edible point of view than the huge birds they escort.
“See what that wretched promise costs me,” sighed Benito, as, at a
gesture from his sister, he replaced under his arm the gun which had
instinctively gone up to his shoulder.
“We ought to respect the seriemas,” said Manoel, “for they are great
destroyers of the snakes.”
“Just as we ought to respect the snakes,” replied Benito, “because they
eat the noxious insects, and just as we ought the insects because they
live on smaller insects more offensive still. At that rate we ought to
respect everything.”
But the instinct of the young sportsman was about to be put to a still
more rigorous trial. The woods became of a sudden full of game. Swift
stags and graceful roebucks scampered off beneath the bushes, and a
well-aimed bullet would assuredly have stopped them. Here and there
turkeys showed themselves with their milk and coffee-colored plumage;
and peccaries, a sort of wild pig highly appreciated by lovers of
venison, and agouties, which are the hares and rabbits of Central
America; and tatous belonging to the order of edentates, with their
scaly shells of patterns of mosaic.
And truly Benito showed more than virtue, and even genuine heroism, when
he came across some tapirs, called “antas” in Brazil, diminutives of the
elephant, already nearly undiscoverable on the banks of the Upper Amazon
and its tributaries, pachyderms so dear to the hunters for their rarity,
so appreciated by the gourmands for their meat, superior far to beef,
and above all for the protuberance on the nape of the neck, which is a
morsel fit for a king.
His gun almost burned his fingers, but faithful to his promise he kept
it quiet.
But yet--and he cautioned his sister about this--the gun would go off in
spite of him, and probably register a master-stroke in sporting annals,
if within range there should come a -“tamandoa assa,”- a kind of large
and very curious ant-eater.
Happily the big ant-eater did not show himself, neither did any
panthers, leopards, jaguars, guepars, or cougars, called indifferently
ounces in South America, and to whom it is not advisable to get too
near.
“After all,” said Benito, who stopped for an instant, “to walk is very
well, but to walk without an object----”
“Without an object!” replied his sister; “but our object is to see, to
admire, to visit for the last time these forests of Central America,
which we shall not find again in Para, and to bid them a fast farewell.”
“Ah! an idea!”
It was Lina who spoke.
“An idea of Lina’s can be no other than a silly one,” said Benito,
shaking his head.
“It is unkind, brother,” said Minha, “to make fun of Lina when she
has been thinking how to give our walk the object which you have just
regretted it lacks.”
“Besides, Mr. Benito, I am sure my idea will please you,” replied the
mulatto.
“Well, what is it?” asked Minha.
“You see that liana?”
And Lina pointed to a liana of the -“cipos”- kind, twisted round a
gigantic sensitive mimosa, whose leaves, light as feathers, shut up at
the least disturbance.
“Well?” said Benito.
“I proposed,” replied Minha, “that we try to follow that liana to its
very end.”
“It is an idea, and it is an object!” observed Benito, “to follow this
liana, no matter what may be the obstacles, thickets, underwood, rocks,
brooks, torrents, to let nothing stop us, not even----”
“Certainly, you are right, brother!” said Minha; “Lina is a trifle
absurd.”
“Come on, then!” replied her brother; “you say that Lina is absurd so as
to say that Benito is absurd to approve of it!”
“Well, both of you are absurd, if that will amuse you,” returned Minha.
“Let us follow the liana!”
“You are not afraid?” said Manoel.
“Still objections!” shouted Benito.
“Ah, Manoel! you would not speak like that if you were already on your
way and Minha was waiting for you at the end.”
“I am silent,” replied Manoel; “I have no more to say. I obey. Let us
follow the liana!”
And off they went as happy as children home for their holidays.
This vegetable might take them far if they determined to follow it to
its extremity, like the thread of Ariadne, as far almost as that which
the heiress of Minos used to lead her from the labyrinth, and perhaps
entangle them more deeply.
It was in fact a creeper of the salses family, one of the cipos known
under the name of the red -“japicanga,”- whose length sometimes measures
several miles. But, after all, they could leave it when they liked.
The cipo passed from one tree to another without breaking its
continuity, sometimes twisting round the trunks, sometimes garlanding
the branches, here jumping form a dragon-tree to a rosewood, then from
a gigantic chestnut, the -“Bertholletia excelsa,”- to some of the wine
palms, -“baccabas,”- whose branches have been appropriately compared
by Agassiz to long sticks of coral flecked with green. Here round
-“tucumas,”- or ficuses, capriciously twisted like centenarian
olive-trees, and of which Brazil had fifty-four varieties; here round
the kinds of euphorbias, which produce caoutchouc, -“gualtes,”- noble
palm-trees, with slender, graceful, and glossy stems; and cacao-trees,
which shoot up of their own accord on the banks of the Amazon and its
tributaries, having different melastomas, some with red flowers and
others ornamented with panicles of whitish berries.
But the halts! the shouts of cheating! when the happy company thought
they had lost their guiding thread! For it was necessary to go back and
disentangle it from the knot of parasitic plants.
“There it is!” said Lina, “I see it!”
“You are wrong,” replied Minha; “that is not it, that is a liana of
another kind.”
“No, Lina is right!” said Benito.
“No, Lina is wrong!” Manoel would naturally return.
