craft cruising about, a ceaseless roar of cannon from the forts and
men-of-war, exchanging signals on the occasion of some anniversary or
the celebration of some festival of the church, whilst visits were
constantly being exchanged between the officers of the various foreign
vessels and the diplomatic agents of foreign powers at the court of
Rio."
The division set sail again on the 11th April, and arrived at Brest on
the 24th June, 1826, without having put into port since it left Rio
Janeiro. We must remember that if Bougainville did not make any
discoveries on this voyage, he had no formal instructions to do so, his
mission being merely to unfurl the flag of France where it had as yet
been rarely seen. None the less do we owe to this general officer some
very interesting, and in some cases new information on the countries
visited by him. Some of the surveys made by his expedition may be of
service to navigators, and it must be owned that the hydrographical
researches which alone could be undertaken in the absence of scientific
men were carefully made, and resulted in the obtaining of numerous and
accurate data. We can but sympathize with the commander of the
-Thetis-, in his expression of regret, in the preface to his journal,
that neither the Government nor the -Académie des Sciences- had seen
fit to turn his expedition to account to obtain new results
supplementary of the rich harvest gleaned by his predecessors.
The expedition next sent out under the command of Captain Dumont
d'Urville was merely intended by the minister to supplement and
consolidate the mass of scientific data collected by Captain Duperrey
in his voyage from 1822 to 1824. As second in command to Duperrey, and
the originator and organizer of the new exploring expedition, D'Urville
had the very first claim to be appointed to its command. The portions
of Oceania he proposed to visit were New Zealand, the Fiji Islands, the
Loyalty Islands, New Britain, and New Guinea, all of which he
considered urgently to demand the consideration alike of the geographer
and the traveller. What he effected in this direction we shall
ascertain by following him step by step. An interest of another
character also attaches to this trip, but it will be well to quote on
this point the instructions given to the navigator.
"An American captain," writes the Minister of Marine, "said that he saw
in the hands of the natives of an isle situated between New Caledonia
and the Louisiade Archipelago a cross of St. Louis and some medals,
which he imagined to be relics of the wrecked vessel of the celebrated
La Pérouse, whose loss is so deeply and justly regretted. This is, of
course, but a feeble reason for hoping that some of the victims of the
disaster still survive; but you, sir, will give great satisfaction to
his Majesty, if you are the means of restoring any one of the poor
shipwrecked mariners to their native land after so many years of misery
and exile."
The aims of the expedition were therefore manifold, and by the greatest
chance it was able to achieve them nearly all. D'Urville received his
appointment in December, 1825, and was permitted himself to choose all
who were to accompany him. He named as second in command Lieutenant
Jacquinot, and as scientific colloborateurs Messrs. Quoy and Gaimard,
who had been on board the -Uranie-, and as surgeon Primevère Lesson.
The -Coquille-, the excellent qualities of which were well known to
D'Urville, was the vessel selected; and the commander having named her
the -Astrolabe- in memory of La Pérouse, embarked in her a crew of
twenty-four men. Anchor was weighed on the 25th April, and the
mountains of Toulon with the coast of France were soon out of sight.
After touching at Gibraltar, the -Astrolabe- stopped at Teneriffe to
take in fresh provisions before crossing the Atlantic, and D'Urville
took advantage of this delay to ascend the peak, accompanied by Messrs.
Quoy, Gaimard, and several officers, a bad road, very arduous for
pedestrians, leading the first part of the way over fields of scoria,
though as Laguna is approached the scenery improves. This town, of a
considerable size, contains but a small, indolent, and miserable
population.
Between Matunza and Orotara the vegetation is magnificent, and the
luxuriant foliage of the vine enhances the beauty of the view. Orotara
is a small seaboard town, with a port affording but little shelter. It
is well-built and laid out, and would be comfortable enough if the
streets were not so steep as to make traffic all but impossible. After
three-quarters of an hour's climb through well-cultivated fields, the
Frenchmen reached the chestnut-tree region, beyond which begin the
clouds, taking the form of a thick moist fog, very disagreeable to the
traveller. Further on comes the furze region, beyond which the
atmosphere again becomes clear, vegetation disappears, the ground
becomes poorer and more barren. Here are met with decomposed lava,
scoria, and pumice-stones in great abundance, whilst below stretches
away the boundless sea of clouds.
