testing our instruments."
This remark proves that La Perouse was capable of doing justice to his
predecessors. And we shall have other opportunities of observing that
quality in him.
While the astronomers devoted themselves to estimating the regularity
of the astronomical watches, the naturalists, with several officers,
ascended the Peak, and collected some curious plants. Monneron
succeeded in measuring this mountain with much greater accuracy than
his predecessors, Herberdeen, Feuillée, Bouguer, Verdun, and Borda,
who calculated its height respectively at 2409, 2213, 2100, and 1904
fathoms. Unfortunately his work, which would have settled the
discussion, never reached France.
Upon the 16th of October, the isles, or rather rocks, of Marten Vas
were seen. La Perouse ascertained their position, and afterwards made
for the nearest, Trinity Island, which was only some nine leagues to
the west. The commander of the expedition sent a sloop on shore in
charge of an officer, in the hope of finding water, wood, and
provisions. The officer had an interview with the Portuguese governor,
whose garrison consisted of about two hundred men, fifteen of whom
wore uniforms, and the rest merely shirts. The poverty of the land was
obvious, and the French re-embarked without having obtained anything.
After a vain search for Ascension Island, the expedition reached Saint
Catherine's Island, off the coast of Brazil.
"After ninety-six days' navigation," we read in the narrative of the
voyage published by General Millet-Mureau, "we had not one case of
illness on board. The health of the crew had remained unimpaired by
change of climate, rain, and fog; but our provisions were of
first-class quality; I neglected none of the precautions which
experience and prudence suggested to me; and above all, we kept up our
spirits by encouraging dancing every evening among the crew, whenever
the weather permitted, from eight o'clock till ten."
Saint Catherine's Island, of which we have more than once had occasion
to speak in the course of this narrative, extends from 27 degrees 19
minutes 10 seconds S. lat. to 27 degrees 49 minutes. It is only two
leagues wide, and is divided in its narrowest part from the mainland
by a channel of two hundred fathoms. The town of Nostra Señora del
Desterra, the capital of the colony, where the governor resides, is
built at the point of this narrow entrance. The population amounts, at
the utmost, to three thousand, and there are about four hundred houses.
The appearance of the town is very pleasant. According to Frezier's
account, this island was a refuge in 1712 for the vagabonds who fled
there from different parts of Brazil. They were Portuguese subjects in
name only, and recognized no other authority. The country is so
fertile that the inhabitants can live quite independently of any
neighbouring colony. The ships in the harbour gave them shirts and
coats, of which they had absolutely none, in exchange for provisions.
This island is extremely fertile, and the soil could easily be made to
grow sugar-cane, but the inhabitants are so poor that they cannot buy
the needful slaves for the labour.
The French vessels found all that they needed in this spot, and their
officers were cordially received by the Portuguese authorities.
The following fact will give an idea of the hospitality of these
people. "My boat," says La Perouse, "having been upset in a creek
where I was having wood cut, the inhabitants, after assisting in
saving it, insisted on our shipwrecked sailors using their beds, and
themselves slept on mats upon the floor of the room where they
received them so hospitably. A few days later they brought to my
vessel the sails, mast, grapnel, and flag of the boat, which would
have been of great use to them for their pirogues."
The -Boussole- and the -Astrolabe- weighed anchor upon the 19th of
November, and directed their course to Cape Horn. After a violent
storm, during which the frigates behaved very well, and after forty
days' fruitless search for the large island discovered by a Frenchman,
Antoine de la Roche, and called Georgia by Captain Cook, La Perouse
crossed the Straits of Lemaire. Finding the winds favourable, he
decided not to remain in Good Success Bay at this advanced season of
the year, but immediately to double Cape Horn, in the hope of avoiding
a possible delay that would have exposed his ships to injury and his
crew to useless fatigue.
The friendly demonstrations of the Fuegians, the abundance of whales,
which had never before been disturbed, the immense flocks of albatross
and petrels, did not change his resolve. Cape Horn was rounded more
easily than could have been expected. Upon the 9th of February the
expedition was in the Straits of Magellan, and upon the 24th anchor
was cast in Concepcion Harbour, which La Perouse preferred to that of
Juan Fernandez, on account of the exhaustion of his provisions. The
robust health of the crews astonished the Spanish governor. Possibly
this was the first time a vessel had rounded Cape Horn and arrived in
Chili without any sick on board.
The town, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1757, had been
rebuilt three leagues from the sea, upon the shore of the river Biobio.
The houses are of one storey, and the town of La Concepcion contains
ten thousand inhabitants. The bay is one of the most commodious in the
world; the sea is smooth, and almost free from currents. This part of
Chili is wonderfully fertile. One ear of corn reproduces sixty; vines
are equally prolific; and the country teems with innumerable flocks,
which multiply beyond all credence.
In spite of these prosperous conditions the country made no progress,
on account of the prohibitive system which at this time prevailed.
Chili, with its productions, which might easily have fed the half of
Europe; its wool, which might have sufficed for the manufactures of
France and England; its meats, which might have been preserved--had no
commerce whatever. At the same time the duty upon imported goods was
excessive, so that living was very dear. The middle class, as the
"bourgeoisie" are now called, did not exist; the population consisted
of two classes, the rich and the poor, as the following passage
shows:--
"The dress of the women consists of a plaited skirt of the ancient
gold or silver tissues which were formerly manufactured at Lyons.
These petticoats, which are kept for grand occasions, are often
inherited like diamonds, and are handed down from generation to
generation. They are only worn by a small number of the higher class;
the others have scarcely the means of clothing themselves at all."
[Illustration: Costumes of the inhabitants of Conception.]
