visitors. A black coat or the waistcoat of an English uniform was the
only garment worn by some, whilst others contented themselves with a
jacket, a shirt, or a pair of trousers. The most fortunate were wrapped
in cloth mantles, and rich and poor alike dispensed with shoes and
stockings.
The women were no less grotesquely clad. Some wore men's shirts, white
or striped as the case might be, others a mere piece of cloth; but all
had European hats. The wives of the Areois[3] wore coloured robes, a
piece of great extravagance, but with them the dress formed the whole
costume.
[Footnote 3: The Areois are a curious vagrant set of people, who have
been found in these regions, who practise the singular and fatal custom
of killing their children at birth, because of a traditional law
binding them to do so.---Trans.-]
On the Monday a most imposing ceremony took place. This was the visit
to Kotzebue of the queen-mother and the royal family. These great
people were preceded by a master of ceremonies, who was a sort of court
fool wearing nothing but a red waistcoat, and with his legs tattooed to
represent striped trousers, whilst on the lower portion of his back was
described a quadrant divided into minute sections. He performed his
absurd capers, contortions, and grimaces with a gravity infinitely
amusing.
The queen regent carried the little king Pomaré III. in her arms, and
beside her walked his sister, a pretty child of ten years old. The
royal infant was dressed in European style, like his subjects, and like
them, he wore nothing on his feet. At the request of the ministers and
great people of Otaheite, Kotzebue had a pair of boots made for him,
which he was to wear on the day of his coronation.
Great were the shouts of joy, the gestures of delight, and the envious
exclamations over the trifles distributed amongst the ladies of the
court, and fierce were the struggles for the smallest shreds of the
imitation gold lace given away.
What important matter could have brought so many men on to the deck of
the frigate, bearing with them quantities of fruits and figs? These
eager messengers were the husbands of the disappointed ladies of
Otaheite who had not been present at the division of the gold lace more
valuable in their eyes than rivers of diamonds in those of Europeans.
At the end of ten days, Kotzebue decided to leave this strange country,
where civilization and barbarism flourished side by side in a manner so
fraternal, and steered for the Samoa Archipelago, notorious for the
massacre of the companions of La Pérouse.
How great was the difference between the Samoans and the Otaheitians!
Wild and fierce, suspicious and threatening, the natives of Rose Island
could scarcely be kept off the deck of the -Predpriatie-, and one of
them at the sight of the bare arm of a sailor made a savage and
eloquent gesture showing with what pleasure he could devour the firm
and doubtless savoury flesh displayed to view.
The insolence of the natives increased with the arrival of more canoes
from the shore, and they had to be beaten back with boathooks before
the -Predpriatie- could get away from amongst the frail boats of the
ferocious islanders.
Upolu or Oyalava, Platte and Pola or Savai Islands, which with Rose
Island form part of the Navigator or Samoan group, were passed almost
as soon as they were sighted; and Kotzebue steered for the Radak
Islands, where he had been so kindly received on his first voyage. This
time, however, the natives were terrified at sight of the huge vessel,
and piled up their canoes or fled into the interior, whilst on the
beach a procession was formed, a number of islanders with palm branches
in their hands advancing to meet the intruders and beg for peace.
At this sight, Kotzebue flung himself into a boat with the surgeon
Eschscholtz, and rowing rapidly towards the shore, shouted: "Totabou
aïdara" (Kotzebue, friend). An immediate change was the result; the
petitions the natives were going to address to the Russians were
converted into shouts and enthusiastic demonstrations of delight, some
rushing forwards to welcome their friend, others running over to
announce his arrival to their fellow-countrymen.
The commander was very pleased to find that Kadu was still living at
Aur, under the protection of Lamary, whose countenance he had secured
at the price of half his wealth.
Of all the animals left here by Kotzebue, the cats, now become wild
alone, had survived, and thus far they had not destroyed the legions of
rats with which the island was overrun.
The explorer remained several days with his friends, whom he
entertained with dramatic representations; and on the 6th May he made
for the Legiep group, the examination of which he had left uncompleted
on his last voyage. After surveying it, he intended to resume his
exploration of the Radak Islands, but bad weather prevented this, and
he had to set sail for Kamtchatka.
The crew here enjoyed the rest so fully earned, from the 7th June to
the 20th July, when Kotzebue set sail for New Archangel on the American
coast, where he cast anchor on the 7th August.
The frigate, which was here to take the place of the -Predpriatie-, was
not however ready for sea until the 1st March of the following year,
and Kotzebue turned the delay to account by visiting the Sandwich
Islands, where he cast anchor off Waihou in December, 1824.
The harbour of Hono-kourou or Honolulu is the safest of the
archipelago; a good many vessels therefore put in there even at this
early date, and the island of Waihou bid fair to become the most
important of the group, supplanting Hawaii or Owhyee. The appearance of
the town was already semi-European, stone houses replaced the primitive
native huts, regular streets with shops, café, public-houses, much
patronized by the sailors of whalers and fur-traders, together with a
fortress provided with cannon, were the most noteworthy signs of the
rapid transformation of the manners and customs of the natives.
Fifty years had now elapsed since the discovery of most of the islands
of Oceania, and everywhere changes had taken place as sudden as those
in the Sandwich Islands.
"The fur trade," says Desborough Cooley, carried on with the north-west
coast of America, "has effected a wonderful revolution in the Sandwich
Islands, which from their situation offered an advantageous shelter for
ships engaged in it. Among these islands the fur-traders wintered,
refitted their vessels, and replenished their stock of fresh
provisions; and, as summer approached, returned to complete their cargo
on the coast of America. Iron tools and, above all, guns were eagerly
sought for by the islanders in exchange for their provisions; and the
mercenery traders, regardless of consequences, readily gratified their
desires. Fire-arms and ammunition being the most profitable stock to
traffic with were supplied them in abundance. Hence the Sandwich
islanders soon became formidable to their visitors; they seized on
several small vessels, and displayed an energy tinctured at first with
barbarity, but indicating great capabilities of social improvement. At
this period, one of those extraordinary characters which seldom fail to
come forth when fate is charged with great events, completed the
revolution, which had its origin in the impulse of Europeans.
