“And without any fatigue,” added Manoel; “we might do hundreds of
thousands of miles in this way.”
“And,” said Minha, “you do not repent having taken passage with us? Does
it not seem to you as if we were afloat on an island drifted quietly
away from the bed of the river with its prairies and its trees?
Only----”
“Only?” repeated the padre.
“Only we have made the island with our own hands; it belongs to us, and
I prefer it to all the islands of the Amazon. I have a right to be proud
of it.”
“Yes, my daughter; and I absolve you from your pride. Besides, I am not
allowed to scold you in the presence of Manoel!”
“But, on the other hand,” replied she, gayly, “you should teach Manoel
to scold me when I deserve it. He is a great deal too indulgent to my
little self.”
“Well, then, dear Minha,” said Manoel, “I shall profit by that
permission to remind you----”
“Of what?”
“That you were very busy in the library at the fazenda, and that you
promised to make me very learned about everything connected with the
Upper Amazon. We know very little about it in Para, and here we have
been passing several islands and you have not even told me their names!”
“What is the good of that?” said she.
“Yes; what is the good of it?” repeated Benito. “What can be the use of
remembering the hundreds of names in the ‘Tupi’ dialect with which these
islands are dressed out? It is enough to know them. The Americans
are much more practical with their Mississippi islands; they number
them----”
“As they number the avenues and streets of their towns,” replied Manoel.
“Frankly, I don’t care much for that numerical system; it conveys
nothing to the imagination--Sixty-fourth Island or Sixty-fifth Island,
any more than Sixth Street or Third Avenue. Don’t you agree with me,
Minha?”
“Yes, Manoel; though I am of somewhat the same way of thinking as my
brother. But even if we do not know their names, the islands of our
great river are truly splendid! See how they rest under the shadows of
those gigantic palm-trees with their drooping leaves! And the girdle of
reeds which encircles them through which a pirogue can with difficulty
make its way! And the mangrove trees, whose fantastic roots buttress
them to the bank like the claws of some gigantic crab! Yes, the islands
are beautiful, but, beautiful as they are, they cannot equal the one we
have made our own!”
“My little Minha is enthusiastic to-day,” said the padre.
“Ah, padre! I am so happy to see everybody happy around me!”
At this moment the voice of Yaquita was heard calling Minha into the
house.
The young girl smilingly ran off.
“You will have an amiable companion,” said the padre. “All the joy of
the house goes away with you, my friend.”
“Brave little sister!” said Benito, “we shall miss her greatly, and the
padre is right. However, if you do not marry her, Manoel--there is still
time--she will stay with us.”
“She will stay with you, Benito,” replied Manoel. “Believe me, I have a
presentiment that we shall all be reunited!”
The first day passed capitally; breakfast, dinner, siesta, walks,
all took place as if Joam Garral and his people were still in the
comfortable fazenda of Iquitos.
During these twenty-four hours the mouths of the rivers Bacali, Chochio,
Pucalppa, on the left of the stream, and those of the rivers Itinicari,
Maniti, Moyoc, Tucuya, and the islands of this name on the right, were
passed without accident. The night, lighted by the moon, allowed them to
save a halt, and the giant raft glided peacefully on along the surface
of the Amazon.
On the morrow, the 7th of June, the jangada breasted the banks of the
village of Pucalppa, named also New Oran. Old Oran, situated fifteen
leagues down stream on the same left bank of the river, is almost
abandoned for the new settlement, whose population consists of Indians
belonging to the Mayoruna and Orejone tribes. Nothing can be more
picturesque than this village with its ruddy-colored banks, its
unfinished church, its cottages, whose chimneys are hidden amid the
palms, and its two or three ubas half-stranded on the shore.
During the whole of the 7th of June the jangada continued to follow
the left bank of the river, passing several unknown tributaries of no
importance. For a moment there was a chance of her grounding on the
easterly shore of the island of Sinicure; but the pilot, well served by
the crew, warded off the danger and remained in the flow of the stream.
In the evening they arrived alongside a narrow island, called Napo
Island, from the name of the river which here comes in from the
north-northwest, and mingles its waters with those of the Amazon through
a mouth about eight hundred yards across, after having watered the
territories of the Coto and Orejone Indians.
It was on the morning of the 7th of June that the jangada was abreast
the little island of Mango, which causes the Napo to split into two
streams before falling into the Amazon.
Several years later a French traveler, Paul Marcoy, went out to examine
the color of the waters of this tributary, which has been graphically
compared to the cloudy greenish opal of absinthe. At the same time he
corrected some of the measurements of La Condamine. But then the mouth
of the Napo was sensibly increased by the floods and it was with a good
deal of rapidity that its current, coming from the eastern slopes of
Cotopaxi, hurried fiercely to mingle itself with the tawny waters of the
Amazon.
A few Indians had wandered to the mouth of this river. They were robust
in build, of tall stature, with shaggy hair, and had their noses pierced
with a rod of palm, and the lobes of their ears lengthened to their
shoulders by the weight of heavy rings of precious wood. Some women were
with them. None of them showed any intention of coming on board. It is
asserted that these natives are cannibals; but if that is true--and
it is said of many of the riverine tribes--there must have been more
evidence for the cannibalism than we get to-day.
Some hours later the village of Bella Vista, situated on a somewhat
lower bank, appeared, with its cluster of magnificent trees, towering
above a few huts roofed with straw, over which there drooped the large
leaves of some medium-sized banana-trees, like the waters overflowing
from a tazza.