We will not follow La Perouse into his details of the enthusiastic
reception given to him, and we will pass over in silence his
description of balls and toilettes, which never for a moment induced
him to lose sight of the object of his voyage. So far the expedition
had only passed through regions often before visited by Europeans. It
was now about to penetrate to less-known realms. Anchor was raised
upon the 15th of March, and, after a voyage entirely free from
incident, the two frigates anchored upon the 9th of April in Cook's
Bay, Easter Island.
La Perouse affirms that Mr. Hodges, the painter, who accompanied the
celebrated English navigator, has given a very unjust representation
of the inhabitants. Generally their physiognomies are pleasing, but
they cannot be said to have much character.
This is by no means the only point upon which the French navigator
differs from Captain Cook. He believed the famous statues, of which
one of the draughtsmen made an excellent sketch, to have been the work
of the present generation, whose numbers he estimates at two thousand.
It appeared to him also that the absolute lack of trees, and therefore
of lakes and rivers, was due to the extravagant waste of wood by the
earlier races. No disagreeable incident occurred during the stay.
Robberies, it is true, were frequent; but as the French intended
remaining only one day on the island, they thought it superfluous to
give the population stricter ideas of honesty.
[Illustration: Inhabitants of Easter Island.]
After leaving Easter Island, upon the 10th of April, La Perouse
followed much the same route as Cook had done in 1777, when he sailed
from Tahiti to the American coast; but he was a hundred leagues
farther west. La Perouse indulged in the hope of making discoveries in
this little-known region of the Pacific Ocean, and he promised to
reward the sailor who should first sight land. Upon the 29th of May
the Hawaian archipelago was reached.
The naval watches proved of great assistance upon this occasion, and
justified the opinion entertained of them. Upon reaching the Sandwich
Islands La Perouse found a difference of five degrees between the
longitude given and that obtained by him. Without the watches he would
have placed this group five degrees too far east. This explains why
the islands discovered by the Spanish--Mendana, Queros, &c.--are much
too near the American coast, and also the non-existence of the group
called by the Spaniards La Mesa, Los Majos, and La Disgraceada, which
there is every reason to suppose was none other than the Sandwich
archipelago, as Mesa in Spanish means "table," and Captain King
compares the mountain called Mauna Loa to a plateau or table-land. He
did not, however, trust to conjecture; he crossed the reputed site of
Los Majos, and found not the slightest trace of land.
"The aspect of Monee," says La Perouse, "is delightful. We saw water
tumbling in cascades from the summit of the mountains, and reaching
the sea after watering the Indian plantations, of which there are so
many that each village extends over three or four leagues. All the
huts are, however, on the sea-shore; and the mountains are so close
that the habitable portion of the land appeared to me to be less than
half a league in depth. One must be a sailor, and, like us, have been
reduced to a bottle of water per day in a burning climate, to realize
the sensations we experienced. The trees which crowned the mountains,
the green fields, the banana-trees which surrounded the dwellings, all
combined to charm our senses with an inexpressible delight; but the
sea broke violently on the shore, and, like Tantalus, we were obliged
to devour with our eyes what was completely beyond our reach."
The two frigates had no sooner anchored than they were surrounded by
pirogues, full of natives, offering pigs, potatoes, bananas, "taro,"
&c. Clever traders, they attached most value to bits of old iron rings.
Their acquaintance with iron and its use, for which they were not
indebted to Cook, is another proof that this people had known the
Spaniards, to whom the discovery of the group is probably due.
The welcome accorded to La Perouse was most cordial, in spite of the
military force by which he had thought proper to protect himself.
Although the French were the first to land on Monee Island, La Perouse
did not think it his duty to take possession.
"The usual European custom in such matters," he says, "is perfectly
ridiculous. Philosophers may well sigh when they see men, simply
because they have guns and bayonets, thinking nothing of sixty
thousand of their fellow-men, and, without the least respect for the
most sacred rights, looking upon a land whose inhabitants have
cultivated it in the sweat of the brow, and whose ancestors lie buried
there, as an object fit for conquest."
La Perouse does not pause to give any details about the inhabitants of
the Sandwich Islands. He only passed a few hours there, whilst the
English remained for four months. He therefore rightly refers to
Captain Cook's narrative.
During their short stay the French bought more than a hundred pigs,
mats, fruits, a pirogue, ornaments made of feathers and shells, and
handsome helmets decorated with feathers.
The instructions furnished La Perouse before his departure enjoined
him to survey the American coast, of which a portion, extending to
Mount Elias had, with the exception of Nootka port, been merely
sighted by Captain Cook.
On the 23rd of June he reached 60 degrees N. lat., and, in the midst
of a long chain of snow-covered mountains, recognized the Mount Elias
of Behring. After skirting along the coast for some time, La Perouse
sent three boats, under command of one of his officers, M. de Monte,
who discovered a large bay, to which he gave his name.
Following the coast at a short distance, surveys were taken, which
were uninterrupted as far as an important river, which received the
name of Behring. Apparently it was that to which Cook had given this
name.
Upon the 2nd of July, in 58 degrees 36 minutes lat., and 140 degrees 3
minutes long., what appeared to be a fine bay was discovered. Boats,
under command of MM. de Pierrevert, de Flassan, and Boutevilliers,
were sent to examine it.
Their report being favourable, the two frigates arrived at the
entrance of the bay, but the -Astrolabe- was driven back to the open
sea by a strong current, and the -Boussole- was forced to join her. At
six o'clock in the morning, after a night passed under sail, the
vessels again approached the bay. "But," says the narrative, "at seven
in the morning, when we were close to it, the wind veered so suddenly
to W.N.W. and N.N.W., that we were forced to give way, and even to
bring our ships to the wind. Fortunately the tide carried our frigates
into the bay, and we escaped the rocks on the east by half a pistol's
range. I anchored in three and a half fathoms, with a rocky bottom,
half a cable's length from shore. The -Astrolabe- had anchored in the
same depth, and upon a similar bottom. In all the thirty years I have
spent at sea, I have never seen two vessels in greater danger. Our
situation would have been safe had we not anchored upon a rocky bottom,
which extended several cables' length around us, and which was
different from what MM. de Flasson and Boutevilliers had reported. We
had no time to make reflections; it was above everything necessary to
get out of our dangerous anchorage, to which the rapidity of the
current was a great obstacle." However, by dint of much skilful
tacking, La Perouse succeeded.