Hence highly serious, long-continued discussions, in which no one would
give in.
Then the black on one side and Benito on the other would rush at the
trees and clamber up to the branches encircled by the cipo so as to
arrive at the true direction.
Now nothing was assuredly less easy in that jumble of knots, among which
twisted the liana in the middle of bromelias, -“karatas,”- armed with
their sharp prickles, orchids with rosy flowers and violet lips the size
of gloves, and oncidiums more tangled than a skein of worsted between a
kitten’s paws.
And then when the liana ran down again to the ground the difficulty
of picking it out under the mass of lycopods, large-leaved heliconias,
rosy-tasseled calliandras, rhipsalas encircling it like the thread on
an electric reel, between the knots of the large white ipomas, under
the fleshy stems of the vanilla, and in the midst of the shoots and
branchlets of the grenadilla and the vine.
And when the cipo was found again what shouts of joy, and how they
resumed the walk for an instant interrupted!
For an hour the young people had already been advancing, and nothing had
happened to warn them that they were approaching the end.
They shook the liana with vigor, but it would not give, and the birds
flew away in hundreds, and the monkeys fled from tree to tree, so as to
point out the way.
If a thicket barred the road the felling-sword cut a deep gap, and the
group passed in. If it was a high rock, carpeted with verdure, over
which the liana twisted like a serpent, they climbed it and passed on.
A large break now appeared. There, in the more open air, which is as
necessary to it as the light of the sun, the tree of the tropics, -par
excellence,- which, according to Humboldt, “accompanies man in the
infancy of his civilization,” the great provider of the inhabitant of
the torrid zones, a banana-tree, was standing alone. The long festoon
of the liana curled round its higher branches, moving away to the other
side of the clearing, and disappeared again into the forest.
“Shall we stop soon?” asked Manoel.
“No; a thousand times no!” cried Benito, “not without having reached the
end of it!”
“Perhaps,” observed Minha, “it will soon be time to think of returning.”
“Oh, dearest mistress, let us go on again!” replied Lina.
“On forever!” added Benito.
And they plunged more deeply into the forest, which, becoming clearer,
allowed them to advance more easily.
Besides, the cipo bore away to the north, and toward the river. It
became less inconvenient to follow, seeing that they approached the
right bank, and it would be easy to get back afterward.
A quarter of an hour later they all stopped at the foot of a ravine in
front of a small tributary of the Amazon. But a bridge of lianas, made
of -“bejucos,”- twined together by their interlacing branches, crossed
the stream. The cipo, dividing into two strings, served for a handrail,
and passed from one bank to the other.
Benito, all the time in front, had already stepped on the swinging floor
of this vegetable bridge.
Manoel wished to keep his sister back.
“Stay--stay, Minha!” he said, “Benito may go further if he likes, but
let us remain here.”
“No! Come on, come on, dear mistress!” said Lina. “Don’t be afraid, the
liana is getting thinner; we shall get the better of it, and find out
its end!”
And, without hesitation, the young mulatto boldly ventured toward
Benito.
“What children they are!” replied Minha. “Come along, Manoel, we must
follow.”
And they all cleared the bridge, which swayed above the ravine like a
swing, and plunged again beneath the mighty trees.
But they had not proceeded for ten minutes along the interminable cipo,
in the direction of the river, when they stopped, and this time not
without cause.
“Have we got to the end of the liana?” asked Minha.
“No,” replied Benito; “but we had better advance with care. Look!” and
Benito pointed to the cipo which, lost in the branches of a high ficus,
was agitated by violent shakings.
“What causes that?” asked Manoel.
“Perhaps some animal that we had better approach with a little
circumspection!”
And Benito, cocking his gun, motioned them to let him go on a bit, and
stepped about ten paces to the front.
Manoel, the two girls, and the black remained motionless where they
were.
Suddenly Benito raised a shout, and they saw him rush toward a tree;
they all ran as well.
Sight the most unforeseen, and little adapted to gratify the eyes!
A man, hanging by the neck, struggled at the end of the liana, which,
supple as a cord, had formed into a slipknot, and the shakings came from
the jerks into which he still agitated it in the last convulsions of his
agony!
Benito threw himself on the unfortunate fellow, and with a cut of his
hunting-knife severed the cipo.
The man slipped on to the ground. Manoel leaned over him, to try and
recall him to life, if it was not too late.
“Poor man!” murmured Minha.
“Mr. Manoel! Mr. Manoel!” cried Lina. “He breathes again! His heart
beats; you must save him.”
“True,” said Manoel, “but I think it was about time that we came up.”
He was about thirty years old, a white, clothed badly enough, much
emaciated, and he seemed to have suffered a good deal.
At his feet were an empty flask, thrown on the ground, and a cup and
ball in palm wood, of which the ball, made of the head of a tortoise,
was tied on with a fiber.
“To hang himself! to hang himself!” repeated Lina, “and young still!
What could have driven him to do such a thing?”
But the attempts of Manoel had not been long in bringing the luckless
wight to life again, and he opened his eyes and gave an “ahem!” so
vigorous and unexpected that Lina, frightened, replied to his cry with
another.
“Who are you, my friend?” Benito asked him.
“An ex-hanger-on, as far as I see.”
“But your name?”