Then the pilot, so as to follow a better current, which turned off from
the bank, directed the raft toward the right side of the river, which
he had not yet approached. The maneuver was not accomplished without
certain difficulties, which were successfully overcome after a good many
resorts to the demijohn.
This allowed them to notice in passing some of those numerous lagoons
with black waters, which are distributed along the course of the Amazon,
and which often have no communication with the river. One of these,
bearing the name of the Lagoon of Oran, is of fair size, and receives
the water by a large strait. In the middle of the stream are scattered
several islands and two or three islets curiously grouped; and on the
opposite bank Benito recognized the site of the ancient Oran, of which
they could only see a few uncertain traces.
During two days the jangada traveled sometimes under the left bank,
sometimes under the right, according to the condition of the current,
without giving the least sign of grounding.
The passengers had already become used to this new life. Joam Garral,
leaving to his son everything that referred to the commercial side
of the expedition, kept himself principally to his room, thinking and
writing. What he was writing about he told to nobody, not even Yaquita,
and it seemed to have already assumed the importance of a veritable
essay.
Benito, all observation, chatted with the pilot and acted as manager.
Yaquita, her daughter, and Manoel, nearly always formed a group apart,
discussing their future projects just as they had walked and done in
the park of the fazenda. The life was, in fact, the same. Not quite,
perhaps, to Benito, who had not yet found occasion to participate in the
pleasures of the chase. If, however, the forests of Iquitos failed him
with their wild beasts, agoutis, peccaries, and cabiais, the birds flew
in flocks from the banks of the river and fearlessly perched on the
jangada. When they were of such quality as to figure fairly on the
table, Benito shot them; and, in the interest of all, his sister raised
no objection; but if he came across any gray or yellow herons, or red
or white ibises, which haunt the sides, he spared them through love for
Minha. One single species of grebe, which is uneatable, found no grace
in the eyes of the young merchant; this was the -“caiarara,”- as quick
to dive as to swim or fly; a bird with a disagreeable cry, but whose
down bears a high price in the different markets of the Amazonian basin.
At length, after having passed the village of Omaguas and the mouth of
the Ambiacu, the jangada arrived at Pevas on the evening of the 11th of
June, and was moored to the bank.
As it was to remain here for some hours before nightfall, Benito
disembarked, taking with him the ever-ready Fragoso, and the two
sportsmen started off to beat the thickets in the environs of the
little place. An agouti and a cabiai, not to mention a dozen partridges,
enriched the larder after this fortunate excursion. At Pevas, where
there is a population of two hundred and sixty inhabitants, Benito would
perhaps have done some trade with the lay brothers of the mission, who
are at the same time wholesale merchants, but these had just sent away
some bales of sarsaparilla and arrobas of caoutchouc toward the Lower
Amazon, and their stores were empty.
The jangada departed at daybreak, and passed the little archipelago of
the Iatio and Cochiquinas islands, after having left the village of the
latter name on the right. Several mouths of smaller unnamed affluents
showed themselves on the right of the river through the spaces between
the islands.
Many natives, with shaved heads, tattooed cheeks and foreheads, carrying
plates of metal in the lobes of their ears, noses, and lower lips,
appeared for an instant on the shore. They were armed with arrows
and blow tubes, but made no use of them, and did not even attempt to
communicate with the jangada.
CHAPTER XI. FROM PEVAS TO THE FRONTIER
DURING THE FEW days which followed nothing occurred worthy of note. The
nights were so fine that the long raft went on its way with the stream
without even a halt. The two picturesque banks of the river seemed to
change like the panoramas of the theaters which unroll from one wing to
another. By a kind of optical illusion it appeared as though the raft
was motionless between two moving pathways.
Benito had no shooting on the banks, for no halt was made, but game was
very advantageously replaced by the results of the fishing.
A great variety of excellent fish were taken---“pacos,” “surubis,”
“gamitanas,”- of exquisite flavor, and several of those large rays
called -“duridaris,”- with rose-colored stomachs and black backs armed
with highly poisonous darts. There were also collected by thousands
those -“candirus,”- a kind of small silurus, of which many are
microscopic, and which so frequently make a pincushion of the calves of
the bather when he imprudently ventures into their haunts.
The rich waters of the Amazon were also frequented by many other aquatic
animals, which escorted the jangada through its waves for whole hours
together.
There were the gigantic -“pria-rucus,”- ten and twelve feet long,
cuirassed with large scales with scarlet borders, whose flesh was not
much appreciated by the natives. Neither did they care to capture many
of the graceful dolphins which played about in hundreds, striking with
their tails the planks of the raft, gamboling at the bow and stern, and
making the water alive with colored reflections and spurts of spray,
which the refracted light converted into so many rainbows.
On the 16th of June the jangada, after fortunately clearing several
shallows in approaching the banks, arrived near the large island of
San Pablo, and the following evening she stopped at the village of
Moromoros, which is situated on the left side of the Amazon. Twenty-four
hours afterward, passing the mouths of the Atacoari or Cocha--or
rather the -“furo,”- or canal, which communicates with the lake of
Cabello-Cocha on the right bank--she put in at the rising ground of the
mission of Cocha. This was the country of the Marahua Indians, whose
long floating hair, and mouths opening in the middle of a kind of fan
made of the spines of palm-trees, six inches long, give them a cat-like
look--their endeavor being, according to Paul Marcoy, to resemble
the tiger, whose boldness, strength, and cunning they admire above
everything. Several women came with these Marahuas, smoking cigars, but
holding the lighted ends in their teeth. All of them, like the king of
the Amazonian forests, go about almost naked.