Ever since their entry into the bay the vessels had been surrounded by
pirogues swarming with savages. The natives showed a decided
preference for iron, in exchange for fish and the skins of otters and
other animals. After a few days' stay their number increased rapidly,
and they became, if not dangerous, at least a nuisance.
La Perouse established an observatory upon one of the islands in the
bay, and set up tents for the sail makers and smiths. Although these
posts were most carefully watched, the natives, gliding along the
ground like snakes, scarcely stirring a leaf, managed in spite of our
sentinels to commit various thefts; and one night they were clever
enough to enter the tent where MM. de Launston and Darbaud (who were
in charge of the observatory) slept. They carried off a silver-mounted
gun, as well as the clothes belonging to the two officers, who had
placed them for safety under their pillows. They escaped the notice of
a guard of twelve men, and the two officers were not even awakened.
[Illustration: Typical native of the Port des Français.]
But now the stay of the expedition in this port drew to a close. The
soundings, surveys, plans, and astronomical observations were
completed; but, before finally leaving the island, La Perouse wished
thoroughly to explore the depths of the bay. He imagined that some
large river must empty itself into it, which would enable him to
penetrate into the interior; but in all the openings he entered he
found only vast glaciers, which extended to the very summit of Fair
Weather Mount.
No accident or sickness marred the success which had so far attended
the expedition.
"We thought ourselves," says La Perouse, "the most fortunate of
navigators, for having reached so great a distance from Europe without
having had one invalid or a single sufferer from scurvy. But the
greatest misfortune, and one it was impossible to foresee, now awaited
us."
Upon the chart of the Port des Français, drawn up by MM. Monneron and
Bernizet, the soundings alone remained to be indicated. The naval
officers were bound to accomplish the task, and three boats, under the
orders of MM. d'Escures, de Marchainville, and Boutin, were selected
for the undertaking. La Perouse, acquainted with the somewhat rash
zeal of M. d'Escures, advised him on the eve of departure to act with
most careful prudence, and only to attempt the soundings in the
channel if the sea were smooth.
The boats left at six o'clock in the morning. It was as much a party
of pleasure as of duty, as the crews were to hunt, and breakfast under
the trees.
"At ten in the morning," says La Perouse, "I saw our little boat
return. Somewhat surprised, for I had not expected it so soon, I asked
M. Boutin, before he came on deck, whether he had any news. At first I
feared an attack from the natives, and M. Boutin's expression was not
calculated to reassure me, for it was profoundly sad.
"He soon related to me the terrible disaster he had just witnessed,
and from which he had escaped by the presence of mind which enabled
him to see the best course to pursue in the dreadful peril. Carried,
whilst following his commander, into the midst of breakers caused by
the tide rushing with a speed of three or four leagues per hour out of
the channel, he thought he could place his boat stern on the breakers;
the boat yielding to their force, and being impelled by the tide,
would not fill, but would be carried safely outside.
"Soon, however, he saw breakers ahead of his boat, and found himself
in the open sea. More concerned for the safety of his companions than
for his own, he again approached the breakers, and in the hope of
saving some life he again braved them, but was repulsed by the tide;
finally, he mounted on M. Mouton's shoulder, in the hope of finding a
wider opening. All was in vain; everything had been swallowed up, and
M. Boutin returned with the ebb of the tide.
"The sea becoming quieter, this officer had still some hope of finding
the boat of the -Astrolabe-; he had only witnessed the loss of ours. M.
de Marchainville was now a quarter of a mile from the danger, that is
to say, in a sea as still as the quietest harbour; but, impelled by an
imprudent generosity--for all help was quite impossible under the
circumstances--this rash young officer, being too high-spirited and
too courageous to pause in presence of his friends' danger, flew to
their help, threw himself among the breakers, and, a victim to his
imprudence and disregard of his chief's orders, perished with him.
"M. de Langle shortly after came on board my ship, as much overcome as
myself, and informed me with tears that the misfortune was even
greater than I had supposed. We had always made a point, ever since
leaving France, of never allowing the two brothers, M. la Borde
Marchainville and M. la Borde Boutevilliers, to go on the same service,
but on this one occasion he had yielded, as they desired to hunt
together; and it was almost wholly on this account that we had, both
of us, directed our boats in the way we did, thinking there was as
little danger as there is in Brest Harbour in fine weather.
"Several boats were at once despatched in search of the shipwrecked
crew. Rewards were offered to the natives if they saved any one; but
the return of the sloops destroyed all hope. All had perished."
[Illustration: Shipwreck of French boats outside the Port des Français.
(Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
Eighteen days after this catastrophe, the two frigates left the Port
des Français. La Perouse erected a monument to the memory of his
unfortunate countrymen, in the middle of the bay, on an island which
he called the Cenotaph. It bore the following inscription:--
"At the entrance of this port, twenty-one brave sailors perished.
Whoever you are, mingle your tears with ours."
A bottle, containing an account of this deplorable accident, was
buried at the foot of the monument.
The Port des Français, which is situated in 58 degrees 37 minutes N.
lat., and 139 degrees 50 minutes W. long., presents many advantages,
but also many inconveniences--foremost amongst them the currents of
the channel. The climate is much milder than in Hudson's Bay, which is
in the same latitude. The vegetation is vigorous; pines six feet in
girth, and a hundred and forty in height, are not rare. Celery, sorrel,
lupine, wild pea, chicory, and mimulus are met with in every direction,
as well as many pot-herbs, the use of which helped to keep the crews
in health.