“Wait a minute and I will recall myself,” said he, passing his hand over
his forehead. “I am known as Fragoso, at your service; and I am
still able to curl and cut your hair, to shave you, and to make you
comfortable according to all the rules of my art. I am a barber, so to
speak more truly, the most desperate of Figaros.”
“And what made you think of----”
“What would you have, my gallant sir?” replied Fragoso, with a smile;
“a moment of despair, which I would have duly regretted had the regrets
been in another world! But eight hundred leagues of country to traverse,
and not a coin in my pouch, was not very comforting! I had lost courage
obviously.”
To conclude, Fragoso had a good and pleasing figure, and as he recovered
it was evident that he was of a lively disposition. He was one of those
wandering barbers who travel on the banks of the Upper Amazon, going
from village to village, and putting the resources of their art at the
service of negroes, negresses, Indians and Indian women, who appreciate
them very much.
But poor Fragoso, abandoned and miserable, having eaten nothing for
forty hours, astray in the forest, had for an instant lost his head, and
we know the rest.
“My friend,” said Benito to him, “you will go back with us to the
fazenda of Iquitos?”
“With pleasure,” replied Fragoso; “you cut me down and I belong to you.
I must somehow be dependent.”
“Well, dear mistress, don’t you think we did well to continue our walk?”
asked Lina.
“That I do,” returned the girl.
“Never mind,” said Benito; “I never thought that we should finish by
finding a man at the end of the cipo.”
“And, above all, a barber in difficulties, and on the road to hang
himself!” replied Fragoso.
The poor fellow, who was now wide awake, was told about what had passed.
He warmly thanked Lina for the good idea she had had of following the
liana, and they all started on the road to the fazenda, where Fragoso
was received in a way that gave him neither wish nor want to try his
wretched task again.
CHAPTER VIII. THE JANGADA
THE HALF-MILE square of forest was cleared. With the carpenters remained
the task of arranging in the form of a raft the many venerable trees
which were lying on the strand.
And an easy task it was. Under the direction of Joam Garral the Indians
displayed their incomparable ingenuity. In everything connected with
house-building or ship-building these natives are, it must be admitted,
astonishing workmen. They have only an ax and a saw, and they work on
woods so hard that the edge of their tools gets absolutely jagged; yet
they square up trunks, shape beams out of enormous stems, and get out of
them joists and planking without the aid of any machinery whatever, and,
endowed with prodigious natural ability, do all these things easily with
their skilled and patient hands.
The trees had not been launched into the Amazon to begin with; Joam
Garral was accustomed to proceed in a different way. The whole mass of
trunks was symmetrically arranged on a flat part of the bank, which
he had already leveled up at the junction of the Nanay with the great
river.
There it was that the jangada was to be built; thence it was that
the Amazon was to float it when the time came for it to start for its
destination.
And here an explanatory note is necessary in regard to the geography
of this immense body of water, and more especially as relating to
a singular phenomenon which the riverside inhabitants describe from
personal observation.
The two rivers which are, perhaps, more extensive than the great artery
of Brazil, the Nile and the Missouri-Mississippi, flow one from south
to north across the African continent, the other from north to south
through North America. They cross districts of many different latitudes,
and consequently of many different climates.
The Amazon, on the contrary, is entirely comprised--at least it is from
the point where it turns to the east, on the frontiers of Ecuador and
Peru--between the second and fourth parallels of south latitude. Hence
this immense river system is under the same climatic conditions during
the whole of its course.
In these parts there are two distinct seasons during which rain falls.
In the north of Brazil the rainy season is in September; in the south
it occurs in March. Consequently the right-hand tributaries and the
left-hand tributaries bring down their floods at half-yearly intervals,
and hence the level of the Amazon, after reaching its maximum in June,
gradually falls until October.
This Joam Garral knew by experience, and he intended to profit by the
phenomenon to launch the jangada, after having built it in comfort
on the river bank. In fact, between the mean and the higher level the
height of the Amazon could vary as much as forty feet, and between the
mean and the lower level as much as thirty feet. A difference of seventy
feet like this gave the fazender all he required.
The building was commenced without delay. Along the huge bank the trunks
were got into place according to their sizes and floating power, which
of course had to be taken into account, as among these thick and heavy
woods there were many whose specific gravity was but little below that
of water.
The first layer was entirely composed of trunks laid side by side.
A little interval had to be left between them, and they were bound
together by transverse beams, which assured the solidity of the whole.
-“Piaçaba”- ropes strapped them together as firmly as any chain cables
could have done. This material, which consists of the ramicles of a
certain palm-tree growing very abundantly on the river banks, is in
universal use in the district. Piaçaba floats, resists immersion, and
is cheaply made--very good reasons for causing it to be valuable, and
making it even an article of commerce with the Old World.
Above this double row of trunks and beams were disposed the joists and
planks which formed the floor of the jangada, and rose about thirty
inches above the load water-line. The bulk was enormous, as we must
confess when it is considered that the raft measured a thousand feet
long and sixty broad, and thus had a superificies of sixty thousand
square feet. They were, in fact, about to commit a whole forest to the
Amazon.
The work of building was conducted under the immediate direction of Joam
Garral. But when that part was finished the question of arrangement was
submitted to the discussion of all, including even the gallant Fragoso.
