed the survey of
this miserable region. It is situated between 13 degrees 15 minutes S.
lat. and 123 degrees 30 minutes long. W. of Paris.
"The wretched food upon which we had lived since we left Mauritius had
tried the strongest constitutions. The ravages of scurvy had been
severely felt, our store of water was very low, and there was no
possibility of replenishing it in this miserable region. The time
approached for the return of the monsoon, and its accompanying storms
must be avoided on this coast; above all, we must procure a boat to
enable us to rejoin the -Naturaliste-."
Moved by all these considerations, the captain decided to direct his
course to Timor Island, and he anchored there upon the 22nd of August,
in the roadstead of Coupang.
It is unnecessary to enter into details of the reception accorded to
the navigators. Hospitality and kindness are ever valuable to the
recipients, but there is a sameness in an account of them which is
wearisome to the reader. We need only dwell upon the sore need of rest
for the suffering crew: ten of those who landed were in the worst
stage of scurvy, and many others had the swollen and inflamed gums
which precede the attack of this scourge of seamen.
Unfortunately, although the scurvy yielded to the remedies applied, it
was succeeded by dysentery, which in a few days laid low eighteen men.
[Illustration: King of the Island of Timor. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
At length, upon the 21st of September, the -Naturaliste- appeared. Her
captain had patiently awaited the arrival of the -Géographe- in
Shark's Bay, that being the rendezvous appointed by Baudin, but which
he had failed to keep. The officers availed themselves of this stay
thoroughly to survey the shores of Rottnest Island, and to explore the
Swan River, and Albrolhos or Houtman Rocks.
Two Dutch inscriptions, scratched upon tin plates, had been discovered
by Captain Hamelin upon Dirk Hartog Island. One recorded the passage,
upon the 25th of October, 1616, of the ship -Eendraght-, from
Amsterdam; and the other, the stay of the -Geelwinck- in this port in
1697, under command of Captain Vlaming.
"The result of the examinations made by the officers of the
-Naturaliste- was as follows:--The so-called Shark's Bay extends from
Cape Cuvier on the north, to Freycinet Gulf; the eastern coast is all
part of the mainland; and the western consists of the islet of Koks,
Bernier, Doore, and Dirk Hartog Islands, and a small portion of the
mainland. The peninsula of Péron occupies the centre of this extensive
bay, and to the east and west are the harbours of Hamelin and Henri
Freycinet."
Unfortunately even the sickness among their unfortunate crews did but
restore temporary concord between Captain Baudin and his staff. He
himself had been attacked by a fever, and for a few hours it was
supposed that he was dead.
Upon his recovery eight days later, however, he did not hesitate to
place one of his officers, M. Picquet, ensign, under arrest. All the
members of his staff disapproved of this action, and offered
repeatedly many flattering tokens of their esteem and regard to the
disgraced officer. As M. Picquet was made lieutenant upon his return
to France, it would appear that he was not in fault.
Captain Baudin had deviated from the instructions given him by the
Institute. He now proceeded to Van Diemen's Land, leaving Timor upon
the 13th of November, 1801. The French found themselves in sight of
the southern coast of this island exactly two months later; the
ravages of disease continued on board, and the number of victims was
considerable.
The two ships at length reached D'Entrecasteaux Strait, which had
escaped the notice of Tasman, Furneaux, Cook, Marion, Hunter and Bligh,
and the discovery of which was the result of a mistake, which might
have had dangerous consequences. The vessels had anchored in this spot
for the sake of obtaining water, and several boats were sent in search
of it.
"At half-past nine," says Péron, "we were at the mouth of Swan River.
This spot appeared to me to exceed in beauty and picturesque effect
anything that I had hitherto met with. Seven mountain ranges rise one
above the other, forming the background of the harbour; whilst on the
right and left lofty hills shut it in, and present the appearance of a
number of rounded capes and romantic creeks. Vegetation is most
luxuriant, the shores abound in hardy trees, growing so densely that
it is almost impossible to penetrate into the forest. Flocks of
paroquets and cockatoos, of most brilliant plumage, hover above them,
while the blue-ringed tomtits sport beneath their branches. The sea
was almost calm, and scarcely ruffled by the passage of the
innumerable black swans continuously passing to or fro."
[Illustration: The Swan River. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
All who went in search of a watering-place were not equally pleased
with their reception by the natives.