The sea supplied abundance of salmon, trout, cod, and plaice.
In the woods are found black and brown bears, the lynx, ermine, weasel,
minever, squirrel, marmot, beaver, fox, elk, and the wild goat. The
most precious skins are those of the otter, wolf, and sea-bear.
"But if the vegetable and animal productions of this country," says La
Perouse, "are similar to those of many others, its aspect cannot be
compared with them, and I doubt whether the deep valleys of the Alps
and Pyrenees offer so terrible, and at the same time so picturesque, a
prospect. Were it not at one of the extremities of the world, it
should be visited by every one."
As to the inhabitants, La Perouse gives an account of them which is
worth preserving.
"The Indians in their pirogues surrounded our frigates, hovering about
for three or four hours before beginning to exchange a few fish, or
two or three otter skins; they seized every opportunity of robbing us;
they tore off all the iron which could be easily carried away, and
they took every precaution to elude our vigilance at night. I invited
some of the principal personages on board my frigate, and loaded them
with presents; and the very men I distinguished in this manner did not
scruple to steal a nail or an old pair of trousers. Whenever they
assumed a particularly lively and pleasant air, I was convinced that
they had committed a theft, and I often pretended not to see it."
The women make an opening in the thick part of the lower lip, the
whole length of the jaw. They wear a sort of wooden bowl without a
handle, which rests on the gums, "to which this split lip forms an
outer cushion, in such a way that the lower part of the mouth
protrudes some two or three inches."
The forced stay which La Perouse had just made in Port des Français
prevented his stopping elsewhere and reconnoitring the indentations of
the coast, for at all hazards he was to reach China during the month
of February, in order to secure the following summer for the survey of
the coast of Tartary.
He successively reconnoitred, upon this coast, Cross Sound, where the
high snow-covered mountains cease, Cook's Island Bay, Engamio Cape,
low land partly submerged and containing Mount Hyacinthine, Mount
Edgecomb of Cook, Norfolk Sound, where the following year the English
navigator Dixon was to anchor, ports Necker and Guibert, Cape
Tschiri-Kow, Croyère Islands, so called after the brother of the
famous geographer Delisle, companion of Tschiri-Kow, the San Carlos
Islands, La Touche Bay, and Cape Hector.
La Perouse imagined that these various coast lines were formed by a
vast archipelago; and in this he was correct. They contained George
III.'s Island, Prince of Wales and Queen Charlotte's Islands--Cape
Hector forming the southern extremity of the latter.
The season was far advanced, and too short a time remained at La
Perouse's disposal to allow of his making detailed observations of
these countries; but his instinct had justly led him to imagine that
the series of points he had discovered indicated a group of islands,
and not a continent. Beyond Cape Fleurien, which formed the extremity
of an elevated island, he passed several groups, which he named
Sartines, and then returning, he reached Nootka Sound on the 25th of
August. He afterwards visited various parts of the continent which
Cook had been unable to approach, and which had left a blank on his
chart. This navigation was attended with a certain amount of danger,
on account of the currents, "which rendered it impossible to make more
than three knots an hour at a distance of five leagues from land."
Upon the 5th of September new islets were discovered, about a league
from Cape Blanco, to which the captain gave the name of Necker Islands.
The fog was very thick, and more than once the fear of running upon
some islet or rock, the existence of which could not be suspected,
obliged the vessels to deviate from the land. Until they reached
Monterey Bay the weather continued bad. At that port La Perouse found
two Spanish vessels.
At this time Monterey Bay abounded in whales, and the sea was
literally covered with pelicans, which were very common upon the
Californian coast.
A garrison of two hundred and eighty men was sufficient to keep in
order a population of fifty thousand Indians, wandering about this
part of America. It must be admitted that these Indians were usually
small and insignificant, and not endowed with that love of
independence which characterizes the northern tribes; and, unlike them,
they have no appreciation of art, and no industry.
"These Indians," says the narrative, "are very expert in the use of
the bow and arrow. They killed the smallest birds in our presence. It
is true that they approach them with wonderful patience, hiding
themselves, gliding, somehow, close to their prey, and aiming at them
only when within fifteen paces.
"Their skill in the capture of larger animals is even more wonderful.
We saw an Indian with a stag's head over his own, walking on all fours,
appearing to graze, and carrying out the pantomime with such truth to
life that our hunters would have fired at him at thirty paces had they
not been prevented. By this means the natives approach quite close to
a herd of deer, and then kill them with arrows."
[Illustration: "An Indian with a stag's head over his own."]
La Perouse gave many details of the presidency of Loretto and of the
Californian missions, but these are rather of historical interest, and
are out of place in a work of this kind. His remarks upon the
fertility of the country are more within our programme. "The harvest
of maize, barley, corn, and peas," he says, "is comparable only to
that of Chili. Our European husbandmen could not conceive of such
abundance. The most moderate yield of corn is at the rate of from
seventy and eighty to one, and the largest from sixty to a hundred."
Upon the 22nd of September the two frigates returned to sea, after a
cordial welcome from the Spanish governor and the missionaries. They
carried with them a quantity of provisions of all sorts, which would
be of the greatest value to them during the long trip to be taken
before reaching Macao.
The portion of the ocean now to be crossed by the French was almost
unknown. The Spaniards had navigated it previously, but their
political jealousy prevented their publishing the discoveries and
observations they had made. La Perouse wished to steer S.W. as far as
28 degrees lat., where some geographers had placed the island of
Nuestra Señora-de-la-Gorta.
But he looked for it in vain during a long and difficult cruise, with
contrary winds, which sorely tried the patience of the navigators.