Just a word as to what he was doing in his new situation at the fazenda.
The barber had never been so happy as since the day when he had been
received by the hospitable family. Joam Garral had offered to take him
to Para, on the road to which he was when the liana, according to his
account, had seized him by the neck and brought him up with a round
turn. Fragoso had accepted the offer, thanked him from the bottom of his
heart, and ever since had sought to make himself useful in a thousand
ways. He was a very intelligent fellow--what one might call a “double
right-hander”--that is to say, he could do everything, and could do
everything well. As merry as Lina, always singing, and always ready with
some good-natured joke, he was not long in being liked by all.
But it was with the young mulatto that he claimed to have contracted the
heaviest obligation.
“A famous idea that of yours, Miss Lina,” he was constantly saying, “to
play at ‘following the liana!’ It is a capital game even if you do not
always find a poor chap of a barber at the end!”
“Quite a chance, Mr. Fragoso,” would laughingly reply Lina; “I assure
you, you owe me nothing!”
“What! nothing! I owe you my life, and I want it prolonged for a hundred
years, and that my recollection of the fact may endure even longer! You
see, it is not my trade to be hanged! If I tried my hand at it, it was
through necessity. But, on consideration, I would rather die of hunger,
and before quite going off I should try a little pasturage with the
brutes! As for this liana, it is a lien between us, and so you will
see!”
The conversation generally took a joking turn, but at the bottom Fragoso
was very grateful to the mulatto for having taken the initiative in
his rescue, and Lina was not insensible to the attentions of the brave
fellow, who was as straightforward, frank, and good-looking as she was.
Their friendship gave rise to many a pleasant, “Ah, ah!” on the part of
Benito, old Cybele, and others.
To return to the Jangada. After some discussion it was decided, as the
voyage was to be of some months’ duration, to make it as complete and
comfortable as possible. The Garral family, comprising the father,
mother, daughter, Benito, Manoel, and the servants, Cybele and Lina,
were to live in a separate house. In addition to these, there were to
go forty Indians, forty blacks, Fragoso, and the pilot who was to take
charge of the navigation of the raft.
Though the crew was large, it was not more than sufficient for the
service on board. To work the jangada along the windings of the river
and between the hundreds of islands and islets which lay in its course
required fully as many as were taken, for if the current furnished the
motive power, it had nothing to do with the steering, and the hundred
and sixty arms were no more than were necessary to work the long
boathooks by which the giant raft was to be kept in mid-stream.
In the first place, then, in the hinder part of the jangada they built
the master’s house. It was arranged to contain several bedrooms and a
large dining-hall. One of the rooms was destined for Joam and his wife,
another for Lina and Cybele near those of their mistresses, and a third
room for Benito and Manoel. Minha had a room away from the others, which
was not by any means the least comfortably designed.
This, the principal house, was carefully made of weather-boarding,
saturated with boiling resin, and thus rendered water-tight throughout.
It was capitally lighted with windows on all sides. In front, the
entrance-door gave immediate access to the common room. A light veranda,
resting on slender bamboos, protected the exterior from the direct
action of the solar rays. The whole was painted a light-ocher color,
which reflected the heat instead of absorbing it, and kept down the
temperature of the interior.
But when the heavy work, so to speak, had been completed, Minha
intervened with:
“Father, now your care has inclosed and covered us, you must allow us
to arrange our dwelling to please ourselves. The outside belongs to you,
the inside to us. Mother and I would like it to be as though our house
at the fazenda went with us on the journey, so as to make you fancy that
we had never left Iquitos!”
“Do just as you like, Minha,” replied Joam Garral, smiling in the sad
way he often did.
“That will be nice!”
“I leave everything to your good taste.”
“And that will do us honor, father. It ought to, for the sake of the
splendid country we are going through--which is yours, by the way, and
into which you are to enter after so many years’ absence.”
“Yes, Minha; yes,” replied Joam. “It is rather as if we were returning
from exile--voluntary exile! Do your best; I approve beforehand of what
you do.”
On Minha and Lina, to whom were added of their own free will Manoel on
the one side and Fragoso on the other, devolved the care of decorating
the inside of the house. With some imagination and a little artistic
feeling the result was highly satisfactory.
The best furniture of the fazenda naturally found its place within,
as after arriving in Para they could easily return it by one of the
-igariteos-. Tables, bamboo easy-chairs, cane sofas, carved wood
shelves, everything that constituted the charming furniture of the
tropics, was disposed with taste about the floating home. No one is
likely to imagine that the walls remained bare. The boards were hidden
beneath hangings of most agreeable variety. These hangings were made
of valuable bark, that of the -“tuturis,”- which is raised up in large
folds like the brocades and damasks and softest and richest materials
of our modern looms. On the floors of the rooms were jaguar skins, with
wonderful spots, and thick monkey furs of exquisite fleeciness. Light
curtains of the russet silk, produced by the -“sumauma,”- hung from the
windows. The beds, enveloped in mosquito curtains, had their pillows,
mattresses, and bolsters filled with that fresh and elastic substance
which in the Upper Amazon is yielded by the bombax.
Throughout on the shelves and side-tables were little odds and ends,
brought from Rio Janeiro or Belem, those most precious to Minha being
such as had come from Manoel. What could be more pleasing in her eyes
than the knickknacks given by a loving hand which spoke to her without
saying anything?