Tame-tame-hah, a chief, who had made himself conspicuous during the
last and unfortunate visit of Cook to those islands, usurped the
authority of king, subdued the neighbouring islands with an army of
16,000 men, and made his conquests subservient to his grand schemes of
improvement. He knew the superiority of Europeans, and was proud to
imitate them. Already, in 1796, when Captain Broughton visited those
islands, the usurper sent to ask him whether he should salute him with
great guns. He always kept Englishmen about him as ministers and
advisers. In 1817, he is said to have had an army of 7000 men, armed
with muskets, among whom were at least fifty Europeans. Tame-tame-hah,
who began his career in blood and usurpation, lived to gain the sincere
love and admiration of his subjects, who regarded him as more than
human, and mourned his death with tears of warmer affection than often
bedew the ashes of royalty."
[Illustration: One of the guard of the King of the Sandwich Islands.
(Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
Such was the state of things when the Russian expedition put in at
Waihou. The young king Rio-Rio was in England with his wife, and the
government of the archipelago was in the hands of the queen-mother,
Kaahou Manou.
Kotzebue took advantage of the latter and of the first minister both
being absent on a neighbouring island, to pay a visit to another wife
of Kamea-Mea.
"The apartment," says the traveller, "was furnished in the European
fashion, with chairs, tables, and looking-glasses. In one corner stood
an immensely large bed with silk curtains; the floor was covered with
fine mats, and on these, in the middle of the room, lay Nomahanna,
extended on her stomach, her head turned towards the door, and her arms
supported on a silk pillow.... Nomahanna, who appeared at the utmost
not more than forty years old, was exactly six feet two inches high,
and rather more than two ells in circumference.... Her coal-black hair
was neatly plaited, at the top of a head as round as a ball; her flat
nose and thick projecting lips were certainly not very handsome, yet
was her countenance on the whole prepossessing and agreeable."
The "good lady" remembered having seen Kotzebue ten years before. She,
therefore, received him graciously, but she could not speak of her
husband without tears in her eyes, and her grief did not appear to be
assumed. In order that the date of his death should be ever-present to
her mind she had had the inscription 6th May, 1819, branded on her arm.
A zealous Christian, like most of the population, the queen took
Kotzebue to the church, a vast but simple building, not nearly so
crowded as that at Otaheite. Nomahanna seemed to be very intelligent,
she knew how to read and was specially enthusiastic about writing, that
art which connects us with the absent. Being anxious to give the
commander a proof alike of her affection and of her acquirements she
sent him a letter by hand which it had taken her several weeks to
concoct.
The other ladies did not like to be outdone, and Kotzebue found himself
overwhelmed with documents. The only means to check this epistolatory
inundation was to weigh anchor, which the captain did without loss of
time.
Before his departure he received queen Nomahanna on board. Her Majesty
appeared in her robes of ceremony, consisting of a magnificent
peach-coloured silk dress embroidered with black, evidently originally
made for a European, and consequently too tight and too short for its
wearer. People could, therefore, see not only the feet, beside which
those of Charlemagne would have looked like a Chinaman's, and which
were cased in huge men's boots, but also a pair of fat, brown, naked
legs resembling the balustrades of a terrace. A collar of red and
yellow feathers, a garland of natural flowers, serving as a gorget, and
a hat of Leghorn straw, trimmed with artificial flowers, completed this
fine but absurd costume.
Nomahanna went over the ship, asking questions about everything, and at
last, worn out with seeing so many wonders, betook herself to the
captain's cabin, where a good collation was spread for her. The queen
flung herself upon a couch, but the fragile article of furniture was
unable to sustain so much majesty, and gave way beneath the weight of a
princess, whose -embonpoint- had doubtless had a good deal to do with
her elevation to such high rank.
After this halt Kotzebue returned to New Archangel, where he remained
until the 30th July, 1825. He then paid another visit to the Sandwich
Islands a short time after Admiral Byron had brought back the remains
of the king and queen. The archipelago was then at peace, its
prosperity was continually on the increase, the influence of the
missionaries was confirmed, and the education of the young monarch was
in the hands of Missionary Bingham. The inhabitants were deeply touched
by the honours accorded by the English to the remains of their
sovereigns, and the day seemed to be not far distant when European
customs would completely supersede those of the natives.
Some provisions having been embarked at Waihou, the explorer made for
Radak Islands, identified the Pescadores, forming the southern
extremity of that chain, discovered the Eschscholtz group, a short
distance off, and touched at Guam on the 15th October. On the 23rd
January, 1826, he left Manilla after a stay of some months, during
which constant intercourse with the natives had enabled him to add
greatly to our knowledge of the geography and natural history of the
Philippine islands. A new Spanish governor had arrived with a large
reinforcement of troops, and had so completely crushed all agitation
that the colonists had quite given up their scheme of separating
themselves from Spain.
On the 10th July, 1826, the -Predpriatie- returned to Cronstadt, after
a voyage extending over three years, during which she had visited the
north-west coast of America, the Aleutian Islands, Kamtchatka, and the
Sea of Oktoksh; surveyed minutely a great part of the Radak Islands,
and obtained fresh information on the changes through which the people
of Oceania were passing. Thanks to the ardour of Chamisso and Professor
Eschscholtz, many specimens of natural history had been collected, and
the latter published a description of more than 2000 animals, as well
as some curious details on the mode of formation of the Coral islands
in the South Seas.
The English government had now resumed with eagerness the study of the
tantalizing problem, the solution of which had been sought so long in
vain. We allude to the finding of the north-west passage. When Parry by
sea and Franklin by land were trying to reach Behring Strait, Captain
Frederick William Beechey received instructions to penetrate as far
north as possible by way of the same strait so as to meet the other
explorers, who would doubtless arrive in a state of exhaustion from
fatigue and privation.