"We were daily reminded," he says, "by the condition of our sails and
rigging, that we had been sixteen months at sea. Our ropes gave way,
and the sail makers could not repair the sails, which were fairly worn
out."
Upon the 6th of November a small island, or rather rock, some five
hundred fathoms long, upon which not a single tree grew, and which was
thickly covered with guano, was discovered. It was named Necker Island,
and is in 166 degrees 52 minutes long. W. of Paris, and 23 degrees 34
minutes N. lat.
Never had the expedition seen a more lovely sea, or a more exquisite
night, when suddenly, at about half-past one in the morning, breakers
were perceived two cable lengths ahead of the -Boussole-. The sea,
only broken here and there by a slight ripple, was so calm that it
scarcely made any sound. The ship's course was altered immediately;
but the manoeuvre took time, and when it was accomplished the vessel
was but a cable's length off the rocks.
"We had just escaped one of the most imminent dangers to which
navigators are subject," says La Perouse, "and I must do my crews the
justice to say that less disorder and confusion in such a position
would have been impossible. The slightest neglect in the execution of
the manoeuvres which were necessary to carry us from the breakers
would have been fatal."
These rocks were unknown; it was therefore needful to determine their
exact position, for the safety of succeeding navigators. La Perouse,
after fulfilling this duty, named them the "Reef of the French
Frigates."
Upon the 14th of December the -Astrolabe- and the -Boussole- sighted
the Mariana Islands. A landing was effected upon the volcanic island
of Assumption. Here the lava had formed ravines and precipices,
bordered by a few stunted cocoa-nut trees, alternately with tropical
creepers and a few shrubs. It was almost impossible to advance a
couple of hundred yards in an hour. Landing and re-embarkation were
difficult, and the few cocoa-nut shells and bananas, of a new variety,
which the naturalists obtained, were not worth the risk.
It was impossible to remain longer in this archipelago if China were
to be reached before the vessels returned to Europe. They were to take
back an account of the results of the expedition upon the American
coast, and of the crossing to Macao.
After taking the position of the Bashees, without stopping, La Perouse
sighted the coast of China, and next day cast anchor in the roadstead
of Macao.
Here La Perouse met with a small French cutter, commanded by M. de
Richery, midshipman, whose business it was to cruise about the eastern
coast, and protect French trade.
The town of Macao is so well known that it is needless for us to give
La Perouse's description of it. The constant outrages and humiliations
to which Europeans were daily subjected under the most despotic and
cowardly government in the world, aroused the indignation of the
French captain, and made him heartily wish that an international
expedition might put a stop to so intolerable a state of things.
The furs which had been collected upon the American coasts were sold
at Macao for ten thousand piastres. The sum produced should have been
divided among the crews, and the head of the Swedish company undertook
to ship it at Mauritius; but the unfortunate sailors themselves were
never to receive the money.
Leaving Macao on the 5th of February, the vessels directed their
course to Manilla, and, after sighting the shoals of Pratas, Bulinao,
Manseloq, and Marivelle, wrongly placed upon D'Après' maps, they were
forced to put into the port of Marivelle, to wait for better winds and
more favourable currents. Although Marivelle is only one league to
windward of Cavito, three days were consumed in reaching the latter
port.
"We found," says the narrative, "different houses where we could
repair our sails, salt our provisions, construct two boats, lodge the
naturalists and geographical engineers, and the governor kindly lent
us his own for the establishment of our observatory. We enjoyed as
much liberty as if we had been in the country; and in the market and
arsenal we found the same resources as in the best European ports."
Cavito, the second town of the Philippine islands, and the capital of
the province of the same name, was then but a miserable village, where
only Spanish military and government officers resided; but although
the town was nothing but a mass of ruins, it was none the less a port,
and afforded the French every possible resource. Upon the morrow of
his arrival La Perouse, accompanied by De Langle and his principal
officers, paid a visit to the governor, reaching Manila by boat.
"The environs of Manila are delightful," he says. "A most beautiful
river flows through it, separating into different canals, one of which
leads to the famous Bay Lake, which is distant seven leagues in the
interior, surrounded by more than a hundred Indian settlements in the
midst of a most fertile territory.
"Manila, built upon the shore of the bay of that name, which is more
than twenty-five leagues in circumference, is at the mouth of a river
navigable as far as the lake in which it rises. It is probably the
most fortunately situated town in the whole world. Provisions are
found there in the greatest profusion, and very cheap; but clothing,
European cutlery, and furniture fetch an enormous price.
"Want of competition, the prohibitive tariffs, and commercial
restrictions of every sort, tend to make the productions and
manufactured goods of India and China at least as dear as in Europe;
and although the various duties on imports bring to the treasury some
eight hundred thousand piastres, the colony costs the Spanish
government at least fifteen hundred thousand francs per annum, which
are sent from Mexico. The immense possessions of the Spanish in
America have prevented the government from bestowing much attention
upon the Philippines. They are still like the possessions of great
lords, which remain uncultivated, though they might provide fortunes
for many families.
"I do not hesitate to state, that a great nation with no colony but
the Philippine Islands, supposing that colony to be as well governed
as possible, need not envy all the European colonies in Africa and
America."
Upon the 9th of April--after having heard of the arrival at Macao of M.
d'Entrecasteaux, who had come from Mauritius with the contrary monsoon,
and received despatches from Europe by the frigate -La Subtile-, MM.
Guyet, midshipman, and Le Gobien, naval officer, and a reinforcement
of eight sailors--the two vessels set out for the coast of China.
Upon the 21st La Perouse sighted Formosa, and at once entered the
channel which separates that island from China. He discovered a very
dangerous bank unknown to navigators, and carefully examined the
soundings and approaches. Shortly afterwards he passed in front of the
bay of the ancient Dutch fort of Zealand, where the capital of the
island, Tai-wan, is situated.