The mission of Cocha was then in charge of a Franciscan monk, who was
anxious to visit Padre Passanha.
Joam Garral received him with a warm welcome, and offered him a seat at
the dinner-table.
On that day was given a dinner which did honor to the Indian cook. The
traditional soup of fragrant herbs; cake, so often made to replace bread
in Brazil, composed of the flour of the manioc thoroughly impregnated
with the gravy of meat and tomato jelly; poultry with rice, swimming in
a sharp sauce made of vinegar and -“malagueta;”- a dish of spiced herbs,
and cold cake sprinkled with cinnamon, formed enough to tempt a poor
monk reduced to the ordinary meager fare of his parish. They tried all
they could to detain him, and Yaquita and her daughter did their utmost
in persuasion. But the Franciscan had to visit on that evening an Indian
who was lying ill at Cocha, and he heartily thanked the hospitable
family and departed, not without taking a few presents, which would be
well received by the neophytes of the mission.
For two days Araujo was very busy. The bed of the river gradually
enlarged, but the islands became more numerous, and the current,
embarrassed by these obstacles, increased in strength. Great care was
necessary in passing between the islands of Cabello-Cocha, Tarapote, and
Cacao. Many stoppages had to be made, and occasionally they were obliged
to pole off the jangada, which now and then threatened to run aground.
Every one assisted in the work, and it was under these difficult
circumstances that, on the evening of the 20th of June, they found
themselves at Nuestra-Senora-di-Loreto.
Loreto is the last Peruvian town situated on the left bank of the river
before arriving at the Brazilian frontier. It is only a little village,
composed of about twenty houses, grouped on a slightly undulating bank,
formed of ocherous earth and clay.
It was in 1770 that this mission was founded by the Jesuit missionaries.
The Ticuma Indians, who inhabit the territories on the north of the
river, are natives with ruddy skins, bushy hair, and striped designs on
their faces, making them look like the lacquer on a Chinese table. Both
men and women are simply clothed, with cotton bands bound round their
thighs and stomachs. They are now not more than two hundred in number,
and on the banks of the Atacoari are found the last traces of a nation
which was formerly so powerful under its famous chiefs.
At Loreto there also live a few Peruvian soldiers and two or three
Portuguese merchants, trading in cotton stuffs, salt fish, and
sarsaparilla.
Benito went ashore, to buy, if possible, a few bales of this smilax,
which is always so much in demand in the markets of the Amazon. Joam
Garral, occupied all the time in the work which gave him not a moment’s
rest, did not stir. Yaquita, her daughter, and Manoel also remained on
board. The mosquitoes of Loreto have a deserved reputation for driving
away such visitors as do not care to leave much of their blood with the
redoubtable diptera.
Manoel had a few appropriate words to say about these insects, and they
were not of a nature to encourage an inclination to brave their stings.
“They say that all the new species which infest the banks of the Amazon
collect at the village of Loreto. I believe it, but do not wish to
confirm it. There, Minha, you can take your choice between the gray
mosquito, the hairy mosquito, the white-clawed mosquito, the dwarf
mosquito, the trumpeter, the little fifer, the urtiquis, the harlequin,
the big black, and the red of the woods; or rather they make take
their choice of you for a little repast, and you will come back hardly
recognizable! I fancy these bloodthirsty diptera guard the Brazilian
frontier considerably better than the poverty-stricken soldiers we see
on the bank.”
“But if everything is of use in nature,” asked Minha, “what is the use
of mosquitoes?”
“They minister to the happiness of entomologists,” replied Manoel; “and
I should be much embarrassed to find a better explanation.”
What Manoel had said of the Loreto mosquitoes was only too true. When
Benito had finished his business and returned on board, his face and
hands were tattooed with thousands of red points, without counting some
chigoes, which, in spite of the leather of his boots, had introduced
themselves beneath his toes.
“Let us set off this very instant,” said Benito, “or these wretched
insects will invade us, and the jangada will become uninhabitable!”
“And we shall take them into Para,” said Manoel, “where there are
already quite enough for its own needs.”
And so, in order not to pass even the night near the banks, the jangada
pushed off into the stream.
On leaving Loreto the Amazon turns slightly toward the southwest,
between the islands of Arava, Cuyari, and Urucutea. The jangada then
glided along the black waters of the Cajaru, as they mingled with the
white stream of the Amazon. After having passed this tributary on
the left, it peacefully arrived during the evening of the 23d of June
alongside the large island of Jahuma.
The setting of the sun on a clear horizon, free from all haze, announced
one of those beautiful tropical nights which are unknown in the
temperate zones. A light breeze freshened the air; the moon arose in the
constellated depths of the sky, and for several hours took the place of
the twilight which is absent from these latitudes. But even during this
period the stars shone with unequaled purity. The immense plain seemed
to stretch into the infinite like a sea, and at the extremity of the
axis, which measures more than two hundred thousand millions of leagues,
there appeared on the north the single diamond of the pole star, on the
south the four brilliants of the Southern Cross.