In a few days the interior was completed, and it looked just like the
interior of the fazenda. A stationary house under a lovely clump of
trees on the borders of some beautiful river! Until it descended between
the banks of the larger stream it would not be out of keeping with the
picturesque landscape which stretched away on each side of it.
We may add that the exterior of the house was no less charming than the
interior.
In fact, on the outside the young fellows had given free scope to their
taste and imagination.
From the basement to the roof it was literally covered with foliage. A
confused mass of orchids, bromelias, and climbing plants, all in flower,
rooted in boxes of excellent soil hidden beneath masses of verdure. The
trunk of some ficus or mimosa was never covered by a more startlingly
tropical attire. What whimsical climbers--ruby red and golden yellow,
with variegated clusters and tangled twigs--turned over the brackets,
under the ridges, on the rafters of the roof, and across the lintels
of the doors! They had brought them wholesale from the woods in the
neighborhood of the fazenda. A huge liana bound all the parasites
together; several times it made the round of the house, clinging on
to every angle, encircling every projection, forking, uniting, it
everywhere threw out its irregular branchlets, and allowed not a bit of
the house to be seen beneath its enormous clusters of bloom.
As a delicate piece of attention, the author of which can be easily
recognized, the end of the cipo spread out before the very window of
the young mulatto, as though a long arm was forever holding a bouquet of
fresh flowers across the blind.
To sum up, it was as charming as could be; and as Yaquita, her daughter,
and Lina were content, we need say no more about it.
“It would not take much to make us plant trees on the jangada,” said
Benito.
“Oh, trees!” ejaculated Minha.
“Why not?” replied Manoel. “Transported on to this solid platform,
with some good soil, I am sure they would do well, and we would have
no change of climate to fear for them, as the Amazon flows all the time
along the same parallel.”
“Besides,” said Benito, “every day islets of verdure, torn from the
banks, go drifting down the river. Do they not pass along with their
trees, bushes, thickets, rocks, and fields, to lose themselves in the
Atlantic eight hundred leagues away? Why, then, should we not transform
our raft into a floating garden?”
“Would you like a forest, miss?” said Fragoso, who stopped at nothing.
“Yes, a forest!” cried the young mulatto; “a forest with its birds and
its monkeys----”
“Its snakes, its jaguars!” continued Benito.
“Its Indians, its nomadic tribes,” added Manoel, “and even its
cannibals!”
“But where are you going to, Fragoso?” said Minha, seeing the active
barber making a rush at the bank.
“To look after the forest!” replied Fragoso.
“Useless, my friend,” answered the smiling Minha. “Manoel has given me a
nosegay and I am quite content. It is true,” she added, pointing to the
house hidden beneath the flowers, “that he has hidden our house in his
betrothal bouquet!”
CHAPTER IX. THE EVENING OF THE FIFTH OF JUNE
WHILE THE master’s house was being constructed, Joam Garral was also
busied in the arrangement of the out-buildings, comprising the kitchen,
and offices in which provisions of all kinds were intended to be stored.
In the first place, there was an important stock of the roots of that
little tree, some six or ten feet in height, which yields the
manioc, and which form the principal food of the inhabitants of these
inter-tropical countries. The root, very much like a long black radish,
grows in clumps like potatoes. If it is not poisonous in Africa, it is
certain that in South America it contains a more noxious juice, which it
is necessary to previously get rid of by pressure. When this result is
obtained, the root is reduced to flour, and is then used in many ways,
even in the form of tapioca, according to the fancy of the natives.
On board the jangada there was a huge pile of this useful product
destined for general consumption.
As for preserved meats, not forgetting a whole flock of sheep, kept in
a special stable built in the front, they consisted principally of
a quantity of the -“presunto”- hams of the district, which are of
first-class quality; but the guns of the young fellows and of some of
the Indians were reckoned on for additional supplies, excellent hunters
as they were, to whom there was likely to be no lack of game on the
islands and in the forests bordering on the stream. The river was
expected to furnish its daily quota; prawns, which ought rather to be
called crawfish; -“tambagus,”- the finest fish in the district, of
a flavor superior to that of salmon, to which it is often compared;
-“pirarucus”- with red scales, as large as sturgeons, which when salted
are used in great quantities throughout Brazil; -“candirus,”- awkward to
capture, but good to eat; -“piranhas,”- or devil-fish, striped with
red bands, and thirty inches long; turtles large and small, which
are counted by millions, and form so large a part of the food of the
natives; some of every one of these things it was hoped would figure in
turn on the tables of the master and his men.
And so each day shooting and fishing were to be regularly indulged in.
For beverages they had a good store of the best that country produced;
-“caysuma”- or -“machachera,”- from the Upper and Lower Amazon, an
agreeable liquor of slightly acidulated taste, which is distilled from
the boiled root of the sweet manioc; -“beiju,”- from Brazil, a sort of
national brandy, the -“chica”- of Peru; the -“mazato”- of the Ucayali,
extracted from the boiled fruits of the banana-tree, pressed and
fermented; -“guarana,”- a kind of paste made from the double almond of
the -“paulliniasorbilis,”- a genuine tablet of chocolate so far as its
color goes, which is reduced to a fine powder, and with the addition of
water yields an excellent drink.