The monsoon was unfavourable for ascending the channel, and La Perouse
therefore resolved to pass to the east of the island. He rectified the
position of the Pescadores Islands, a mass of rocks which assume
various shapes, reconnoitred the small island of Botol-Tabaco-Xima,
where no navigator had landed, coasted Kinin Island, which forms part
of the kingdom of Liken, whose inhabitants are neither Chinese nor
Japanese, but appear to be of both races, and sighted Hoa-pinsu and
Tiaoy-su Islands. The latter form part of the Liken Archipelago, known
only through the letters of Father Goubil, a Jesuit.
The frigates then entered the Eastern Sea, and directed their course
to the channel which divides China and Japan. La Perouse there
encountered fogs as thick as those which prevail upon the coast of
Labrador, with variable and violent currents. The first point of
interest before entering the Sea of Japan was Quelpaert Island, first
made known to Europeans by the shipwreck of the -Sparrow Hawk- upon
its coast in 1635. La Perouse determined its southerly extremity, and
surveyed it for a distance of twelve leagues.
"It is scarcely possible," he says, "to find an island of pleasanter
aspect. A peak of about four thousand five hundred feet high, visible
at a distance of eighteen or twenty leagues, rises in the centre of
the island; the land slopes gently from thence to the sea, so that the
houses look like an amphitheatre. The soil seemed to be highly
cultivated. By the aid of our glasses we clearly made out the
divisions of the fields. They are in very small allotments, which
augurs a large population. The different shades of the various
cultivated patches give a very agreeable variety to the view."
The explorers had ample opportunity for taking the longitude and
latitude, which was the more important, as no European vessel had
navigated these seas, which were only indicated upon the maps in
accordance with the Chinese and Japanese maps published by the Jesuits.
Upon the 25th of May the frigates entered the channel of Corea, which
was minutely explored, and in which soundings were taken every half
hour.
As it was possible to keep close in shore, it was easy to observe some
fortifications in the European style, and to note all their details.
On the 27th an island was perceived which was not to be found upon any
map, and which seemed to be about twenty leagues distant from the
coast of Corea. It received the name of Dagelet Island.
The course was now directed towards Japan, but it was very slow, on
account of the contrary winds that prevailed.
On the 6th of June Cape Noto and the island of Tsus Sima were
discovered.
"Cape Noto, upon the Japanese coast," says La Perouse, "is a point on
which geographers may rely. Reckoning from it to Cape Kona on the
eastern coast, the position of which was determined by Captain King,
the width of the northern half of the empire may be ascertained. Our
observations have the greater value for geographers as they determine
the width of the Gulf of Tartary, to which I now directed my course."
[Illustration: Map of the coast of Asia, after the map of La Pérouse's
voyage published by General Millet-Mureau.]
Upon the 11th of June La Perouse sighted Tartary. He made land
precisely at the boundary between the Corea and Manchuria. The
mountains appeared to be six or seven thousand feet high. A small
quantity of snow was visible on the summits. No trace of inhabitants
or cultivation could be seen; nor was any river's mouth found upon a
length of coast extending for forty leagues. A halt would have been
desirable, to enable the naturalists and lithologists to make
observations.
"Up to the 14th of June the coast had run to the N.E. by N. We were
now in 44 degrees lat., and had reached the degree which geographers
assign for the so-called Strait of Tessoy, but we were five degrees
farther west than the longitude given for this spot. These five
degrees should be taken from Tartary, and added to the channel which
separates it from the islands north of Japan."
Whilst coasting along this shore no sign of habitation had been
perceived--not a pirogue left the shore. The country, although covered
with magnificent trees and luxuriant vegetation, appeared to be
uninhabited.
On the 23rd of June the -Boussole- and the -Astrolabe- cast anchor in
a bay situated in 45 degrees 13 minutes N. lat. and 135 degrees 9
minutes E. long. It was named Ternay Bay.
"We burned with impatience," say La Perouse, "to reconnoitre this land,
which had occupied our imagination ever since we left France. It was
the only portion of the globe which had escaped the indefatigable
activity of Captain Cook; and perhaps we owe the small advantage of
having first landed there to the sad event which ended his days.
"This roadstead was formed of five little creeks, separated one from
the other by hillocks covered with trees of a more delicate and varied
green than is to be seen in France in the brightest spring. Before our
boats reached the shore, our glasses had been directed to the coast,
but we perceived nothing but stags and bears, quietly grazing. Our
impatience to disembark increased at the sight. The ground was
carpeted with plants similar to those of our climate, but more
vigorous and green; most of them were in flower. At every step we
found roses, red and yellow lilies, lilies of the valley, and almost
all our field flowers. The summits of the mountains were crowned with
pines, and oak-trees grew half way up, decreasing in size and vigour
as they neared the sea. The rivers and streams were planted with
willows, birches, and maples; and skirting the larger woods we saw
apple-trees and azaroles in full bloom, as well as clumps of nut-trees,
the fruit of which was beginning to form."
Upon returning from a fishing excursion the French met with a Tartar
tomb. Curiosity induced them to open it, and they found in it two
skeletons, lying side by side. The heads were covered with stuff caps,
the bodies were wrapped in bearskins, and from the waists hung several
little Chinese coins and copper ornaments. They also found
half-a-score of silver bracelets, an iron hatchet, a knife, and other
things, amongst which was a small bag of blue nankeen filled with rice.
Upon the morning of the 27th La Perouse left this solitary bay, after
depositing there several medals, with an inscription giving the date
of his arrival.
A little further on, more than eight hundred cod, which were at once
salted, were caught, and an immense quantity of oysters with superb
mother of pearl were also obtained.