The trees on the left bank and on the island of Jahuma stood up in sharp
black outline. There were recognizable in the undecided -silhouettes-
the trunks, or rather columns, of -“copahus,”- which spread out in
umbrellas, groups of -“sandis,”- from which is extracted the thick and
sugared milk, intoxicating as wine itself, and -“vignaticos”- eighty
feet high, whose summits shake at the passage of the lightest currents
of air. “What a magnificent sermon are these forests of the Amazon!” has
been justly said. Yes; and we might add, “What a magnificent hymn there
is in the nights of the tropics!”
The birds were giving forth their last evening notes---“bentivis,”-
who hang their nests on the bank-side reeds; -“niambus,”- a kind of
partridge, whose song is composed of four notes, in perfect accord;
-“kamichis,”- with their plaintive melody; kingfishers, whose call
responds like a signal to the last cry of their congeners; -“canindes,”-
with their sonorous trumpets; and red macaws, who fold their wings in
the foliage of the -“jaquetibas,”- when night comes on to dim their
glowing colors.
On the jangada every one was at his post, in the attitude of repose.
The pilot alone, standing in the bow, showed his tall stature, scarcely
defined in the earlier shadows. The watch, with his long pole on
his shoulder, reminded one of an encampment of Tartar horsemen. The
Brazilian flag hung from the top of the staff in the bow, and the breeze
was scarcely strong enough to lift the bunting.
At eight o’clock the three first tinklings of the Angelus escaped from
the bell of the little chapel. The three tinklings of the second and
third verses sounded in their turn, and the salutation was completed in
the series of more rapid strokes of the little bell.
However, the family after this July day remained sitting under the
veranda to breathe the fresh air from the open.
It had been so each evening, and while Joam Garral, always silent, was
contented to listen, the young people gayly chatted away till bedtime.
“Ah! our splendid river! our magnificent Amazon!” exclaimed the young
girl, whose enthusiasm for the immense stream never failed.
“Unequaled river, in very truth,” said Manoel; “and I do not understand
all its sublime beauties. We are going down it, however, like Orellana
and La Condamine did so many centuries ago, and I am not at all
surprised at their marvelous descriptions.”
“A little fabulous,” replied Benito.
“Now, brother,” said Minha seriously, “say no evil of our Amazon.”
“To remind you that it has its legends, my sister, is to say no ill of
it.”
“Yes, that is true; and it has some marvelous ones,” replied Minha.
“What legends?” asked Manoel. “I dare avow that they have not yet found
their way into Para--or rather that, for my part, I am not acquainted
with them.”
“What, then do you learn in the Belem colleges?” laughingly asked Minha.
“I begin to perceive that they teach us nothing,” replied Manoel.
“What, sir!” replied Minha, with a pleasant seriousness, “you do
not know, among other fables, that an enormous reptile called the
-‘minhocao,’- sometimes visits the Amazon, and that the waters of the
river rise or fall according as this serpent plunges in or quits them,
so gigantic is he?”
“But have you ever seen this phenomenal minhocao?”
“Alas, no!” replied Lina.
“What a pity!” Fragoso thought it proper to add.
“And the ‘Mae d’Aqua,’” continued the girl--“that proud and redoubtable
woman whose look fascinates and drags beneath the waters of the river
the imprudent ones who gaze a her.”
“Oh, as for the ‘Mae d’Aqua,’ she exists!” cried the naïve Lina; “they
say that she still walks on the banks, but disappears like a water
sprite as soon as you approach her.”
“Very well, Lina,” said Benito; “the first time you see her just let me
know.”
“So that she may seize you and take you to the bottom of the river?
Never, Mr. Benito!”
“She believes it!” shouted Minha.
“There are people who believe in the trunk of Manaos,” said Fragoso,
always ready to intervene on behalf of Lina.
“The ‘trunk of Manaos’?” asked Manoel. “What about the trunk of Manaos?”
“Mr. Manoel,” answered Fragoso, with comic gravity, “it appears that
there is--or rather formerly was--a trunk of -‘turuma,’- which every
year at the same time descended the Rio Negro, stopping several days at
Manaos, and going on into Para, halting at every port, where the natives
ornamented it with little flags. Arrived at Belem, it came to a halt,
turned back on its road, remounted the Amazon to the Rio Negro, and
returned to the forest from which it had mysteriously started. One day
somebody tried to drag it ashore, but the river rose in anger, and the
attempt had to be given up. And on another occasion the captain of a
ship harpooned it and tried to tow it along. This time again the river,
in anger, broke off the ropes, and the trunk mysteriously escaped.”
“What became of it?” asked the mulatto.
“It appears that on its last voyage, Miss Lina,” replied Fragoso, “it
mistook the way, and instead of going up the Negro it continued in the
Amazon, and it has never been seen again.”
“Oh, if we could only meet it!” said Lina.
“If we meet it,” answered Benito, “we will put you on it! It will take
you back to the mysterious forest, and you will likewise pass into the
state of a legendary mind!”
“And why not?” asked the mulatto.
“So much for your legends,” said Manoel; “and I think your river is
worthy of them. But it has also its histories, which are worth something
more. I know one, and if I were not afraid of grieving you--for it is a
very sad one--I would relate it.”
“Oh! tell it, by all means, Mr. Manoel,” exclaimed Lina; “I like stories
which make you cry!”
“What, do you cry, Lina?” said Benito.
“Yes, Mr. Benito; but I cry when laughing.”