Thus far hidden by clouds or by the lofty mountains surrounding it, the
peak at last stands forth distinctly, the incline becomes less steep,
and those vast plains of intensely melancholy appearance, called
Cañadas by the Spanish, on account of their bareness, are crossed. A
halt is made for lunch at the Pine grotto before climbing the huge
blocks of basalt ranged in a circle about the crater, now filled in
with ashes from the peak, and forming its enceinte. The peak itself is
next attached, the ascent of which is broken one-third of the way up by
a sort of esplanade called the Estancia de los Ingleses. Here our
travellers passed the night, not perhaps quite so comfortably as they
would have done in their berths, but without suffering too much from
the feeling of suffocation experienced by other explorers. The fleas,
however, were very troublesome, and their unremitting attacks kept the
commander awake all night.
At four a.m. the ascent was resumed, and a second esplanade, called the
Alta Vista, was soon reached, beyond which all trace of a path
disappears, the rest of the ascent being over rough lava as far as the
Chahorra Cone, with here and there, in the shade, patches of unmelted
snow. The peak itself is very steep, and its ascent is rendered yet
more arduous by the pumice-stone which rolls away beneath the feet.
"At thirty-five minutes past six," says M. Dumont d'Urville, "we
arrived at the summit of the Chahorra, which is evidently a
half-extinct crater. Its sides are thin and sloping, it is from sixty
to eighty feet deep, and the whole surface is strewn with fragments of
obsidian, pumice-stones, and lava. Sulphureous vapour, forming a kind
of crown of smoke, is emitted from it, whilst the atmosphere at the
bottom is perfectly cool. At the summit of the peak the thermometer
marked 11 degrees, but in my opinion it was affected by the presence of
the fumerolles, for when at the bottom of the crater it fell rapidly
from 19 degrees in the sun to 9 degrees 5' in the shade."
The descent was accomplished without accident by another route,
enabling our travellers to examine the Cueva de la Nieve, and to visit
the forest of Aqua Garcia, watered by a limpid stream, and in which
D'Urville made a rich collection of botanical specimens.
In Major Megliorini's rooms at Santa Cruz the commander was shown,
together with a number of weapons, shells, animals, fish, &c., a
complete mummy of a Guanche, said to be that of a woman. The corpse was
sewn up in skins, and seemed to be that of a woman five feet four high,
with regular features and large hands. The sepulchral caves of the
Guanches also contained earthenware, wooden vases, triangular seals of
baked clay, and a great number of small discs of the same material,
strung together like chaplets, which may have been used by this extinct
race for the same purposes as the "quipos" of the Peruvians.
On the 21st June the -Astrolabe- once more set sail and touched at La
Praya, and at the Cape Verd Islands, where D'Urville had hoped to meet
Captain King, who would have been able to give him some valuable hints
on the navigation of the coast of New Guinea. King, however, had left
La Praya thirty-six hours previously, and the -Astrolabe- therefore
resumed her voyage the next day, i.e. on the 30th June.
On the last day of July the rocks of Martin-Vaz and Trinity Island were
sighted, and the latter appearing perfectly barren, a little dried-up
grass and a few groups of stunted trees, dotted about amongst the
rocks, being the only signs of vegetation.
D'Urville had been very anxious to make some botanical researches on
this desert island, but the surf was so rough that he was afraid to
risk a boat in it.
On the 4th August the -Astrolabe- sailed over the spot laid down as
"Saxembourg" Island, which ought to be finally erased from French as it
has been from English charts; and after a succession of squalls, which
tried her sorely, she arrived off St. Paul and Amsterdam Islands,
finally anchoring on the 7th October in King George's Sound, on the
coast of Australia. In spite of the roughness of the sea, and constant
bad weather throughout his voyage of 108 days, D'Urville had carried on
all his usual observations on the height of the waves, which he
estimated at 80 and occasionally as much as 100 feet, off Needle Bank;
the temperature of the sea at various depths, &c.
Captain Jacquinot having found a capital supply of fresh water on the
right bank of Princess Royal Harbour, and at a little distance a site
suitable for the erection of an observatory, the tents were soon
pitched by the sailors, and several officers made a complete tour of
the bay, whilst others opened relations with the aborigines, one of
whom was induced to go on board, though it was only with the greatest
difficulty that he was persuaded to throw away his -Banksia-, a cone
used to retain heat, and to keep the stomach and the front part of the
body warm. He remained quietly enough on board for two days, however,
eating and drinking in front of the kitchen fire. In the meantime his
fellow-countrymen on land were peaceable and well-disposed, even
bringing three of their children into the camp.