Captain Hamelin, in company with MM. Leschenant and Petit, and several
officers and sailors, had encountered some natives, to whom he offered
various presents. As they were about to re-embark the French were
assailed by a shower of stones, one of which wounded Captain Hamelin
severely. The natives brandished their assegais, and made many
threatening gestures, but could not provoke the strangers to retaliate
by a single shot--a most rare example of moderation and humanity!
"The geographical observations made by Admiral D'Entrecasteaux in Van
Diemen's Land are so wonderfully correct," says the narrative, "that
it would be scarcely possible to imagine anything more perfect of
their kind. Their principal author, M. Beautemps-Beaupré has indeed
fully merited the esteem of his fellow countrymen and the gratitude of
all navigators. In every case where investigation was possible, this
skilful engineer made sure of every point. His survey of the strait of
D'Entrecasteaux, and the numberless bays and channels comprised in it,
was especially thorough. Unfortunately his explorations did not extend
to that portion of Van Diemen's Land which lies north-east of the
strait, and which was only superficially examined by the French
boats."
It was to this portion of the coast that the hydrographers more
particularly directed their attention, in the hope that by adding the
results of their observations to that of their fellow-countrymen they
might gain a thorough knowledge of the coast. This undertaking, which
was to complete the results of D'Entrecasteaux's exertions, detained
the navigators until the 6th of February. The details and incidents of
such exploration are always alike, and offer little to interest the
general reader. For this reason we shall not dwell upon them, in spite
of their importance, except when they contain anecdotes of interest.
The -Naturaliste- and -Géographe- next proceeded to the exploration of
Banks' and Bass's straits.
"Upon the morning of the 6th of March we coasted the islets of
Taillefer and Schouten Island, at a good distance. Towards mid-day we
found ourselves opposite Forester's Cape, and our skilful geographer,
M. Boullanger, embarked in the long-boat, commanded by M. Maurouard,
to survey the coast. The ship was to follow a route parallel with that
of the boat, of which it was never to lose sight for a moment; but M.
Boullanger had scarcely been gone a quarter of an hour when Capt.
Baudin, without any apparent reason, tacked round and gained the more
open sea. The boat was lost to sight, and the coast was not neared
again until night was approaching. A strong breeze had arisen, which,
increasing every moment, added to the uncertainty of our movements.
Night fell, and the coast upon which we had abandoned our unhappy
comrades was hidden from our sight. The three following days were
vainly spent in the endeavour to find the missing boats."
This calm narration would appear to veil strong indignation against
Captain Baudin.
What can have been his motive for forsaking his sailors and two of his
ablest officers? This is a problem which the most attentive perusal of
Péron's narrative fails to elucidate.
To enter the straits of Banks and Bass was to tread in the footsteps
of the latter, and of Flinders, who had made these waters the special
field of their discoveries; but when, upon the 29th of March, 1802,
the -Géographe- commenced coasting the south-western shore of New
Holland, one portion of it only was known--that which extends from
Cape Leuwin to St. Peter and St. Francis Islands. The land stretching
from the eastern boundary of Nuytsland to Port Western had never yet
been trodden by an European foot. All the importance of this cruise is
apparent when we reflect that it was undertaken to decide whether New
Holland consisted of one island only, and whether any large rivers
flowed into the sea from it.
Latreille Island, Mount Tabor Cape, Cape Folard, Descartes Bay,
Bouffler Cape, Estaing Bay, Rivoli Bay, Mongo Cape, were all
successively sighted and named. An extraordinary take of dolphins had
delighted the crew, when a sail was seen upon the horizon. It was of
course supposed that it was the -Naturaliste-, from which the
-Géographe- had been separated by violent storms since the night of
the 7-8 March. As the vessel was making rapid way, she was soon
abreast of the -Géographe-. She carried the English colours. It was
the -Investigator-, under command of Captain Flinders, eight months
from Europe, sent for the completion of the survey of New Holland.
Flinders had been engaged for three months in the exploration of the
coast. He, too, had suffered from storms and tempest in Bass's Strait;
during one of the latter he had lost a boat, containing eight men and
his chief officer.
[Illustration: A sail was seen on the horizon.]
The -Géographe- visited in succession Cape Crêtet, the Peninsula of
Fleurien (which is about twenty miles in extent), the Gulf of St.