“Oh, well! let us save it, Manoel!”
“It is the history of a Frenchwoman whose sorrows rendered these banks
memorable in the eighteenth century.”
“We are listening,” said Minha.
“Here goes, then,” said Manoel. “In 1741, at the time of the expedition
of the two Frenchmen, Bouguer and La Condamine, who were sent to measure
a terrestrial degree on the equator, they were accompanied by a very
distinguished astronomer, Godin des Odonais. Godin des Odonais set out
then, but he did not set out alone, for the New World; he took with him
his young wife, his children, his father-in-law, and his brother-in-law.
The travelers arrived at Quito in good health. There commenced a series
of misfortunes for Madame Odonais; in a few months she lost some of her
children. When Godin des Odonais had completed his work, toward the end
of the year 1759, he left Quito and started for Cayenne. Once arrived
in this town he wanted his family to come to him, but war had been
declared, and he was obliged to ask the Portuguese government for
permission for a free passage for Madame Odonais and her people. What
do you think? Many years passed before the permission could be given.
In 1765 Godin des Odonais, maddened by the delay, resolved to ascend
the Amazon in search of his wife at Quito; but at the moment of his
departure a sudden illness stopped him, and he could not carry out his
intention. However, his application had not been useless, and Madame
des Odonais learned at last that the king of Portugal had given the
necessary permission, and prepared to embark and descend the river to
her husband. At the same time an escort was ordered to be ready in the
missions of the Upper Amazon. Madame des Odonais was a woman of
great courage, as you will see presently; she never hesitated, and
notwithstanding the dangers of such a voyage across the continent, she
started.”
“It was her duty to her husband, Manoel,” said Yaquita, “and I would
have done the same.”
“Madame des Odonais,” continued Manoel, “came to Rio Bamba, at the
south of Quito, bringing her brother-in-law, her children, and a French
doctor. Their endeavor was to reach the missions on the Brazilian
frontier, where they hoped to find a ship and the escort. The voyage at
first was favorable; it was made down the tributaries of the Amazon in
a canoe. The difficulties, however, gradually increased with the dangers
and fatigues of a country decimated by the smallpox. Of several guides
who offered their services, the most part disappeared after a few
days; one of them, the last who remained faithful to the travelers, was
drowned in the Bobonasa, in endeavoring to help the French doctor. At
length the canoe, damaged by rocks and floating trees, became useless.
It was therefore necessary to get on shore, and there at the edge of the
impenetrable forest they built a few huts of foliage. The doctor offered
to go on in front with a negro who had never wished to leave Madame des
Odonais. The two went off; they waited for them several days, but in
vain. They never returned.
“In the meantime the victuals were getting exhausted. The forsaken ones
in vain endeavored to descend the Bobonasa on a raft. They had to
again take to the forest, and make their way on foot through the almost
impenetrable undergrowth. The fatigues were too much for the poor folks!
They died off one by one in spite of the cares of the noble Frenchwoman.
At the end of a few days children, relations, and servants, were all
dead!”
“What an unfortunate woman!” said Lina.
“Madame des Odonais alone remained,” continued Manoel. “There she was,
at a thousand leagues from the ocean which she was trying to reach! It
was no longer a mother who continued her journey toward the river--the
mother had lost her children; she had buried them with her own hands! It
was a wife who wished to see her husband once again! She traveled night
and day, and at length regained the Bobonasa. She was there received
by some kind-hearted Indians, who took her to the missions, where the
escort was waiting. But she arrived alone, and behind her the stages of
the route were marked with graves! Madame des Odonais reached Loreto,
where we were a few days back. From this Peruvian village she descended
the Amazon, as we are doing at this moment, and at length she rejoined
her husband after a separation of nineteen years.”
“Poor lady!” said Minha.
“Above all, poor mother!” answered Yaquita.
At this moment Araujo, the pilot, came aft and said:
“Joam Garral, we are off the Ronde Island. We are passing the frontier!”
“The frontier!” replied Joam.
And rising, he went to the side of the jangada, and looked long and
earnestly at the Ronde Island, with the waves breaking up against
it. Then his hand sought his forehead, as if to rid himself of some
remembrance.
“The frontier!” murmured he, bowing his head by an involuntary movement.
But an instant after his head was raised, and his expression was that of
a man resolved to do his duty to the last.
CHAPTER XII. FRAGOSO AT WORK
“BRAZA” (burning embers) is a word found in the Spanish language as far
back as the twelfth century. It has been used to make the word “brazil,”
as descriptive of certain woods which yield a reddish dye. From this
has come the name “Brazil,” given to that vast district of South America
which is crossed by the equator, and in which these products are so
frequently met with. In very early days these woods were the object of
considerable trade. Although correctly called -“ibirapitunga,”- from the
place of production, the name of -“brazil”- stuck to them, and it has
become that of the country, which seems like an immense heap of embers
lighted by the rays of the tropical sun.
Brazil was from the first occupied by the Portuguese. About the
commencement of the sixteenth century, Alvarez Cabral, the pilot, took
possession of it, and although France and Holland partially established
themselves there, it has remained Portuguese, and possesses all the
qualities which distinguish that gallant little nation. It is to-day
the largest state of South America, and has at its head the intelligent
artist-king Dom Pedro.
“What is your privilege in the tribe?” asked Montaigne of an Indian whom
he met at Havre.