During this halt a boat arrived manned by eight Englishmen, who asked
to be taken on board as passengers, and told such a very improbable
story of having been deserted by their captain, that D'Urville
suspected them of being escaped convicts; a suspicion which became a
conviction, when he saw the wry faces they made at his proposal to send
them back to Port Jackson. The next day, however, one took a berth as
sailor, and two were received as passengers; whilst the other five
decided to remain on land and drag out a miserable existence amongst
the natives.
All this time hydrographical and astronomical observations were being
made, and the hunters and naturalists were trying to obtain specimens
of new varieties of fauna and flora. The delays extending to October
24th enabled the explorers to regain their strength, after their trying
voyage, to make the necessary repairs, take in wood and water, draw up
a map of the whole neighbourhood, and to collect numerous botanical and
zoological specimens. His observations of various kinds made D'Urville
wonder that the English had not yet founded a colony on King George's
Sound, admirably situated as it is, not only for vessels coming direct
from Europe, but for those trading between the Cape and China, or bound
for the Sunda Islands, and delayed by the monsoons. The coast was
explored as far as West Port, preferred by D'Urville to Port Dalrymple,
the latter being a harbour always difficult and often dangerous either
to enter or to leave. West Port moreover, was as yet only known from
the reports of Baudin and Flinders, and it was therefore better worth
exploring than a more frequented district. The observations made in
King George's Sound were therefore repeated at West Port, resulting in
the following conclusions:--
"It affords," says D'Urville, "an anchorage alike easy to reach and to
leave, the bottom is firm, and wood is abundant and easily procurable.
In a word, when a good supply of fresh water is found, and that will
probably be soon, West Port will rise to a position of great importance
in a channel such as Bass's Straits, when the winds often blow strongly
from one quarter for several days together, the currents at the same
time rendering navigation difficult."
From November 19th to December 2nd the -Astrolabe- cruised along the
coast, touching only at Jervis Bay, remarkable for its magnificent
eucalyptus forests.
[Illustration: Eucalyptus forest of Jervis Bay.]
The reception given to the French at Port Jackson, by Governor Darling
and the colonial authorities, was none the less cordial for the fact
that the visits made by D'Urville to various parts of New Holland had
greatly amazed the English Government.
During the last three years Port Jackson had increased greatly in size
and improved in appearance; though the population of the whole colony
only amounted to 50,000, and that in spite of the constant foundation
of new English settlements. The commander took advantage of his stay in
Sydney to forward his despatches to France, together with several cases
of natural history specimens. This done and a fresh stock of provisions
having been laid in, he resumed his voyage.
[Illustration: New Guinea hut on piles. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
It would be useless to linger with Dumont d'Urville at New South Wales,
to the history of which, and its condition in 1826, he devotes a whole
volume of his narrative. We have already given a detailed account of
it, and it will be better to leave Sydney with our traveller, on the
19th December, and follow him to Tasman Bay, through calms, head-winds,
currents, and tempests, which prevented his reaching New Zealand before
the 14th January, 1827. Tasman Bay, first seen by Cook on his second
voyage, had never yet been explored by any expedition, and on the
arrival of the -Astrolabe- a number of canoes, containing some score of
natives, most of them chiefs, approached. These natives were not afraid
to climb on board, some remaining several days, whilst later arrivals
drew up within reach, and a brisk trade was opened. Meanwhile several
officers climbed through the thick furze clothing the hills overlooking
the bay, and the following is D'Urville's verdict on the desolate scene
which met their view.
"Not a bird, not an insect, not even a reptile to be seen, the solemn,
melancholy silence is unbroken by the voice of any living creature."
From the summit of these hills the commander saw New Bay, that known as
Admiralty, which communicates by a current with that in which the
-Astrolabe- was anchored; and he was anxious to explore it, as it
seemed safer than that of Tasman, but the currents several times
brought his vessel to the very verge of destruction; and had the
-Astrolabe- been driven upon the rocky coast, the whole crew would have
perished, and not so much as a trace of the wreck would have been left.