The -Blossom-, Captain Beechey commander, set sail from Spithead on the
19th May, 1825, and after doubling Cape Horn on the 26th December,
entered the Pacific Ocean. After a short stay off the coast of Chili,
Beechey visited Easter Island, where the same incidents which had
marked Kotzebue's visit were repeated. The same eager reception on the
part of the natives, who swam to the -Blossom- or brought their paltry
merchandise to it in canoes, and the same shower of stones and blows
from clubs when the English landed, repulsed, as in the Russian
explorer's time, with a rapid discharge of shot.
On the 4th December, Captain Beechey sighted an island completely
overgrown with vegetation. This was the spot famous for the discovery
on it of the descendants of the mutineers of the -Bounty-, who landed
on it after the enactment of a tragedy, which at the end of last
century had excited intense public interest in England.
In 1781 Lieutenant Bligh, one of the officers who had distinguished
himself under Cook, was appointed to the command of the -Bounty-, and
received orders to go to Otaheite, there to obtain specimens of the
breadfruit-tree and other of its vegetable productions for
transportation to the Antilles, then generally known amongst the
English as the Western Indies. After doubling Cape Horn, Bligh cast
anchor in the Bay of Matavai, where he shipped a cargo of
breadfruit-trees, proceeding thence to Ramouka, one of the Tonga Isles,
for more of the same valuable growth. Thus far no special incident
marked the course of the voyage, which seemed likely to end happily.
But the haughty character and stern, despotic manners of the commander
had alienated from him the affections of nearly the whole of his crew.
A plot was formed against him which was carried out before sunrise on
the 28th April, off Tofona.
Surprised by the mutineers whilst still in bed, Bligh was bound and
gagged before he could defend himself, and dragged on deck in his
night-shirt, and after a mock trial, presided over by Lieutenant
Christian Fletcher, he, with eighteen men who remained faithful to him,
was lowered into a boat containing a few provisions, and abandoned in
the open sea.
After enduring agonies of hunger and thirst, and escaping from terrible
storms and from the teeth of the savage natives of Tofona, Bligh
succeeded in reaching Timor Island, where he received an enthusiastic
welcome.
"I now desired my people to come on shore," says Bligh, "which was as
much as some of them could do, being scarce able to walk; they,
however, were helped to the house, and found tea with bread and butter
provided for their breakfast.... Our bodies were nothing but skin and
bones, our limbs were full of sores, and we were clothed in rags; in
this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude flowing down our
cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture of horror,
surprise, and pity.... Thus, through the assistance of Divine
Providence, we surmounted the difficulties and distresses of a most
perilous voyage."
Perilous, indeed, for it had lasted no less than forty-one days in
latitudes but little known, in an open boat, with insufficient food,
want and exposure causing infinite suffering. Yet in this voyage of
more than 1500 leagues but one man was lost, a sailor who fell a victim
at the beginning of the journey to the natives of Tofona.
The fate of the mutineers was strange, and more than one lesson may be
learnt from it.
They made for Otaheite, where provisions were obtained, and those who
had been least active in the mutiny were abandoned, and thence
Christian set sail with eight sailors, who elected to remain with him,
and some twenty-two natives, men and women from Otaheite and Toubonai.
Nothing more was heard of them!
As for those who remained at Otaheite, they were taken prisoners in
1791 by Captain Edwards of the -Pandora-, sent out by the English
Government in search of them and the other mutineers, with orders to
bring them to England. Of the ten who were brought home by the
-Pandora-, only three were condemned to death.
Twenty years passed by before the slightest light was thrown on the
fate of Christian and those he took with him.
In 1808 an American trading-vessel touched at Pitcairn, there to
complete her cargo of seal-skins. The captain imagined the island to be
uninhabited, but to his very great surprise a canoe presently
approached his ship manned by three young men of colour, who spoke
English very well. Greatly astonished, the commander questioned them,
and learnt that their father had served under Bligh.
The fate of the latter was now known to the whole world, and its
discussion had lightened the tedious hours in the forecastles of
vessels of every nationality, and the American captain, reminded by the
singular incident related above of the disappearance of so many of the
mutineers of the -Bounty-, landed on the island, where he met an
Englishman named Smith, who had belonged to the crew of that vessel,
and who made the following confession.
When he left Otaheite, Christian made direct for Pitcairn, attracted to
it by its lonely situation, south of the Pomautou Islands, and out of
the general track of vessels. After landing the provisions of the
-Bounty- and taking away all the fittings which could be of any use,
the mutineers burnt the vessel not only with a view to removing all
trace of their whereabouts, but also to prevent the escape of any of
their number.
From the first the sight of the extensive marshes led them to believe
the island to be uninhabited, and they were soon convinced of the
justice of this opinion. Huts were built and land was cleared; but the
English charitably assigned to the natives, whom they had carried off
or who had elected to join them, the position of slaves. Two years
passed by without any serious dissensions arising, but at the end of
that time the natives laid a plot against the whites, of which,
however, the latter were informed by an Otaheitan woman, and the two
leaders paid for their abortive attempt with their lives.
Two more years of peace and tranquillity ensued, and then another plot
was laid, this time resulting in the massacre of Christian and five of
his comrades. The murder, however, was avenged by the native women, who
mourned for their English lovers and killed the surviving men of
Otaheite.
A little later the discovery of a plant, from which a kind of brandy
could be made, caused the death of one of the four Englishmen still
remaining, another was murdered by his companions, a third died a
natural death, and the last one, Smith, took the name of Adams and
lived on at the head of a community, consisting of ten women and
nineteen children, the eldest of whom were but seven or eight years
old.
This man, who had reflected on his errors and repented of them, now led
a new life, fulfilling the duties of father, priest, and sovereign, his
combined firmness and justice acquiring for him an all-powerful
influence over his motley subjects.