“The privilege of marching first to battle!” innocently answered the
Indian.
War, we know, was for a long time the surest and most rapid vehicle of
civilization. The Brazilians did what this Indian did: they fought, they
defended their conquests, they enlarged them, and we see them marching
in the first rank of the civilizing advance.
It was in 1824, sixteen years after the foundation of the
Portugo-Brazilian Empire, that Brazil proclaimed its independence by the
voice of Don Juan, whom the French armies had chased from Portugal.
It remained only to define the frontier between the new empire and that
of its neighbor, Peru. This was no easy matter.
If Brazil wished to extend to the Rio Napo in the west, Peru attempted
to reach eight degrees further, as far as the Lake of Ega.
But in the meantime Brazil had to interfere to hinder the kidnaping of
the Indians from the Amazon, a practice which was engaged in much to the
profit of the Hispano-Brazilian missions. There was no better method of
checking this trade than that of fortifying the Island of the Ronde, a
little above Tabatinga, and there establishing a post.
This afforded the solution, and from that time the frontier of the two
countries passed through the middle of this island.
Above, the river is Peruvian, and is called the Marañon, as has been
said. Below, it is Brazilian, and takes the name of the Amazon.
It was on the evening of the 25th of June that the jangada stopped
before Tabatinga, the first Brazilian town situated on the left bank, at
the entrance of the river of which it bears the name, and belonging to
the parish of St. Paul, established on the right a little further down
stream.
Joam Garral had decided to pass thirty-six hours here, so as to give
a little rest to the crew. They would not start, therefore, until the
morning of the 27th.
On this occasion Yaquita and her children, less likely, perhaps, than
at Iquitos to be fed upon by the native mosquitoes, had announced their
intention of going on ashore and visiting the town.
The population of Tabatinga is estimated at four hundred, nearly all
Indians, comprising, no doubt, many of those wandering families who
are never settled at particular spots on the banks of the Amazon or its
smaller tributaries.
The post at the island of the Ronde has been abandoned for some years,
and transferred to Tabatinga. It can thus be called a garrison town, but
the garrison is only composed of nine soldiers, nearly all Indians, and
a sergeant, who is the actual commandant of the place.
A bank about thirty feet high, in which are cut the steps of a not very
solid staircase, forms here the curtain of the esplanade which carries
the pigmy fort. The house of the commandant consists of a couple of huts
placed in a square, and the soldiers occupy an oblong building a hundred
feet away, at the foot of a large tree.
The collection of cabins exactly resembles all the villages and hamlets
which are scattered along the banks of the river, although in them
a flagstaff carrying the Brazilian colors does not rise above a
sentry-box, forever destitute of its sentinel, nor are four small
mortars present to cannonade on an emergency any vessel which does not
come in when ordered.
As for the village properly so called, it is situated below, at the
base of the plateau. A road, which is but a ravine shaded by ficuses and
miritis, leads to it in a few minutes. There, on a half-cracked hill of
clay, stand a dozen houses, covered with the leaves of the -“boiassu”-
palm placed round a central space.
All this is not very curious, but the environs of Tabatinga are
charming, particularly at the mouth of the Javary, which is of
sufficient extent to contain the Archipelago of the Aramasa Islands.
Hereabouts are grouped many fine trees, and among them a large number of
the palms, whose supple fibers are used in the fabrication of hammocks
and fishing-nets, and are the cause of some trade. To conclude, the
place is one of the most picturesque on the Upper Amazon.
Tabatinga is destined to become before long a station of some
importance, and will no doubt rapidly develop, for there will stop the
Brazilian steamers which ascend the river, and the Peruvian steamers
which descend it. There they will tranship passengers and cargoes. It
does not require much for an English or American village to become in a
few years the center of considerable commerce.
The river is very beautiful along this part of its course. The influence
of ordinary tides is not perceptible at Tabatinga, which is more
than six hundred leagues from the Atlantic. But it is not so with the
-“pororoca,”- that species of eddy which for three days in the height of
the syzygies raises the waters of the Amazon, and turns them back at the
rate of seventeen kilometers per hour. They say that the effects of this
bore are felt up to the Brazilian frontier.
On the morrow, the 26th of June, the Garral family prepared to go off
and visit the village. Though Joam, Benito, and Manoel had already
set foot in a Brazilian town, it was otherwise with Yaquita and her
daughter; for them it was, so to speak, a taking possession. It is
conceivable, therefore, that Yaquita and Minha should attach some
importance to the event.
If, on his part, Fragoso, in his capacity of wandering barber, had
already run through the different provinces of South America, Lina, like
her young mistress, had never been on Brazilian soil.
But before leaving the jangada Fragoso had sought Joam Garral, and had
the following conversation with him.
“Mr. Garral,” said he, “from the day when you received me at the fazenda
of Iquitos, lodged, clothed, fed--in a word, took me in so hospitably--I
have owed you----”
“You owe me absolutely nothing, my friend,” answered Joam, “so do not
insist----”
“Oh, do not be alarmed!” exclaimed Fragoso, “I am not going to pay it
off! Let me add, that you took me on board the jangada and gave me the
means of descending the river. But here we are, on the soil of Brazil,
which, according to all probability, I ought never to have seen again.
Without that liana----”
“It is to Lina, and to Lina alone, that you should tender your thanks,”
said Joam.
“I know,” said Fragoso, “and I will never forget what I owe here, any
more than what I owe you.”