At last, however, D'Urville succeeded in clearing the passage with no
further loss than that of a few bits of the ship's keel.
"To celebrate," says the narrative, "the memory of the passage of the
-Astrolabe-, I conferred upon this dangerous strait the name of the
'Passe des Français'" (French Pass), "but, unless in a case of great
necessity, I should not advise any one else to attempt it. We could now
look calmly at the beautiful basin in which we found ourselves; and
which certainly deserves all the praise given to it by Cook. I would
specially recommend a fine little harbour, some miles to the south of
the place, where the captain cast anchor. Our navigation of the 'Passe
des Français' had definitively settled the insular character of the
whole of the district terminating in the 'Cape Stephens' of Cook. It is
divided from the mainland of Te-Wahi-Punamub[1] by the Current Basin.
The comparison of our chart with that of the strait as laid down by
Cook will suffice to show how much he left to be done."
[Footnote 1: Now "South Island."---Trans.-]
The -Astrolabe- soon entered Cook's Strait, and sailing outside Queen
Charlotte's Bay, doubled Cape Palliser, a headland formed of some low
hills. D'Urville was greatly surprised to find that a good many
inaccuracies had crept into the work of the great English navigator,
and in that part of the account of his voyage which relates to
hydrography, he quotes instances of errors of a fourth, or even third
of a degree.
The commander then resolved to make a survey of the eastern side of the
northern island Ika-Na-Mawi. On this island pigs were to be found, but
no "-pounamon-" the green jade which the New Zealanders use in the
manufacture of their most valuable tools; strange to say, however, jade
is to be found on the southern island, but there are no pigs.
Two natives of the island, who had expressed a wish to remain on board
the corvette, became quite low-spirited as they watched the coast of
the district where they lived disappear below the horizon. They then
began to repent, but too late, the intrepidity which had prompted them
to leave their native shores; for intrepid they justly deserve to be
called, seeing that again and again they asked the French sailors if
they were not to be eaten, and it took several days of kind treatment
to dispel this fear from their minds.
[Illustration: New Zealanders. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
D'Urville continued to sail northward up the coast until the capes,
named by Cook Turn-again and Kidnappers, had been doubled, and Sterile
Island with its "Ipah" came in sight. In the Bay of Tolaga, as Cook
called it, the natives brought alongside the corvette pigs and
potatoes, which they readily exchanged for articles of little value. On
other canoes approaching, the New Zealanders who were on board the
vessel urged the commander to fire upon and kill their
fellow-countrymen in the boats; but as soon as the latter climbed up to
the deck, the first arrivals advanced to greet them with earnest
assurances of friendship. Conduct so strangely inconsistent is the
outcome of the compound of hatred and jealousy mutually entertained for
each other by these tribes. "They all desire to appropriate to
themselves exclusively whatever advantage may be obtained from the
visits of foreigners, and they are distressed at the prospect of their
neighbours getting any share." Proof was soon afforded that this
explanation is the right key to their behaviour.
Upon the -Astrolabe- were several New Zealanders, but among them was a
certain "-Shaki-" who was recognized as a chief by his tall stature,
his elaborate tattooing, and the respectful manner in which he was
addressed by his fellow-islanders. Seeing a canoe manned by not more
than seven or eight men approaching the corvette, this "-Shaki-" and
the rest came to entreat D'Urville most earnestly to kill the new
arrivals, going so far as to ask for muskets that they might themselves
fire upon them. However, no sooner had the last comers arrived on board
than all those who were there already overwhelmed them with courtesies,
while the "-Shaki-" himself, although he had been one of the most
sanguinary, completely changed his tone and made them a present of some
axes he had just obtained. After the chief men of a warlike and fierce
appearance, with faces tattooed all over, had been a few minutes on
board, D'Urville was preparing to ask them some questions, with the aid
of a vocabulary published by the missionaries, when all at once they
turned away from him, leaped into their canoes and pushed out into the
open sea. This sudden move was brought about by their countrymen, who,
for the purpose of getting rid of them, slily hinted that their lives
were in danger, as the Frenchmen had formed a plot to kill them.