This strange teacher of morality, who in his youth had set all laws at
defiance, and to whom no obligation was sacred, now preached pity,
love, and sympathy, arranged regular marriages between the children of
different parents, his little community thriving lustily under the mild
yet firm control of one who had but lately turned from his own evil
ways.
Such at the time of Beechey's arrival was the state of the colony at
Pitcairn. The navigator, well received by the inhabitants, whose
virtuous conduct recalled the golden age, remained amongst them
eighteen days. The village consisted of clean, well-built huts,
surrounded by pandanus and cocoa-palms; the fields were well
cultivated, and under Adams' tuition the young people had made
implements of agriculture of really extraordinary excellence. The faces
of these half breeds were good-looking and pleasant in expression, and
their figures were well-proportioned, showing unusual muscular
development.
[Illustration: "The village consisted of clean, well-built huts."]
After leaving Pitcairn, Beechey visited Crescent, Gambier, Hood,
Clermont, Tonnerre, Serles, Whitsunday, Queen-Charlotte, Tehaï, and the
Lancer Islands, all in the Pomautou group, and an islet to which he
gave the name of Byam-Martin.
Here the explorer met a native named Ton-Wari, who had been shipwrecked
in a storm. Having left Anaa with 500 fellow-countrymen in three canoes
to render homage to Pomaré III., who had just ascended the throne,
Ton-Wari had been driven out of his course by westerly winds. These
were succeeded by variable breezes, and provisions were soon so
completely exhausted that the survivors had to feed on the bodies of
those who were the first to succumb. Finally Ton-Wari arrived at Barrow
Island in the centre of the Dangerous Archipelago, where he obtained a
small stock of provisions, and after a long delay, his canoe having
been stove in off Byam-Martin, once more put to sea.
Beechey yielded under considerable persuasion to Ton-Wari's entreaty to
be received on board with his wife and children and taken to Otaheite.
The next day, by one of those strange chances seldom occurring except
in fiction, Beechey stopped at Heïon, where Ton-Wari met his brother,
who had supposed him to be long since dead. After the first transports
of delight and surprise the two natives sat down side by side, and
holding each others hands related their several adventures.
Beechey left Heïon on the 10th February, sighted Melville and Croker
Islands, and cast anchor on the 18th off Otaheite, where he had some
difficulty in obtaining provisions. The natives now demanded good
Chilian dollars and European clothing, both of which were altogether
wanting on the -Blossom-.
After receiving a visit from the queen-mother, Beechey was invited to a
-soirée- given in his honour in the palace at Papeïti. When the English
arrived, however, they found everybody sound asleep, the hostess having
forgotten all about her invitation, and gone to bed earlier than usual.
She received her guests none the less cordially however, and organized
a little dance in spite of the remonstrances of the missionaries; only
the -fête- had to be conducted so to speak in silence, that the noise
might not reach the ears of the police on duty on the beach. From this
incident we can guess the amount of liberty the missionary Pritchard
allowed to the most exalted personages of Otaheite. What must the
discipline then have been for the common herd of the natives!
On the 3rd April the young king paid a visit to Beechey, who gave him,
on behalf of the Admiralty, a fine fowling-piece. Very friendly was the
intercourse which ensued, and the good influence the English
missionaries had obtained was strengthened by the cordiality and tact
of the ship's officers.
Leaving Otaheite on the 26th April, Beechey reached the Sandwich
Islands, where he remained some ten days, and then set sail for Behring
Strait and the Arctic Ocean. His instructions were to skirt along the
North American coast as far as the state of the ice would permit. The
-Blossom- made a halt in Kotzebue Bay, a desolate, forbidding, and
inhospitable spot, where the English had several interviews with the
natives without obtaining any information about Franklin and his
people. At last Beechey sent forward one of the ship's boats, under
command of Lieutenant Elson, to seek the intrepid explorer. Elson was,
however, unable to pass Point Barrow (N. lat. 71 degrees 23 minutes)
and was compelled to return to the -Blossom-, which in her turn was
driven back to the entrance of the strait by the ice on the 13th
October, the weather being clear and the frost of extreme severity.
In order to turn to account the winter season, Beechey visited San
Francisco and cast anchor yet again off Honolulu in the Sandwich
Islands. Thanks to the liberal and enlightened policy of the
government, this archipelago was now rapidly growing in prosperity. The
number of houses had increased, the town was gradually acquiring a
European appearance, the harbour was frequented by numerous English and
American vessels, and a national navy numbering five brigs and eight
schooners had sprung into being. Agriculture was in a flourishing
condition; coffee, tea, spices, were cultivated in extensive
plantations, and efforts were being made to utilize the luxuriant
sugar-cane forests native to the archipelago.
After a stay in April at the mouth of the Canton River, the explorers
surveyed the Liu-Kiu archipelago, a chain of islands connecting Japan
with Formosa, and the Bonin-Sima group, districts in which no animals
were seen but big green turtles.
This exploration over, the -Blossom- resumed her northerly course, but
the atmospheric conditions were less favourable than before, and it was
impossible this time to penetrate further than N. lat. 70 degrees 40
minutes. Beechey left provisions, clothes, and instructions on the
coast in this neighbourhood in case Parry or Franklin should get as
far. The explorer then cruised about until the 6th October, when he
decided with the greatest regret to return to England. He touched at
Monterey, San Francisco, San-Blas, and Valparaiso, doubled Cape Horn,
cast anchor at Rio de Janeiro, and finally arrived off Spithead on the
21st October.
[Illustration: A Morai at Kayakakoua. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
We must now give an account of the expedition of the Russian Captain
Lütke, which was fruitful of most important results. The explorer's own
relation of his adventures is written in a most amusing and spirited
style, and from it we shall therefore quote largely.
The -Seniavine- and the -Möller- were two transport ships built in
Russia, both of which were good sea-going boats. The latter, however,
was a very slow sailer, which unfortunately kept the two vessels apart
for the greater part of the voyage. Lütke commanded the -Seniavine-,
and Stanioukowitch the -Möller-.