“They tell me, Fragoso,” continued Joam, “that you are going to say
good-by, and intend to remain at Tabatinga.”
“By no means, Mr. Garral, since you have allowed me to accompany you to
Belem, where I hope at the least to be able to resume my old trade.”
“Well, if that is your intention--what were you going to ask me?”
“I was going to ask if you saw any inconvenience in my working at my
profession on our route. There is no necessity for my hand to rust; and,
besides, a few handfuls of reis would not be so bad at the bottom of my
pocket, more particularly if I had earned them. You know, Mr. Garral,
that a barber who is also a hairdresser--and I hardly like to say a
doctor, out of respect to Mr. Manoel--always finds customers in these
Upper Amazon villages.”
“Particularly among the Brazilians,” answered Joam. “As for the
natives----”
“I beg pardon,” replied Fragoso, “particularly among the natives. Ah!
although there is no beard to trim--for nature has been very stingy
toward them in that way--there are always some heads of hair to be
dressed in the latest fashion. They are very fond of it, these savages,
both the men and the women! I shall not be installed ten minutes in the
square at Tabatinga, with my cup and ball in hand--the cup and ball
I have brought on board, and which I can manage with pretty
pleasantly--before a circle of braves and squaws will have formed around
me. They will struggle for my favors. I could remain here for a month,
and the whole tribe of the Ticunas would come to me to have their hair
looked after! They won’t hesitate to make the acquaintance of ‘curling
tongs’--that is what they will call me--if I revisit the walls of
Tabatinga! I have already had two tries here, and my scissors and comb
have done marvels! It does not do to return too often on the same track.
The Indian ladies don’t have their hair curled every day, like the
beauties of our Brazilian cities. No; when it is done, it is done
for year, and during the twelvemonth they will take every care not to
endanger the edifice which I have raised--with what talent I dare not
say. Now it is nearly a year since I was at Tabatinga; I go to find my
monuments in ruin! And if it is not objectionable to you, Mr. Garral, I
would render myself again worthy of the reputation which I have acquired
in these parts, the question of reis, and not that of conceit, being,
you understand, the principal.”
“Go on, then, friend,” replied Joam Garral laughingly; “but be quick!
we can only remain a day at Tabatinga, and we shall start to-morrow at
dawn.”
“I will not lose a minute,” answered Fragoso--“just time to take the
tools of my profession, and I am off.”
“Off you go, Fragoso,” said Joam, “and may the reis rain into your
pocket!”
“Yes, and that is a proper sort of rain, and there can never be too much
of it for your obedient servant.”
And so saying Fragoso rapidly moved away.
A moment afterward the family, with the exception of Joam, went ashore.
The jangada was able to approach near enough to the bank for the landing
to take place without much trouble. A staircase, in a miserable state,
cut in the cliff, allowed the visitors to arrive on the crest of the
plateau.
Yaquita and her party were received by the commandant of the fort, a
poor fellow who, however, knew the laws of hospitality, and offered
them some breakfast in his cottage. Here and there passed and repassed
several soldiers on guard, while on the threshold of the barrack
appeared a few children, with their mothers of Ticuna blood, affording
very poor specimens of the mixed race.
In place of accepting the breakfast of the sergeant, Yaquita invited the
commandant and his wife to come and have theirs on board the jangada.
The commandant did not wait for a second invitation, and an appointment
was made for eleven o’clock. In the meantime Yaquita, her daughter,
and the young mulatto, accompanied by Manoel, went for a walk in the
neighborhood, leaving Benito to settle with the commandant about the
tolls--he being chief of the custom-house as well as of the military
establishment.
That done, Benito, as was his wont, strolled off with his gun into the
adjoining woods. On this occasion Manoel had declined to accompany him.
Fragoso had left the jangada, but instead of mounting to the fort he had
made for the village, crossing the ravine which led off from the right
on the level of the bank. He reckoned more on the native custom of
Tabatinga than on that of the garrison. Doubtless the soldiers’ wives
would not have wished better than to have been put under his hands,
but the husbands scarcely cared to part with a few reis for the sake of
gratifying the whims of their coquettish partners.
Among the natives it was quite the reverse. Husbands and wives, the
jolly barber knew them well, and he knew they would give him a better
reception.
Behold, then, Fragoso on the road, coming up the shady lane beneath the
ficuses, and arriving in the central square of Tabatinga!
As soon as he set foot in the place the famous barber was signaled,
recognized, surrounded. Fragoso had no big box, nor drum, nor cornet
to attract the attention of his clients--not even a carriage of shining
copper, with resplendent lamps and ornamented glass panels, nor a huge
parasol, no anything whatever to impress the public, as they generally
have at fairs. No; but Fragoso had his cup and ball, and how that cup
and ball were manipulated between his fingers! With what address did he
receive the turtle’s head, which did for the ball, on the pointed end
of the stick! With what grace did he make the ball describe some learned
curve of which mathematicians have not yet calculated the value--even
those who have determined the wondrous curve of “the dog who follows his
master!”
Every native was there--men, women, the old and the young, in their
nearly primitive costume, looking on with all their eyes, listening with
all their ears. The smiling entertainer, half in Portuguese, half in
Ticunian, favored them with his customary oration in a tone of the
most rollicking good humor. What he said was what is said by all the
charlatans who place their services at the public disposal, whether
they be Spanish Figaros or French perruqiers. At the bottom the
same self-possession, the same knowledge of human weakness, the same
description of threadbare witticisms, the same amusing dexterity, and,
on the part of the natives, the same wide-mouth astonishment, the same
curiosity, the same credulity as the simple folk of the civilized world.