It was in the Bay of Tolaga, the right name of which is Houa-Houa, that
D'Urville found the first opportunity of gaining some information about
the "kiwi," by means of a mat decorated with the feathers of that bird,
such mats being articles of luxury among these islanders. The "kiwi" is
about the size of a small turkey, and, like the ostrich, has not the
power of flying. It is hunted at night by the light of torches and with
the assistance of dogs. It is this bird which is also known under the
name of the "apteryx." What the natives told D'Urville about it was in
the main accurate. The apteryx, with the tail of a fowl and a plumage
of a reddish-brown, has an affinity to the ostrich; it inhabits damp
and gloomy woods, and never comes out even in search of food except in
the evening. The incessant hunting of the natives has considerably
diminished the numbers of this curious species, and it is now very
rare.
D'Urville made no pause in the hydrographical survey of the northern
island of New Zealand, keeping up daily communication with the natives,
who brought him supplies of pigs and potatoes. According to their own
statements, the tribes were perpetually at war with one another, and
this was the true cause of the decrease in the population of these
islands. Their constant demand was for fire-arms; failing to obtain
these, they were satisfied if they could get powder in exchange for
their own commodities.
On the 10th February, when not far from Cape Runaway, the corvette was
caught in a violent storm, which lasted for thirty-six hours, and she
was more than once on the point of foundering. After this, she made her
way into the Bay of Plenty, at the bottom of which rises Mount
Edgecumbe; then keeping along the coast, the islands of Haute and Major
were sighted; but during this exploration of the bay, the weather was
so severe that the chart of it then laid down cannot be considered very
trustworthy. After leaving this bay, the corvette reached the Bay of
Mercury; surveyed Barrier Island, entered Shouraki or Hauraki Bay,
identified the Hen and Chickens and the Poor Knights Islands, finally
arriving at the Bay of Islands. The native tribes met with by D'Urville
in this part of the island were busy with an expedition against those
of Shouraki and Waikato Bays. For the purpose of exploring the former
bay, which had been imperfectly surveyed by Cook, D'Urville sailed back
to it, and discovered that that part of New Zealand is indented with a
number of harbours and gulfs of great depth, each one being safer, if
possible, than the other. Having been informed that by following the
direction of the Wai Magoia, a place would be reached distant only a
very short journey from the large port of Manukau, he despatched some
of his officers by that route, and they verified the correctness of the
information he had received. This discovery, observes Dumont d'Urville,
may become of great value to future settlements of Shouraki Bay; and
this value will be still farther increased should the new surveys prove
that the port of Manukau is accessible to vessels of a certain size,
for such a settlement would command two seas, one on the east and the
other on the west.
One of the "Rangatiras," as the chiefs of that quarter of the island
are called, Rangui by name, had again and again begged the commander to
give him some lead to make bullets with; a request which was always
refused. Just before setting sail, D'Urville was informed that the
deep-sea lead had been carried off; and he at once reproached Rangui in
severe terms, telling him that such petty larcenies were unworthy of a
man in a respectable position. The chief appeared to be deeply moved by
the reproach, and excused himself by saying that he had no knowledge of
the theft, which must have been committed by some stranger. "A short
time afterwards," the narrative goes on to say, "my attention was drawn
to the side of the ship by the sound of blows given with great force,
and piteous cries proceeding from the canoe of Rangui. There I saw
Rangui and Tawiti striking blow after blow with their paddles upon an
object resembling the figure of a man covered with a cloak. It was easy
to perceive that the two wily chiefs were simply beating one of the
benches of the canoe. After this farce had been played for some little
time, Rangui's paddle broke in his hands. The sham man was made to
appear to fall down, when Rangui, addressing me, said that he had just
killed the thief, and wished to know whether that would satisfy me. I
assured him that it would, laughing to myself at the artifice of these
savages; an artifice, for that matter, such as is often to be met with
among people more advanced in civilization."
D'Urville next surveyed the lovely island of Wai-hiki, and thus
terminated the survey of the Astrolabe Channel and Hauraki Bay. He then
resumed his voyage in a northerly direction towards the Bay of Islands,
sailing as far as Cape Maria Van Diemen, the most northerly point of
New Zealand, where, say the Waïdonas, "the souls of the departed gather
from all parts of Ika-Na-Mawi, to take their final flight to the realms
of light or to those of eternal darkness."
The Bay of Islands, at the time when the -Coquille- put in there, was
alive with a pretty considerable population, with whom the visitors
soon became on friendly terms. Now, however, the animation of former
days had given place to the silence of desolation. The Ipah, or rather
the Pah of Kahou Wera, once the abode of an energetic tribe, was
deserted, war had done its customary destructive work in the place. The
Songhui tribe had stolen the possessions, and dispersed the members of
the tribe of Paroa.