After a stay in Saffren Bay, situated in 47 degrees 51 minutes N. lat.
and 137 degrees 25 minutes E. long., La Perouse discovered, upon the
6th of July, an island, which was no other than Saghalien. The shore
here was as wooded as that of Tartary. Lofty mountains arose in the
interior, the highest of which was called Lamanon peak. As huts and
smoke were seen, M. de Langle and several officers landed. The
inhabitants had recently fled, for the ashes of their fires were
scarcely cold.
Just as the French were re-embarking, after leaving some presents for
the natives, a pirogue landed seven natives, who showed no signs of
fear.
"Amongst them," says the narrative, "were two old men with long white
beards, dressed in stuff made from the bark of trees, very like the
cotton drawers worn in Madagascar. Two of the seven natives had coats
of padded nankeen, differing little in shape from those of the Chinese.
Others wore long gowns, which were fastened by means of a waist-belt
and some little buttons, so that they had no need of drawers. Their
heads were bare, but one or two of them wore bearskin bands. They had
their forelocks and faces shaven, but the back hair kept about eight
or ten inches long, in a different fashion from the Chinese, however,
who leave only a round tuft of hair, which they call 'pen-t-sec.' All
had sealskin boots with the feet artistically worked -à la Chinoise-.
"Their weapons were bows, spears, and arrows, tipped with iron. The
oldest of the natives, to whom the others showed the most respect, had
his eyes in a dreadful state; he wore a shade round his head, to
protect them from the sun. These natives were grave in manner, and
friendly."
M. de Langle appointed a meeting for the morrow. La Perouse and most
of his officers attended. The facts they learned about these Tartars
were important, and decided La Perouse to pursue his discoveries
further north.
"We succeeded in making them understand," he says, "that we wished
them to draw their country, and that of Manchuria. One of the old men
then arose, and with the point of his spear traced the coast of
Tartary westward, running nearly N. and S. To the east, -vis-à-vis- in
the same direction, he represented his island, and, placing his hand
upon his breast, made us understand that he had indicated his own
country. He left an opening between his island and Tartary, and,
pointing to our vessels, showed us by signs that they could pass
through it. At the south island he delineated another, and left a
second opening, indicating that this too was a route for our ships.
"His quickness in understanding us was great, but not equal to that of
another islander, about thirty years of age, who, seeing that the
figures traced on sand were rubbed out, took one of our pencils and
some paper. He traced out his island, which he called Tchoka, and made
a line for the little river upon the shore of which we were--placing
it two-thirds of the length of the island from north to south. He then
drew Manchuria, leaving, as the old man had done, a strait at the
extreme end; and to our surprise he added the river Saghalien, the
name of which the natives pronounce like ourselves. He placed the
mouth of this river a little to the south of the northerly point of
his island.
"We afterwards wished to ascertain whether this strait was very wide.
We tried to make him understand our idea. He caught at it at once, and,
placing his two hands upright at a distance of three inches one from
the other, he made us understand that he meant to indicate the width
of the little river which formed our watering place; and then, holding
them wider apart, he indicated that the second width was to represent
that of the river Saghalien; and, separating them still more, he gave
the breadth of the strait which divides his country from Tartary.
"M. de Langle and I thought it of the greatest importance to ascertain
whether the island we were coasting was that to which geographers had
given the name of Saghalien, without guessing its extension southwards.
I ordered all hands on board, and prepared to sail in the morning. The
bay in which we had anchored received the name of Langle, from the
captain who discovered it, and was the first to put foot on land.
"In another bay upon the same shore, called Estaing Bay, the boats
landed close to ten or twelve huts. They were larger than those we
before had seen, and were divided into two rooms. That at the back
contained the stove, cooking utensils, and the bench running all round.
That in front was absolutely bare, and probably destined for the
reception of strangers. The women fled when they saw the French land.
Two of them, however, were caught, and, whilst they were being
re-assured, time was found to sketch them. Their faces were peculiar,
but pleasant; they had small eyes and thick lips, the upper one being
painted or tattooed."
[Illustration: He traced the coast of Tartary.]
M. de Langle found the natives gathered about four boats, that were
loaded with smoked fish, which they were helping to put in water. They
were Manchurians, from the shores of Saghalien River. In the corner of
the island was a kind of circus, planted with fifteen or twenty stakes,
each surmounted by the head of a bear. It was supposed, not without
some show of reason, that these trophies were intended to perpetuate
the memory of a victory over this wild beast.
Quantities of cod-fish were obtained upon this coast; and at the mouth
of the river a prodigious quantity of salmon was caught. After
reconnoitring the bay of La Jonquière, La Perouse cast anchor in
Casters Bay. His water supply was nearly exhausted, and he had no more
wood. The further he penetrated into the strait which separates
Saghalien from the continent, the more the depth diminished. La
Perouse, recognizing that he could not double the island of Saghalien
by the north, and afraid of not being able to leave the defile in
which he now found himself excepting by the strait of Sangaar, which
was much further south, determined to remain only five days in Casters
Bay, a period which he absolutely needed to take in provisions.
The observatory was set up in a small island, while the carpenters cut
down wood, and the sailors filled the water-barrels.
"The huts of these islanders, who call themselves Orotchys," says the
narrative, "are surrounded by a drying ground for salmon, which were
exposed to the sun upon perches, after having been smoked for three or
four days at the stove which is in the centre of the hut. The women
who have charge of this operation take them, as soon as they are
smoked through, into the open air, where they become as hard as wood.
"The natives joined us in our fishing with nets or hooks, and we saw
them voraciously devouring the head, gills, and sometimes the skin, of
raw salmon, tearing it up very cleverly. They sucked out the mucilage,
much as we eat oysters. Their fish seldom reach the shore without
having first paid toll, unless the catch is very large; and the women
show the same eagerness to seize upon the whole fish, and in the same
ravenous way devour the mucilaginous parts, which appear to be their
tid-bits.