The two vessels set sail from Cronstadt on the 1st September, 1828, and
touched at Copenhagen and Plymouth, where scientific instruments were
purchased. Hardly had they left the Channel before they were separated.
The -Seniavine-, whose movements we shall most particularly follow,
touched at Teneriffe, where Lütke hoped to meet his consort.
From the 4th to the 8th November, Teneriffe had been devastated by a
terrific storm such as had not been seen since the Conquest. Three
vessels had perished in the very roadstead of Santa Cruz, and two
others thrown upon the coast had gone to pieces. Torrents swollen by a
tremendous downpour had destroyed gardens, walls, and buildings, laid
waste plantations, all but demolished one fort, swept down a number of
houses in the town, and rendered several streets impassable. Three or
four hundred persons had met their deaths in this convulsion of nature,
and the damage done was estimated at several millions of piastres.
In January the two vessels met again at Rio de Janeiro, and kept
together as far as Cape Horn, where they encountered the usual storms
and fogs, and were again separated. The -Seniavine- then made for
Conception.
"On the 15th May," says Lütke, "we were not more than eight miles from
the nearest coast, but a dense fog hid it from us. In the night this
fog lifted, and at daybreak a scene of indescribable grandeur and
magnificence met our eyes. The serrated chain of the Andes, with its
pointed peaks, stood out against an azure blue sky lit up by the first
rays of the morning sun. I will not add to the number of those who have
exhausted themselves in vain efforts to transmit to others their own
sensations at the first sight of such scenes. They are as indescribable
as the majesty of the scene itself. The variety of the colours, the
light, which as the sun rose gradually spread over the sky, and the
clouds were alike of inimitable beauty. To our great regret this
spectacle, like everything most sublime in nature, did not last long.
As the atmosphere became flooded with light the huge masses of clouds
seemed with one accord to plunge into the deep, and the sun, appearing
above the horizon, removed every trace of them."
Lütke's opinion of Conception does not agree with that of some of his
predecessors. He had not yet forgotten the exuberant richness of the
vegetation of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro, so that he found this new
coast poor. As far as he could judge, during a very short stay, the
inhabitants were more affable and civilized than the people of the same
class in many other countries.
When he reached Valparaiso, Lütke met the -Möller- setting sail for
Kamtchatka. The crews bid each other good-bye, and thenceforth the two
vessels took different directions.
The first excursion of the officers and naturalists of Lütke's party
was to the celebrated "quebradas."
"These," says the explorer, "are ravines in the mountains, crowded so
to speak with the little huts containing the greater part of the people
of Valparaiso. The most densely populated of these 'quebradas' is that
rising at the south-west corner of the town. The granite, which is
there laid bare, serves as a strong foundation for the buildings, and
protects them from the destructive effects of earthquakes.
Communication between the town and the different houses is carried on
by means of narrow paths without supports or steps, which are carried
along the slopes of the rocks, and on which the children play and run
about like chamois. The few houses here belong to foreigners. Little
paths lead up to them, and some have steps, which the Chilians look
upon as a superfluous and altogether useless luxury. A staircase of
tiled or palm-branch roofs below and above an amphitheatre of gates and
gardens present a curious spectacle. At first I kept up with the
naturalists, but they presently brought me to a place where I could not
advance or retire a step, which decided me to return with one of my
officers, and to leave them there with a hearty wish that they might
bring their heads back safely to our lodgings. As for myself I expected
to lose mine a thousand times before I got down again."
On their return from an arduous excursion, a few leagues from
Valparaiso, the marines were astonished at being arrested as they rode
into the town, by a patrol, who in spite of their remonstrances
compelled them to dismount.
"It was Holy Thursday," says Lütke, "and from that day to Holy Saturday
no one is here permitted under pain of a severe penalty either to ride,
sing, dance, play on any instrument, or wear a hat. All business, work,
and amusement are strictly forbidden during that time. The hill in the
centre of the town with the theatre upon it is converted for the time
being into a Golgotha. In the centre of a railed-in space rises a
crucifix with numerous tapers and flowers about it and female figures
kneeling on either side representing the witnesses of the Passion of
our Lord. Pious souls come here to obtain absolution from their sins by
loud prayers. I saw none but female penitents, not a single man was
there amongst them. Most of them were doubtless very certain of
obtaining the divine favour, for they came up playing and laughing,
only assuming a contrite air when close to the object of their
devotion, before which they knelt for a few minutes, resuming their
pranks and laughter again directly they turned away."
The intolerance and superstition met with by the visitors at every turn
made the explorer reflect deeply. He regretted seeing so much force and
so many resources which might have promoted the intellectual progress
and material prosperity of the country wasted on perpetual revolutions.
To Lütke nothing less resembled a valley of Paradise than Valparaiso
and its environs: rugged mountains, broken by deep -quebradas-, a sandy
plain, in the centre of which rises the town, with the lofty heights of
the Andes in the background, do not, strictly speaking, form an Eden.
The traces of the terrible earthquake of 1823 were not yet entirely
effaced, and here and there large spaces covered with ruins were still
to be seen.
On the 15th April, the -Seniavine- set sail for New Archangel, where
she arrived on the 24th June, after a voyage unmarked by any special
incident. The necessity for repairing the effects of the wear and tear
of a voyage of ten months, and of disembarking the provisions for the
company of which the -Seniavine- was the bearer, detained Captain Lütke
in the Bay of Sitka for five weeks.
This part of the coast of North America presents a wild but picturesque
appearance. Lofty mountains clothed to their very peaks with dense and
gloomy forests form the background of the picture. At the entrance of
the bay rises Mount Edgecumbe, an extinct volcano 2800 feet above the
sea-level. On entering the bay the visitor finds himself in a labyrinth
of islands, behind which rise the fortress, towers, and church of New
Archangel, which consists of but one row of houses with gardens, a
hospital, a timber-yard, and outside the palisades a large village of
Kaloche Indians. At this time the population consisted of a mixture of
Russians, Creoles, and Aleutians, numbering some 800 altogether, of
whom three-eighths were in the service of the company. This population,
however, fluctuates very much according to the season. In the summer
almost every one is away at the chase, and no sooner does autumn bring
the people before they are all off again fishing.