The Bay of Islands was the place chosen for their field of effort by
the English missionaries, who, notwithstanding their devotion to their
work had not made any progress among the natives. The unproductiveness
of their labours was only too apparent.
The survey of the eastern side of New Zealand, a hydrographical work of
the utmost importance, terminated at this point. Since the days of Cook
no exploration of anything like such a vast extent of the coast of this
country had been conducted in so careful a manner, in the face of so
many perils. The sciences of geography and navigation were both
signally benefited by the skilful and detailed work of D'Urville, who
had to give proof of exceptional qualities in the midst of sudden and
terrible dangers. However, on his return to France, no notice was taken
of the hardships he had undergone, or the devotion to duty he had
shown; he was left without recognition, and duties were assigned to
him, the performance of which could bring no distinction, for they
could have been equally well discharged by any ordinary ship's captain.
Leaving New Zealand on the 18th of March, 1827, D'Urville steered for
Tonga Tabou, identified to begin with the islands Curtis, Macaulay, and
Sunday; endeavoured, but without success, to find the island of Vasquez
de Mauzelle, and arrived off Namouka on the 16th of April. Two days
later he made out Eoa; but before reaching Tonga Tabou he encountered a
terrible storm which all but proved fatal to the -Astrolabe-. At Tonga
Tabou he found some Europeans, who had been for many years settled on
the island; from them he received much help in getting to understand
the character of the natives. The government was in the hands of three
chiefs, called -Equis-, who had shared all authority between them since
the banishment of the -Tonï Tonga-, or spiritual chief, who had enjoyed
immense influence. A Wesleyan mission was in existence at Tonga; but it
could be seen at a glance that the Methodist clergy had not succeeded
in acquiring any influence over the natives. Such converts as had been
made were held in general contempt for their apostasy.
When the -Astrolabe- had reached the anchorage, after her fortunate
escape from the perils from contrary winds, currents, and rocks, which
had beset her course, she was at once positively overwhelmed with the
offer of an incredible quantity of stores, fruits, vegetables, fowls,
and pigs, which the natives were ready to dispose of for next to
nothing. For equally low prices D'Urville was able to purchase, for the
museum, specimens of the arms and native productions of the savages.
Amongst them were some clubs, most of them made of casuarina wood,
skilfully carved, or embossed in an artistic manner with
mother-of-pearl or with whalebone. The custom of amputating a joint or
two of the fingers or toes, to propitiate the Deity, was still
observed, in the case of a near relative being dangerously ill.
From the 28th of April the natives had manifested none but the most
friendly feelings; no single disturbance had occurred; but on the 9th
of May, while D'Urville, with almost all his officers, went to pay a
visit to one of the leading chiefs, named Palou, the reception accorded
to them was marked by a most unusual reserve, altogether inconsistent
with the noisy and enthusiastic demonstrations of the preceding days.
The distrust evinced by the islanders aroused that of D'Urville, who,
remembering how few were the men left on board the -Astrolabe-, felt
considerable uneasiness. However, nothing unusual happened during his
absence from the ship. But it was only the cowardice of Palou which had
caused the failure of a conspiracy, aiming at nothing less than the
massacre, at one blow, of the whole of the staff, after which there
would have been no difficulty in prevailing over the crew, who were
already more than half-disposed to adopt the easy mode of life of the
islanders. Such at least was the conclusion the commander came to, and
subsequent events showed that he was right.
These apprehensions determined D'Urville to leave Tonga Tabou as
quickly as possible, and on the 13th every preparation was made to set
sail on the following day. The apprentice Dudemaine was walking about
on the large island, whilst the apprentice Faraquet, with nine men, was
engaged on the small island, Pangaï Modou, in getting fresh water, or
studying the tide, when Tahofa, one of the chiefs, with several other
islanders, then on board the -Astrolabe-, gave a signal. The canoes
pushed off at once and made for the shore. On trying to discover the
cause of this sudden retreat, it was observed that the sailors on the
island Pangaï Modou were being forcibly dragged off by the natives.