And this was not all. There is in these countries a species of dark
violet wine, which is got from the juice of the palm, and the aromatic
flavor of this -“assais”- is greatly appreciated by the Brazilans, and
of it there were on board a respectable number of frasques (each holding
a little more than half a gallon), which would probably be emptied
before they arrived at Para.
The special cellar of the jangada did honor to Benito, who had been
appointed its commander-in-chief. Several hundred bottles of sherry,
port, and letubal recalled names dear to the earlier conquerors of
South America. In addition, the young butler had stored away certain
demijohns, holding half a dozen gallons each, of excellent -“tafia,”-
a sugared brandy a trifle more pronounced in taste than the national
-beiju-.
As far as tobacco was concerned, there was none of that coarse kind
which usually contents the natives of the Amazonian basin. It all came
direct from Villa Bella da Imperatriz--or, in other words, fro the
district in which is grown the best tobacco in Central America.
The principal habitation, with its annexes--kitchen, offices, and
cellars--was placed in the rear--or, let us say, stern of the craft--and
formed a part reserved for the Garral family and their personal
servants.
In the center the huts for the Indians and the blacks had been erected.
The staff were thus placed under the same conditions as at the fazenda
of Iquitos, and would always be able to work under the direction of the
pilot.
To house the crew a good many huts were required, and these gave to the
jangada the appearance of a small village got adrift, and, to tell the
truth, it was a better built and better peopled village than many of
those on the Upper Amazon.
For the Indians Joam Garral had designed regular cabins--huts without
walls, with only light poles supporting the roof of foliage. The air
circulated freely throughout these open constructions and swung the
hammock suspended in the interior, and the natives, among whom were
three or four complete families, with women and children, were lodged as
if they were on shore.
The blacks here found their customary sheds. They differed from the
cabins by being closed in on their four faces, of which only one gave
access to the interior. The Indians, accustomed to live in the open
air, free and untrammeled, were not able to accustom themselves to the
imprisonment of the -ajoupas,- which agreed better with the life of the
blacks.
In the bow regular warehouses had arisen, containing the goods which
Joam Garral was carrying to Belem at the same time as the products of
his forests.
There, in vast storerooms, under the direction of Benito, the rich cargo
had been placed with as much order as if it had been carefully stowed
away in a ship’s hold.
In the first place, seven thousand arrobas of caoutchouc, each of about
thirty pounds, composed the most precious part of the cargo, for every
pound of it was worth from three to four francs. The jangada also took
fifty hundredweight of sarsaparilla, a smilax which forms an important
branch of foreign trade throughout the Amazon districts, and is getting
rarer and rarer along the banks of the river, so that the natives are
very careful to spare the stems when they gather them. Tonquin
bans, known in Brazil under the name of -“cumarus,”- and used in
the manufacture of certain essential oils; sassafras, from which is
extracted a precious balsam for wounds; bales of dyeing plants, cases of
several gums, and a quantity of precious woods, completed a well-adapted
cargo for lucrative and easy sale in the provinces of Para.
Some may feel astonished that the number of Indians and negroes embarked
were only sufficient to work the raft, and that a larger number were not
taken in case of an attack by the riverside Indians.
Such would have been useless. The natives of Central America are not
to be feared in the least, and the times are quite changed since it was
necessary to provide against their aggressions. The Indians along the
river belong to peaceable tribes, and the fiercest of them have retired
before the advancing civilization, and drawn further and further away
from the river and its tributaries. Negro deserters, escaped from the
penal colonies of Brazil, England, Holland, or France, are alone to be
feared. But there are only a small number of these fugitives, they
only move in isolated groups across the savannahs or the woods, and the
jangada was, in a measure, secured from any attack on the parts of the
backwoodsmen.
On the other hand, there were a number of settlements on the
river--towns, villages, and missions. The immense stream no longer
traverses a desert, but a basin which is being colonized day by day.
Danger was not taken into consideration. There were no precautions
against attacks.
To conclude our description of the jangada, we have only to speak of
one or two erections of different kinds which gave it a very picturesque
aspect.
In the bow was the cabin of the pilot--we say in the bow, and not at the
stern, where the helmsman is generally found. In navigating under such
circumstances a rudder is of no use. Long oars have no effect on a raft
of such dimensions, even when worked with a hundred sturdy arms. It was
from the sides, by means of long boathooks or props thrust against the
bed of the stream, that the jangada was kept in the current, and had
its direction altered when going astray. By this means they could range
alongside either bank, if they wished for any reason to come to a halt.
Three or four ubas, and two pirogues, with the necessary rigging, were
carried on board, and afforded easy communications with the banks. The
pilot had to look after the channels of the river, the deviations of the
current, the eddies which it was necessary to avoid, the creeks or bays
which afforded favorable anchorage, and to do this he had to be in the
bow.
If the pilot was the material director of this immense machine--for can
we not justly call it so?--another personage was its spiritual director;
this was Padre Passanha, who had charge of the mission at Iquitos.
A religious family, like that of Joam Garral’s, had availed themselves
enthusiastically of this occasion of taking him with them.