It followed, then, that ten minutes later the public were completely
won, and crowded round Fragoso, who was installed in a -“loja”- of the
place, a sort of serving-bar to the inn.
The -loja- belonged to a Brazilian settled at Tabatinga. There, for a
few vatems, which are the sols of the country, and worth about twenty
reis, or half a dozen centimes each, the natives could get drinks of the
crudest, and particularly assai, a liquor half-solid, half-liquid,
made of the fruit of the palm-tree, and drunk from a -“coui”- or
half-calabash in general use in this district of the Amazon.
And then men and women, with equal eagerness, took their places on the
barber’s stool. The scissors of Fragoso had little to do, for it was not
a question of cutting these wealthy heads of hair, nearly all remarkable
for their softness and their quality, but the use to which he could
put his comb and the tongs, which were kept warming in the corner in a
brasier.
And then the encouragements of the artist to the crowd!
“Look here! look here!” said he; “how will that do, my friends--if you
don’t sleep on the top of it! There you are, for a twelvemonth! and
these are the latest novelties from Belem and Rio de Janeiro! The
queen’s maids of honor are not more cleverly decked out; and observe, I
am not stingy with the pomade!”
No, he was not stingy with it. True, it was only a little grease, with
which he had mixed some of the juices of a few flowers, but he plastered
it on like cement!
And as to the names of the capillary edifices--for the monuments reared
by the hands of Fragoso were of every order of architecture--buckles,
rings, clubs, tresses, crimpings, rolls, corkscrews, curls, everything
found there a place. Nothing false; no towers, no chignons, no shams!
These head were not enfeebled by cuttings nor thinned by fallings-off,
but were forests in all their native virginity! Fragoso, however, was
not above adding a few natural flowers, two or three long fish-bones,
and some fine bone or copper ornaments, which were brought him by the
dandies of the district. Assuredly, the exquisites of the Directory
would have envied the arrangement of these high-art coiffures, three and
four stories high, and the great Leonard himself would have bowed before
his transatlantic rival.
And then the vatems, the handfuls of reis--the only coins for which the
natives of the Amazon exchange their goods--which rained into the
pocket of Fragoso, and which he collected with evident satisfaction. But
assuredly night would come before he could satisfy the demands of
the customers, who were so constantly renewed. It was not only the
population of Tabatinga which crowded to the door of the loja. The news
of the arrival of Fragoso was not slow to get abroad; natives came to
him from all sides: Ticunas from the left bank of the river, Mayorunas
from the right bank, as well as those who live on the Cajuru and those
who come from the villages of the Javary.
A long array of anxious ones formed itself in the square. The happy ones
coming from the hands of Fragoso went proudly from one house to another,
showed themselves off without daring to shake themselves, like the big
children that they were.
It thus happened that when noon came the much-occupied barber had not
had time to return on board, but had had to content himself with a
little assai, some manioc flour, and turtle eggs, which he rapidly
devoured between two applications of the curling-tongs.
But it was a great harvest for the innkeeper, as all the operations
could not be conducted without a large absorption of liquors drawn
from the cellars of the inn. In fact, it was an event for the town of
Tabatinga, this visit of the celebrated Fragoso, barber in ordinary and
extraordinary to the tribes of the Upper Amazon!
CHAPTER XIII. TORRES
AT FIVE O’CLOCK in the evening Fragoso was still there, and was asking
himself if he would have to pass the night on the spot to satisfy the
expectant crowd, when a stranger arrived in the square, and seeing all
this native gathering, advanced toward the inn.
For some minutes the stranger eyed Fragoso attentively with some
circumspection. The examination was obviously satisfactory, for he
entered the loja.
He was a man about thirty-five years of age. He was dressed in a
somewhat elegant traveling costume, which added much to his personal
appearance. But his strong black beard, which the scissors had not
touched for some time, and his hair, a trifle long, imperiously required
the good offices of a barber.
“Good-day, friend, good-day!” said he, lightly striking Fragoso on the
shoulder.
Fragoso turned round when he heard the words pronounced in pure
Brazilian, and not in the mixed idiom of the natives.
“A compatriot?” he asked, without stopping the twisting of the
refractory mouth of a Mayouma head.
“Yes,” answered the stranger. “A compatriot who has need of your
services.”
“To be sure! In a minute,” said Fragoso. “Wait till I have finished with
this lady!”
And this was done in a couple of strokes with the curling-tongs.
Although he was the last comer, and had no right to the vacant place, he
sat down on the stool without causing any expostulation on the part of
the natives who lost a turn.
Fragoso put down the irons for the scissors, and, after the manner of
his brethren, said:
“What can I do for you, sir?”
“Cut my beard and my hair,” answered the stranger.
“All right!” said Fragoso, inserting his comb into the mass of hair.
And then the scissors to do their work.
“And you come from far?” asked Fragoso, who could not work without a
good deal to say.
“I have come from the neighborhood of Iquitos.”
“So have I!” exclaimed Fragoso. “I have come down the Amazon from
Iquitos to Tabatinga. May I ask your name?”
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.
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.
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996
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998
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999
.
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»
1000