D'Urville was about to fire off a cannon, when he decided that it would
be safer to send a boat to shore. This boat took off the two sailors
and the apprentice Dudemaine, but was fired upon when despatched
shortly afterwards to set fire to the huts, and to try to capture some
natives as hostages. One native was killed and several others were
wounded, whilst a corporal of the marines received such severe bayonet
wounds, that he died two hours later.
[Illustration: Attack from the natives of Tonga Tabou.]
D'Urville's anxiety about the fate of his sailors, and of Faraquet, who
was in command of them, knew no bounds. Nothing was left for him to do
but to make an attack upon the sacred village of Mafanga, containing
the tombs of several of the principal families. But on the following
day a crowd of natives so skilfully surrounded the place with
embankments and palisades, that it was impossible to hope to carry it
by an attack. The corvette then drew nearer to the shore, and began to
cannonade the village, without, however, doing any other damage than
killing one of the natives. At length the difficulty of obtaining
provisions, the rain, and the continual alarm in which the firing of
the Frenchmen kept them, induced the islanders to offer terms of peace.
They gave up the sailors, who had all been very well treated, made a
present of pigs and bananas; and on the 24th of May the -Astrolabe-
took her final departure from the Friendly Islands.
It was quite time indeed that this was done, for D'Urville's situation
was untenable, and in a conversation with his boatswain he ascertained
that not more than half a dozen of the sailors could be relied on; all
the others were ready to go over to the side of the savages.
Tonga Tabou is of madreporic formation, with a thick covering of
vegetable soil, favourable to an abundant growth of shrubs and trees.
The cocoa-tree, the stem of which is slenderer than elsewhere, and the
banana-tree here shoot up with wonderful rapidity and vigour. The
aspect of the land is flat and monotonous, so that a journey of one or
two miles will give as fair an impression of the country as a complete
tour of the island. The number of the population who have the true
Polynesian cast of countenance may be put down at about 7000. D'Urville
says "they combine the most opposite qualities. They are generous,
courteous, and hospitable, yet avaricious, insolent, and always
thoroughly insincere. The most profuse demonstration of kindness and
friendship may at any moment be interrupted by an act of outrage or
robbery, should their cupidity or their self-respect be ever so
slightly roused."
In intelligence the natives of Tonga are clearly far superior to those
of Otaheite. The French travellers could not sufficiently admire the
astonishing order in which the plantations of yams and bananas were
kept, the excessive neatness of their dwellings, and the beauty of the
garden-plots. They even knew something of the art of fortification, as
D'Urville ascertained by an inspection of the fortified village of
Hifo, defended with stout palisades, and surrounded by a trench between
fifteen and twenty feet wide, and half filled with water.
On the 25th of May, D'Urville began the exploration of the Viti or Fiji
Archipelago. At the outset he was so fortunate as to fall in with a
native of Tonga who was living on the Fiji Islands for purposes of
trade, and had previously visited Otaheite, New Zealand, and Australia.
This man, as well as a Guam islander, proved most useful to the
commander in furnishing him with the names of more than 200 islands
belonging to this group, and in acquainting him beforehand with their
position, and that of the reefs in their neighbourhood. At the same
time, Gressier, the hydrographer, collected all the materials requisite
for preparing a chart of the Fiji Islands.
At this station a sloop was put under orders to proceed to the island
of Laguemba, where was an anchor which D'Urville would have been well
pleased to obtain, as he had lost two of his own while at Tonga. On
arrival at the island, Lottin, who was in command of the sloop,
observed on the shore none but women and children; armed men, however,
soon came running up, made the women leave the place, and were
preparing to seize the sloop and make the sailors prisoners. Their
intentions were too plain to leave room for any doubt on the subject,
so Lottin at once gave orders to draw up the grapnel, and got away into
the open sea before there was time for an encounter to take place.
During eighteen consecutive days, in the face of bad weather and a
rough sea, the -Astrolabe- cruised through the Fiji Archipelago,
surveyed the islands of Laguemba, Kandabou, Viti-Levou, Oumbenga Vatou
Lele, Ounong Lebou, Malolo, and many others, giving special attention
to the southern islands of the group, which up to that period had
remained almost entirely unknown.
The population of this group, if we accept D'Urville's account, form a
kind of transition between the copper-coloured, or the Polynesian, and
the black or Melanesian races. Their strength and vigour are in
proportion to their tall figures, and they make no secret of their
cannibal propensities.