Padre Passanha, then aged seventy, was a man of great worth, full of
evangelical fervor, charitable and good, and in countries where the
representatives of religion are not always examples of the virtues, he
stood out as the accomplished type of those great missionaries who have
done so much for civilization in the interior of the most savage regions
of the world.
For fifty years Padre Passanha had lived at Iquitos, in the mission of
which he was the chief. He was loved by all, and worthily so. The Garral
family held him in great esteem; it was he who had married the daughter
of Farmer Magalhaës to the clerk who had been received at the fazenda.
He had known the children from birth; he had baptized them, educated
them, and hoped to give each of them the nuptial blessing.
The age of the padre did not allow of his exercising his important
ministry any longer. The horn of retreat for him had sounded; he was
about to be replaced at Iquitos by a younger missionary, and he was
preparing to return to Para, to end his days in one of those convents
which are reserved for the old servants of God.
What better occasion could offer than that of descending the river with
the family which was as his own? They had proposed it to him, and he had
accepted, and when arrived at Belem he was to marry the young couple,
Minha and Manoel.
But if Padre Passanha during the course of the voyage was to take his
meals with the family, Joam Garral desired to build for him a dwelling
apart, and heaven knows what care Yaquita and her daughter took to make
him comfortable! Assuredly the good old priest had never been so lodged
in his modest parsonage!
The parsonage was not enough for Padre Passanha; he ought to have a
chapel.
The chapel then was built in the center of the jangada, and a little
bell surmounted it.
It was small enough, undoubtedly, and it could not hold the whole of
the crew, but it was richly decorated, and if Joam Garral found his
own house on the raft, Padre Passanha had no cause to regret the
poverty-stricken church of Iquitos.
Such was the wonderful structure which was going down the Amazon. It was
then on the bank waiting till the flood came to carry it away. From the
observation and calculation of the rising it would seem as though there
was not much longer to wait.
All was ready to date, the 5th of June.
The pilot arrived the evening before. He was a man about fifty, well up
in his profession, but rather fond of drink. Such as he was, Joam Garral
in large matters at different times had employed him to take his rafts
to Belem, and he had never had cause to repent it.
It is as well to add that Araujo--that was his name--never saw better
than when he had imbibed a few glasses of tafia; and he never did any
work at all without a certain demijohn of that liquor, to which he paid
frequent court.
The rise of the flood had clearly manifested itself for several days.
From minute to minute the level of the river rose, and during the
twenty-four hours which preceded the maximum the waters covered the bank
on which the raft rested, but did not lift the raft.
As soon as the movement was assured, and there could be no error as to
the height to which the flood would rise, all those interested in the
undertaking were seized with no little excitement. For if through some
inexplicable cause the waters of the Amazon did not rise sufficiently to
flood the jangada, it would all have to be built over again. But as the
fall of the river would be very rapid it would take long months before
similar conditions recurred.
On the 5th of June, toward the evening, the future passengers of the
jangada were collected on a plateau which was about a hundred feet above
the bank, and waited for the hour with an anxiety quite intelligible.
There were Yaquita, her daughter, Manoel Valdez, Padre Passanha, Benito,
Lina, Fragoso, Cybele, and some of the servants, Indian or negro, of the
fazenda.
Fragoso could not keep himself still; he went and he came, he ran down
the bank and ran up the plateau, he noted the points of the river gauge,
and shouted “Hurrah!” as the water crept up.
“It will swim, it will swim!” he shouted. “The raft which is to take us
to Belem! It will float if all the cataracts of the sky have to open to
flood the Amazon!”
Joam Garral was on the raft with the pilot and some of the crew. It was
for him to take all the necessary measures at the critical moment. The
jangada was moored to the bank with solid cables, so that it could not
be carried away by the current when it floated off.
Quite a tribe from one hundred and fifty to two hundred Indians, without
counting the population of the village, had come to assist at the
interesting spectacle.
They were all keenly on the watch, and silence reigned over the
impressionable crowd.
Toward five o’clock in the evening the water had reached a level higher
than that of the night before--by more than a foot--and the bank had
already entirely disappeared beneath the liquid covering.
A certain groaning arose among the planks of the enormous structure,
but there was still wanting a few inches before it was quite lifted and
detached from the ground.
For an hour the groanings increased. The joists grated on all sides. A
struggle was going on in which little by little the trunks were being
dragged from their sandy bed.
Toward half-past six cries of joy arose. The jangada floated at
last, and the current took it toward the middle of the river, but, in
obedience to the cables, it quietly took up its position near the bank
at the moment that Padre Passanha gave it his blessing, as if it were
a vessel launched into the sea whose destinies are in the hands of the
Most High!
CHAPTER X. FROM IQUITOS TO PEVAS
ON THE 6th of June, the very next day, Joam Garral and his people bade
good-by to the superintendent and the Indians and negroes who were to
stay behind at the fazenda. At six o’clock in the morning the jangada
received all its passengers, or rather inhabitants, and each of them
took possession of his cabin, or perhaps we had better say his house.
The moment of departure had come. Araujo, the pilot, got into his place
at the bow, and the crew, armed with their long poles, went to their
proper quarters.
Joam Garral, assisted by Benito and Manoel, superintended the unmooring.