Vincent (so called by Flinders), Kangaroo Island, Althorp Islands,
Spencer Gulf--upon the western coast of which is Port Lincoln, the
finest and safest harbour in New Holland--and the islands of St.
Francis and St. Peter. Certainly Captain Baudin, in order to render
this hydrographical survey complete, should have followed out his
instructions, and penetrated beyond St. Peter and St. Francis Islands.
The weather, however, was too unpropitious, and this exploration was
reserved for a future expedition.
Scurvy meantime made fearful ravages amongst the adventurers. More
than half the crew were incapable of service. Two only of the helmsmen
were in a fit condition for duty. How could anything else be expected
in a vessel which was not provided with either wine or brandy, but was
provisioned only with foetid water, biscuits infested with maggots,
and putrid meats, the mere smell of which was injurious?
Winter, too, had set in in the southern hemisphere, and the crews were
in sore need of rest. The nearest harbour was Port Jackson, and the
shortest passage thither was by Bass's Strait. Baudin, who always
appears to have disliked following a beaten track, thought differently,
and gave orders for doubling the southern extremity of Van Diemen's
Land.
Upon the 20th of May anchor was cast in Adventure Bay. The sick who
could be moved were carried on shore, where water was plentiful. But
the stormy waters were no longer passable; a thick fog prevailed, and
only the sound of the waves breaking upon the shore saved the vessels
from running aground. The number of sick increased. The ocean claimed
a fresh victim each succeeding day. Upon the 4th of June there were
only six men equal to their work, and the tempest increased in fury,
yet the -Géographe- escaped destruction once more!
[Illustration: The sick were carried on shore.]
Upon the 17th of June a vessel was signalled, and from her captain the
navigators learned that the -Naturaliste-, after waiting vainly for
her consort at Port Jackson, had gone in search of her--that the
abandoned boat had been rescued by an English vessel, and the crew had
been received upon the -Naturaliste-.
The -Géographe- was awaited with eager impatience at Port Jackson,
where help of every kind was prepared for her.
The -Géographe- was for three days within reach of Port Jackson, and
yet unable to enter the harbour, for want of able-bodied seamen to
work her. An English sloop, with a pilot, and the necessary men for
working the vessel, was, however, sent to the rescue.
The entrance to Port Jackson is only two miles in width, but it widens
until it forms a large harbour containing water enough for the largest
ships, and space enough to accommodate all comers in perfect safety. A
thousand ships of the line might easily anchor there, according to
Commodore Philips' report.
"Towards the centre of this magnificent port, and upon its southern
coast, the town of Sydney is situated. Built upon two adjacent hills,
and watered by a small river which runs through it, this rising town
presents a pleasant and picturesque appearance.
"The eye is at once struck by the fortifications, and the hospital,
which is large enough to contain two or three hundred sick, and was
brought from England in pieces by Commodore Philips. Immense
warehouses, for the reception of the cargoes of the largest vessels,
are built upon the shore. Ships of all kinds were being constructed in
the yards from the wood of the country."
[Illustration: View of Sydney. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
With a sentiment of respect, which almost amounts to veneration, the
sloop in which M. Bass made the discovery of the strait which
separates Tasmania from New Holland is preserved. Snuff-boxes made of
the wood of her keel are valued as relics by their possessors; and the
governor of the fort could think of no more acceptable present for
Captain Baudin than a piece of the wood of this famous vessel, mounted
in silver, upon which the chief details of the discovery of Bass's
Straits were engraved. Equally worthy of admiration were the prison
(capable of lodging two hundred prisoners), the wine and provision
warehouses, the exercising ground (overlooked by the governor's house),
the barracks, observatory, and the English church, of which the
foundations were at this time but just laid.
"The great change in the conduct and condition of the convicts was not
less interesting.
"We found new cause for surprise in the population of the colony. A
more worthy subject for the reflection of a philosopher or statesman
never existed--no brighter example of the influence of social
institutions can be imagined--than that afforded on the distant shores
of which we are speaking. Here are to be found the formidable ruffians
who in a civilized country were the terror of their government.
Transported to these foreign shores, ejected from European society,
and placed from their first arrival between the certainty of
punishment on the one hand and the hope of a better fate in store for
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(
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486
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961
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974
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.
997
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1000