"These people are revoltingly dirty. It would be impossible to find a
race farther removed from our ideas of beauty. In height they are less
than four foot ten, their bodies are emaciated, their voices are weak
and shrill like children's. They have projecting cheek-bones, bleared
and sunken eyes, large mouths, flat noses, short and almost beardless
chins, and olive skins, shining with oil and smoke. They allow their
hair to grow long, and dress it somewhat in the European style. The
women wear it loose over their shoulders, and the description we have
given applies to them as well as to the men, from whom they are
scarcely to be distinguished, except for a slight difference in their
apparel. The women are not subject to any labour, which, as in the
case of the American Indians, might have accounted for the inelegance
of their appearance. All their time is occupied in cutting out and
making their clothes, in drying fish and nursing their children, whom
they suckle to the age of three or four years. It rather astonished me
to see a child of this age, who had been shooting with bow and arrows,
beating a dog, &c., throw himself upon his mother's bosom, and take
the place of an infant of five or six months who was lying asleep upon
her knees."
[Illustration: Typical Orotchys. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
The Bitchys and the Orotchys confirmed much of the information which
La Perouse had already obtained. From them he ascertained that the
northern point of Saghalien was connected with the continent merely by
a sand-bank, on which grew seaweed, and where there was but little
water.
This concurrence of testimony left no room for doubt, especially as he
never found more than six fathoms in the canal. There remained but one
point of interest to determine, and that was the survey of the
southern point of Saghalien, which he had only explored as far as
Langle Bay in 47 degrees 49 minutes.
Upon the 2nd of August the -Astrolabe- and the -Boussole- left Casters
Bay, and returned southwards, successively discovering and
reconnoitring Monneron Island and Langle Peak, doubling the southern
point of Saghalien called Cape Crillon, which led to a strait between
Oku-Jesso and Jesso; this they named after La Perouse. Hitherto the
geography of this part of the world had been most fanciful and
imaginary. Sansen was of opinion that Corea was an island, and that
Jesso, Oku-Jesso, and Kamtchatka existed only in imagination; whilst
Delisle insisted that Jesso and Oku-Jesso were merely an island,
ending at Sangaar Strait; and lastly, Buache, in his "Considérations
Géographiques," page 105, says, "Jesso, after being placed first in
the east, then in the south, and finally in the west, was at last
found to be in the north."
To this confusion the discoveries of the French expedition were
destined to put an end.
La Perouse had some intercourse with the natives of Crillon Cape, and
stated that they were handsome men, far more industrious than the
Orotchys of Casters Bay, but less liberal in their dealings.
"They have," he says, "one most important article of commerce--unknown
in the channel of Tartary--from which they derive their riches, namely,
whale oil. Of this they collect considerable quantities. They extract
it in a way which is far from economical. They cut the flesh into
pieces, and dry it upon a slope in the open air, by exposing it to the
sun. The oil which flows from it is caught in vessels made of bark, or
into bottles of dried sealskin."
After sighting the Cape Arniva of the Dutch, the vessels coasted along
the barren, treeless, uninhabited country in possession of the Dutch
Company, and shortly reached the Kurile Islands. They then passed
between Marikon Island and the Island of the Four Brothers, calling
the strait--the finest amongst the Kurile Islands, through which they
penetrated--La Boudeuse.
On the 3rd of September the coast of Kamtchatka was reached. This
coast was uninviting enough. "There the eyes rest painfully, and often
fearfully, upon enormous masses of rock, which are already covered
with snow in the beginning of September, and which never appear to
have had any vegetation."
Three days later Avatscha Bay, or the Bay of Saint Peter and Saint
Paul, was reached. The astronomers at once proceeded to take
observations; the naturalists made the perilous and arduous ascent of
a volcano, some eight leagues inland; whilst those of the crew who
were not engaged upon the vessels gave themselves up to hunting and
fishing. Thanks to the welcome accorded by the governor, their
pleasures were varied.
"We were invited," says La Perouse, "to a ball which the governor
wished to give to all the women, whether from Kamtchatka or Russia. If
the ball was not large, it was at least mixed. Thirteen females,
clothed in silk, ten of whom were natives of Kamtchatka, with large
faces, small eyes, and flat noses, were seated upon benches round the
room. Both they and the Russians wore silk handkerchiefs wrapped round
the head, in a way similar to those worn by mulattoes. The ball opened
with Russian dances, the airs for which were very lively, and like
those of the Cossack dances given a short time since in Paris. These
were followed by Kamtchatka dances, which were comparable only to the
convulsionists of the famous tomb of Saint Médard. The dancers of this
part of Asia scarcely require legs, they make such vigorous use of the
shoulders and arms. The impression made upon the spectators by the
convulsive and contorted movements of the Kamtchatka dancers is
painful, and is rendered more so by a pitiful cry which escapes them
at intervals, and which is the sole music by which they measure their
time. The exertions they made are so formidable that they are
completely covered with sweat, and at the conclusion they lie upon the
ground unable to move a limb. The exhalations from their bodies
permeate the atmosphere with the smell of fish and oil, so strong as
to be disagreeable to the unaccustomed nostrils of Europeans."
The arrival of a courier from Okotsk interrupted the ball. The news he
brought was pleasant for every one, but particularly for La Perouse,
who learned that he was promoted.
During their stay in this port, the navigators found the tomb of Louis
Delisle de la Croyère, Member of the Academy of Sciences, who died in
Kamtchatka in 1741, upon his return from an expedition undertaken by
command of the Czar for the survey of the American coast. His
fellow-countrymen honoured his memory by placing an engraved copper
slab over his grave. They paid the same homage to Captain Clerke,
.
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