New Archangel does not offer too many attractions in the way of
amusements. Truth to tell, it is one of the dullest places imaginable,
inexpressibly gloomy, where autumn seems to reign all through the year
except for three months, when snow falls continuously. All this,
however, does not of course affect the passing visitor, and for the
resident there is nothing to keep up his spirits but a good stock of
philosophy or a stern determination not to die of hunger. There is a
good deal of remunerative trade with California, the natives, and
foreign vessels.
The chief furs obtained by Aleutians who hunt for the Company are those
of the otter, the beaver, the fox, and the -souslic-. The natives also
hunt the walrus, seal, and whale, not to speak of the herring, the cod,
salmon, turbot, lote, perch, and tsouklis, a shell fish found in Queen
Charlotte's Islands, used by the Company as a medium of exchange with
the Americans.
As for these Americans they seem to be all of one race between the 46th
and 60th degrees of N. lat., such at least is the conclusion to which
we are led by the study of their manners, customs, and languages.
The Kaloches of Sitka claim a man of the name of Elkh as the founder of
their race, favoured by the protection of the raven, first cause of all
things.[4] Strange to say, this bird also plays an important part
amongst the Kadiaks, who are Esquimaux. According to Lütke, the
Kaloches have a tradition of a deluge and some fables which recall
those of the Greek mythology.
[Footnote 4: The raven was regarded by these races with superstitious
dread, as having the power of healing diseases, &c.---Trans.-]
Their religion is nothing more than a kind of Chamanism or belief in
the power of the Chamans or magicians to ward off diseases, &c. They do
not recognize a supreme God, but they believe in evil spirits, and in
sorcerers who foretell the future, heal the sick, and transmit their
office from father to son.
They believe the soul to be immortal, and that the spirits of their
chieftains do not mix with those of the common people. Slaves are
slaves still after death; the far from consolatory nature of this creed
is obvious. The government is patriarchal; the natives are divided into
tribes, the members of which have the figures of animals as signs,
after which they are also sometimes named. We meet for instance with
the wolf, the raven, the bear, the eagle, &c.
The slaves of the Kaloches are prisoners taken in war, and very
miserable is their lot. Their masters hold the power of life and death
over them. In some ceremonies, that on the death of a chief, for
instance, the slaves who are no longer of use are sacrificed, or else
their liberty is given to them.[5]
[Footnote 5: The aim being to give up the slaves as property, it was a
matter of indifference whether they were killed or set at
liberty.---Trans.-]
Suspicious and crafty, cruel and vindictive, the Kaloches are neither
better nor worse than the neighbouring tribes. Hardened to fatigue,
brave but idle, they leave all the housework to their wives, of whom
they have many, polygamy being an institution amongst them.
On leaving Sitka, Lütke made for Ounalashka. Ilioluk is the chief
trading establishment on that island, but it only contains some twelve
Russians and ten Aleutians of both sexes.
This island has a good many productions which tend to make life pass
pleasantly. It is rich in good pastures, and cattle-breeding is largely
carried on, but it is almost entirely wanting in timber, the
inhabitants being obliged to pick up the -débris- flung up by the sea,
which sometimes includes whole trunks of cypress, camphor-trees, and a
kind of wood which smells like roses.
At the time of Lütke's visit the people of the Fox Islands had adopted
to a great extent Russian manners and costumes. They were all
Christians. The Aleutians are a hardy, kind-hearted, agile race, almost
living on the sea.
Since 1826 several eruptions of lava have caused terrible devastation
in these islands. In May, 1827, the Shishaldin volcano opened a new
crater, and vomited forth flames.
Lütke's instructions obliged him to explore St. Matthew's Island, which
Cook had called Gore Island. The hydrographical survey was successful
beyond the highest expectations, but the Russians could do nothing
towards learning anything of the natural history of the island, for
they were not allowed to land at all.
In the meantime the winter with its usual storms and fogs was rapidly
drawing on. It was of no use hoping to get to Behring Strait, and Lütke
therefore made for Kamtchatka after touching at Behring Island. He
remained three weeks at Petropaulovsky, which he employed in landing
his cargo and preparing for his winter campaign.
Lütke's instructions were now to spend the winter in the exploration of
the Caroline Islands. He decided to go first to Ualan Island, which had
been discovered by the French navigator Duperrey. Here a safe harbour
enabled him to make some experiments with the pendulum.
On his way Lütke sought in vain for Colonnas Island in N. lat. 26
degrees 9 minutes, W. long. 128 degrees. He was equally unsuccessful in
his search for Dexter and St. Bartholomew Islands, though he identified
the Brown coral group discovered by Butler in 1794 and arrived safely
off Ualan on the 4th December.
From the first the relations between the natives of this island and the
Russians were extremely satisfactory. Many of the former came on board,
and showed so much confidence in their visitors as to remain all night,
though the vessel was still in motion.
It was only with great difficulty that the -Seniavine- entered Coquille
harbour. Following the example of Duperrey, who had set up his
observatory on the islet of Matanial, Lütke landed there and took his
observations, whilst his people traded with the natives, who were,
throughout his stay, peaceful, friendly, and civil. To check their
thieving propensities, however, a chief was kept as a hostage for a
couple of days, and one canoe was burnt, these new measures being
completely successful.
"We are glad to be able to declare in the face of the world," says
Lütke, "that our stay of three weeks at Ualan cost not a drop of human
blood, but that we were able to leave these friendly islanders without
enlightening them further on the use of our fire-arms, which they
looked upon as suitable only for the killing of birds. I don't think
there is another instance of the kind in the records of any previous
voyages in the South Seas."