At the command of the pilot the ropes were eased off, and the poles
applied to the bank so as to give the jangada a start. The current
was not long in seizing it, and coasting the left bank, the islands of
Iquitos and Parianta were passed on the right.
The voyage had commenced--where would it finish? In Para, at Belem,
eight hundred leagues from this little Peruvian village, if nothing
happened to modify the route. How would it finish? That was the secret
of the future.
The weather was magnificent. A pleasant -“pampero”- tempered the ardor
of the sun--one of those winds which in June or July come from off the
Cordilleras, many hundred leagues away, after having swept across the
huge plain of the Sacramento. Had the raft been provided with masts and
sails she would have felt the effects of the breeze, and her speed would
have been greater; but owing to the sinuosities of the river and
its abrupt changes, which they were bound to follow, they had had to
renounce such assistance.
In a flat district like that through which the Amazon flows, which is
almost a boundless plain, the gradient of the river bed is scarcely
perceptible. It has been calculated that between Tabatinga on the
Brazilian frontier, and the source of this huge body of water, the
difference of level does not exceed a decimeter in each league. There is
no other river in the world whose inclination is so slight.
It follows from this that the average speed of the current cannot be
estimated at more than two leagues in twenty-four hours, and sometimes,
while the droughts are on, it is even less. However, during the period
of the floods it has been known to increase to between thirty and forty
kilometers.
Happily, it was under these latter conditions that the jangada was to
proceed; but, cumbrous in its movements, it could not keep up to the
speed of the current which ran past it. There are also to be taken into
account the stoppages occasioned by the bends in the river, the numerous
islands which had to be rounded, the shoals which had to be avoided, and
the hours of halting, which were necessarily lost when the night was too
dark to advance securely, so that we cannot allow more than twenty-five
kilometers for each twenty-four hours.
In addition, the surface of the water is far from being completely
clear. Trees still green, vegetable remains, islets of plants constantly
torn from the banks, formed quite a flotilla of fragments carried on by
the currents, and were so many obstacles to speedy navigation.
The mouth of the Nanay was soon passed, and lost to sight behind a point
on the left bank, which, with its carpet of russet grasses tinted by the
sun, formed a ruddy relief to the green forests on the horizon.
The jangada took the center of the stream between the numerous
picturesque islands, of which there are a dozen between Iquitos and
Pucalppa.
Araujo, who did not forget to clear his vision and his memory by an
occasional application to his demijohn, maneuvered very ably when
passing through this archipelago. At his word of command fifty poles
from each side of the raft were raised in the air, and struck the water
with an automatic movement very curious to behold.
While this was going on, Yaquita, aided by Lina and Cybele, was getting
everything in order, and the Indian cooks were preparing the breakfast.
As for the two young fellows and Minha, they were walking up and down in
company with Padre Passanha, and from time to time the lady stopped
and watered the plants which were placed about the base of the
dwelling-house.
“Well, padre,” said Benito, “do you know a more agreeable way of
traveling?”
“No, my dear boy,” replied the padre; “it is truly traveling with all
one’s belongings.”
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440
441
442
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444
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450
451
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456
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459
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460
461
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474
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477
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489
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521
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529
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543
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553
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555
556
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558
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574
575
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,
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,
779
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780
,
781
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782
783
-
-
784
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,
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786
787
,
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788
.
789
790
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791
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,
793
794
795
.
796
797
,
798
.
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.
799
;
800
.
801
;
,
802
,
.
803
804
805
.
;
806
,
807
,
808
.
809
810
811
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812
,
,
813
.
814
815
816
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817
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818
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821
;
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.
823
824
,
825
.
826
827
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828
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829
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830
-
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831
832
.
833
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834
835
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836
837
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839
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842
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843
844
-
-
-
-
845
;
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,
847
.
848
849
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,
851
-
852
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853
854
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,
856
.
857
858
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859
860
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861
862
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863
864
,
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865
866
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,
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867
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868
.
869
870
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871
,
,
872
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874
«
,
!
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875
!
876
!
»
877
878
.
879
.
880
,
881
.
882
883
,
884
,
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.
886
887
,
888
.
889
890
’
891
-
-
-
-
892
.
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894
,
895
896
.
897
898
.
.
899
900
.
901
902
-
.
903
,
,
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904
,
905
,
906
907
!
908
909
910
911
912
.
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914
,
,
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-
916
.
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917
,
,
918
,
.
919
920
.
,
,
921
,
,
,
922
.
923
924
,
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.
925
926
,
927
.
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,
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929
.
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931
-
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,
932
,
933
.
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934
.
935
936
.
-
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937
-
-
938
,
,
939
.
940
,
941
;
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,
,
943
.
944
945
,
946
,
947
.
948
,
,
949
.
950
.
951
952
953
-
,
,
954
,
.
,
955
956
.
957
958
,
959
;
,
,
960
.
961
,
962
,
,
963
,
964
,
-
965
-
.
966
967
,
968
.
,
,
969
,
970
,
.
971
972
,
973
,
,
974
,
.
975
976
977
,
978
.
979
980
,
981
,
982
.
983
,
984
.
985
986
,
,
,
987
,
.
988
989
,
990
,
991
992
-
.
993
994
«
,
,
»
,
«
995
?
»
996
997
«
,
,
»
;
«
998
’
.
»
999
1000