[Illustration: Native of Ualan. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
After leaving Ualan, Lütke had a vain search for the Musgrave Islands,
marked on Kruzenstern's map, and soon discovered a large island,
surrounded by a coral reef, which had escaped the notice of Duperrey,
and is known as Puinipet, or Pornabi. Some very large and fine canoes,
each manned by fourteen men, and some smaller ones, worked by two
natives only, soon surrounded the vessel. Their inmates, with fierce
faces and blood-shot eyes, were noisy and blustering, and did a good
deal of shouting, gesticulating, and dancing before they could make up
their minds to trust themselves on board the -Seniavine-.
It would have been impossible to land, except by force, as the native
canoes completely surrounded the vessel, and when an attempt at
disembarkation was made, the savages surrounded the ship's boat, only
retiring before the warlike attitude of the sailors and a volley from
the guns of the -Seniavine-.
Lütke had not time to examine thoroughly his discovery, to which he
gave the name of the Seniavine Archipelago. The information he
collected on the people of the Puinipet Islands is, therefore, not very
trustworthy. According to him they do not belong to the same race as
those of Ualan, but resemble rather the Papuans, the nearest of whom
are those of New Ireland, seven hundred miles away.
After another vain search, this time for Saint Augustine's Island, he
sighted the Cora of Los Vaherites, also called Seven, or Raven Island,
discovered in 1773 by the Spaniard Felipe Tompson.
The navigator next saw the Mortlock Archipelago, the old Lugunor group,
known to Torrés as the Lugullos, the people of which resemble those of
Ualan. He landed on the principal of these islands, which he found to
be one huge garden of cocoa palms and breadfruit-trees.
The natives enjoy a centre degree of civilization. They weave and dye
the fibres of the banana and cocoa-nut palms, as do those of Ualan and
Puinipet. Their fishing-tackle does credit to their inventive
faculties, especially a sort of case constructed of small sticks and
split bamboo-canes, which the fish cannot get out of when once in. They
also use nets of the shape of large wallets, lines, and harpoons.
Their canoes, in which they spend more than half their lives, are
wonderfully adapted to their requirements. The large ones, which are a
very great trouble to build, and which are kept in sheds constructed
specially for them, are twenty-six feet long, two and a half wide, and
four deep. They are furnished with gimbals, the cross-pieces being
connected by a rafter. On the other side there is a small platform,
four feet square, and furnished with a roof, under which they are
accustomed to keep their provisions. These pirogues have a triangular
sail, which is made of matting woven from bandanus leaves, and is
attached to two yards. In tacking about they drop the sail, and turn
the mast towards the other end of the canoe, to which, at the same
time, they have passed the fastening of the sail, so that the pirogue
moves forward by its other extremity.
Lütke next sighted the Namuluk group, the inhabitants of which do not
differ at all from the people of Lugunor, and he proved the identity of
Hogolu Island--already described by Duperrey--with Quirosa. He then
visited the Namnuïto group, the first stratum of a number of islands,
or of one large island which will some day exist in this part of the
world.
Lütke, who was in want of biscuits and other articles, which he hoped
to obtain at Guam, or from vessels at anchor in that port, now set sail
for the Marianne Islands, where he counted upon being able to repeat
some new experiments with the pendulum, in which Freycinet had found an
important anomaly of gravitation.[6]
[Footnote 6: "From numerous experiments," says Freycinet, "with the
pendulum, collected at our observatory at Agagna, in lat. 13 degrees 27
minutes 511 seconds 5 N. ... at the level of the sea, and with the
thermometer at +20 degrees centig., we were shown that the pendulum
which, in the same circumstances, would make at Paris 86,400
oscillations in 24 mean solar hours would here make 86,295 ^osc .013 in
the same time."---Trans.-]
Great, however, was his surprise when he arrived to find not a sign of
life at Guam. No flags waved above the two ports, the silence of death
reigned everywhere, and but for the presence of a schooner at anchor in
the inner harbour, it might have been a desert island. There was hardly
anybody about on shore, and the few people there were were half savage,
from whom it was all but impossible to obtain the slightest
information. Fortunately, an English deserter came and offered his
services to Lütke, who sent him to the governor with a letter, which
elicited a satisfactory reply.
The governor was the same Medinella whose hospitality had been lauded
by Kotzebue and Freycinet. There was, therefore, no difficulty in
obtaining permission to set up an observatory, and to take to it the
necessary provisions. The stay at Guam was, however, saddened by an
accident to Lütke, who wounded himself severely in the thumb with his
own gun when hunting.
The repairing and refitting of the -Seniavine-, with the taking in of
wood and water, delayed the explorer at Guam until the 19th March.
During this time Lütke was able to verify the information collected ten
years ago by Freycinet in his stay of two months in the Governor's own
house. Things had not changed at all since the French traveller's
visit.
As it was not yet time to go north, Lütke made for the Caroline
Islands, -viâ- the Swedes Islands. The inhabitants seemed to him to be
better made than their neighbours on the west, from whom, however, they
differ in no other particulars. The Faraulep, Ulie, Ifuluk, and Euripeg
Islands were successively examined, and on the 27th April the explorer
started for the Bonin Islands, where he learnt that his exploration of
that group had been anticipated by Beechey. He, therefore, took no
hydrographical surveys. Two of the crew of a whaling-vessel, which had
been shipwrecked on the coast, were still living at Bonin Sima.
Since the rise of the great fisheries, this Archipelago has been
frequented by numerous whalemen, who here find a safe port at all
seasons, plenty of wood and water, turtles for six months of the year,
fish, and immense quantities of anti-scorbutic plants, including the
delicious savoy cabbage.
"The majestic height and the vigour of the trees," says Lütke, "the
productions of the tropical and temperate zones, alternating with each
other, bear witness at once to the fertility of the soil and the
salubrity of the climate. Most of our vegetables and pot-herbs,
perhaps, indeed, all of them would certainly flourish well, as would
also wheat, rice, and maize, nor could a better climate be desired for
the cultivation of the vine. Domestic animals of every kind and bees
would multiply rapidly. In a word, a small and industrious colony would
shortly convert this little group into a fertile and flourishing
settlement."
On the 9th June, after a week's delay for want of wind, the -Seniavine-
entered Petropaulovsky, where it was retained taking in provisions
until the 26th. A whole series of surveys were taken during this
interval, of the coasts of Kamtchatka, and of the Kodiak and Tchouktchi
districts, interrupted, however, by visits to Karaghinsk Island, the
bay of St. Lawrence, and the gulf of Santa Cruz.
During one of these visits, the captain met with a strange adventure.
He had been for several days on a friendly footing with the
Tchouktchis, whose knowledge of the people and customs of Russia he
endeavoured to increase.
"These natives," he says, "were friendly and polite, and endeavoured to
pay back our jokes and tricks in our own coin. I softly patted the
cheek of a sturdy Tchouktchi as a sign of kindly feeling, and suddenly
received in return a box on the ear which knocked me down. Recovered
from my astonishment, there I saw my Tchouktchi with a laughing face,
looking like a man who has just given proof of his politeness and tact.
He too had meant to give me merely a gentle tap, but it was with a hand
only accustomed to deal with reindeer."
The travellers were also witnesses of some proofs of the skill of a
Tchouktchi conjurer, or chaman, who went behind a curtain, from which
his audience soon heard a voice like the howl of a wild beast,
accompanied by blows on a tambourine with a whale-bone. The curtain
then rose, revealing the sorcerer balancing himself, and accompanying
his own voice with blows on his drum, which he held close to his ear.
Presently he flung off his jacket, leaving himself naked to the waist,
took a polished stone, which he gave to Lütke to hold, took it away
again, and as he passed one hand over the other the stone disappeared.
Then showing a tumour on his shoulder, he pretended that the stone was
in it; turned over the tumour, extracted the stone from it, and
prophesied a favourable issue of the journey of the Russians.
The conjuror was congratulated on his skill, and a knife was given to
him as a token of gratitude. Taking this knife in his hand, he put out
his tongue, and began to cut it. His mouth became full of blood, and he
finally cut a piece of his tongue off, and held the piece out in his
hand. Here the curtain fell, probably because the skill of the
professor of legerdemain could go no further.
The people inhabiting the north-east corner of Asia are known under the
general name of Tchouktchis. This includes two races, one nomad, like
the Samoyedes, called the Reindeer Tchouktchis; the other, living in
fixed habitations, called the sedentary Tchouktchis. The mode of life,
the physiognomy, and the very language of these two races differ. The
idiom spoken by the sedentary Tchouktchis has great affinity with that
of the Esquimaux, whom they also resemble in their mode of building
their huts and leather boats, and in the instruments they use.
[Illustration: Sedentary Tchouktchis.]
Lütke did not see many Reindeer Tchouktchis, so that he could add
nothing to the information obtained by his predecessors. He was of
opinion, however, that they had been painted in unfairly gloomy
colours, and that their turbulence and wildness had been grossly
exaggerated.
The sedentary Tchouktchis, generally called Namollos, spend the winter
in sheds, and the summer in huts covered with skins. The latter usually
each serve for several families.
"The sons and their wives, the daughters and their husbands," says the
narrative, "live together with their parents, and -vice versâ-. Each
family occupies one division of the back part of the hut, curtained off
from the others. The curtains are made of reindeer-skins, sewn into the
shape of a bell. They are fastened to the beams of the ceiling, and
reach to the ground. With the aid of the grease they burn in cold
weather, two, three, and sometimes more persons so warm the air with
their breath in these hermetically sealed positions that all clothing
is superfluous, even with the severest frost, but only Tchouktchi lungs
are fitted to respire in such an atmosphere. In the outer part of the
hut cooking-utensils, pottery, baskets, seal-skin trunks, &c., are
kept. Here too is the hearth, if we can so call the spot where burn a
few sticks of brushwood, painfully collected in the marsh, or when they
are not to be obtained, whale-bones floating in grease. Round about the
hut on wooden dryers, black and disgusting looking pieces of seal's
flesh are exposed to view." These people lead a miserable life. They
feed upon the half-raw flesh of seals and walruses hunted by
themselves, or on that of whales flung up by the waves on the beach.
The dog is the only domestic animal they possess, and they treat it
badly enough, although the poor creatures are very affectionate and
render them great services, now towing along their canoes, now dragging
their sledges over the snow.
After a second stay of five weeks at Petropaulovski, the -Seniavine-
left Kamtchatka, on the 10th of November, on its way back to Europe.
Before reaching Manilla, Lütke made a cruise in the northern part of
the Caroline Archipelago, which he had not had time to visit during the
preceding winter. He saw in succession the islands of Marileu, Falulu,
Faïu, Namuniuto, Magur, Faraulep, Eap, Mogmog, and found at Manilla the
sloop, the -Möller- which was waiting his arrival.
The Caroline Archipelago embraces an immense space, and the Marianne
Islands, as well as the Radak group, might fitly be included in it, as
containing a population perfectly identical in race. For a long time
the old geographers had had for their guidance only the charts of
missionaries who, lacking alike the education and the appliances
necessary to estimate accurately the size, position, and relative
distance of all these archipelagoes, had attached notable importance to
them, and often fixed at a considerable number of degrees the extent of
a group which covered only a few miles.
Thus navigators accepted their guidance with wise caution. Freycinet
was the first to infuse a little order into this chaos, and, thanks to
his meeting with Kadu and Don Louis Torrès, he was able to identify
later with earlier discoveries. Lütke did his part--and that not a
small part--in the settling of an accurate and scientific chart of an
archipelago which had long been the terror of navigators.
The learned Russian explorer is not of the same opinion as Lesson, one
of his predecessors, who connected all the inhabitants of the Caroline
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