On the 11th of June the corvette set sail for the harbour of Carteret;
surveyed one by one the islands of Erronan and Annatom, the Loyalty
Islands, of which group D'Urville discovered the Chabrol and Halgan
Islands, the little group of the Beaupie Islands, the Astrolabe reefs,
all the more dangerous as they are thirty miles distant from the
Beaupie Islands, and sixty from New Caledonia. The island of Huon, and
the chain of reefs to the north of New Caledonia, were subsequently
surveyed. From this point D'Urville reached the Louisiade Archipelago
in six days, but the stormy weather there encountered determined him to
abandon the course he had planned out, and not to pass through Torres
Straits. He thought that an early examination of the southern coast of
New Britain, and of the northern coast of New Guinea, would be the most
conducive to the interests of science.
Rossel Island and Cape Deliverance were next sighted; and the vessel
was steered for New Ireland, with a view to obtaining fresh supplies of
wood and water. Arriving there on the 5th of July in such gloomy, rainy
weather, that it was with no small difficulty that the entrance of the
harbour of Carteret, where D'Entrecasteaux made a stay of eight days,
was made out; whilst there the travellers received several visits from
the score of natives, who seem to make up the total population of the
place. They were creatures possessed of scarcely any intelligence, and
quite destitute of curiosity about objects that they had not seen
before. Neither did their appearance lead to the slightest
prepossession in their favour. They wore no vestige of clothing; their
skin was black and their hair woolly; and the partition of the nostrils
had a sharp bone thrust through by way of ornament. The only object
that they showed any eagerness to possess was iron, but they could not
be made to understand that it was only to be given in exchange for
fruits or pigs. Their expression was one of sullen defiance, and they
refused to guide any one whatever to their village. During the
unprofitable stay of the corvette in this harbour, D'Urville had a
serious attack of enteritis, from which he suffered much for several
days.
On the 19th July the -Astrolabe- went to sea again and coasted the
northern side of New Britain, the object of this cruise was frustrated
by rainy and hazy weather. Continual squalls and heavy showers
compelled the vessel to put off again as soon as it had succeeded in
nearing the land. His experience on this coast D'Urville thus
describes:--"One who has not had, as we have, a practical acquaintance
with these seas, is unable to form any adequate conception of these
incredible rains. Moreover, to obtain a just estimate of the cares and
anxieties which a voyage like ours entails, there must be a liability
to the call of duties similar to those which we had to discharge. It
was very seldom that our horizon lay much beyond the distance of 200
yards, and our observations could not possibly be other than uncertain,
when our own true position was doubtful. Altogether, the whole of our
work upon New Britain, in spite of the unheard of hardships that fell
to our lot and the risks which the -Astrolabe- had to run, cannot be
put in comparison for a moment, as respects accuracy, with the other
surveys of the expedition."
As it was impracticable to fall back upon the route by the St. George's
Channel, D'Urville had to pass through Dampier's Strait, the southern
entrance to which is all but entirely closed by a chain of reefs, which
were grazed more than once by the -Astrolabe-.
The charming prospect of the western coast of New Britain excited
intense admiration both in Dampier and D'Entrecasteaux; an enthusiasm
fully shared by D'Urville. A safe roadstead enclosed by land forming a
semicircle, forests whose dark foliage contrasted with the golden
colour of the ripening fields, the whole surmounted by the lofty peaks
of Mount Gloucester, and this variety still further enhanced by the
undulating outlines of Rook Island, are the chief features of the
picture here presented by the coast of New Britain.
[Illustration: Lofty mountains clothed with dense and gloomy forests.]
On issuing from the strait the mountains of New Guinea rose grandly in
the distance; and on a nearer approach they were seen to form a sort of
half-circle shutting in the arm of the sea known as the Bay of
Astrolabe. The Schouten Islands, the Creek of the Attack (the place
where D'Urville had to withstand an onset of savages), Humboldt Bay,
Geelwinck Bay, the Traitor Islands, Tobie and Mysory, the Arfak
Mountains, were one after another recognized and passed, when the
-Astrolabe- at length came to an anchor in Port Dorei, in order to
connect her operations with those accomplished by the -Coquille-.
Friendly intercourse was at once established with the Papuans of that
place, who brought on board a number of birds of paradise, but not much
in the shape of provisions. These natives, are of so gentle and timid a
disposition, that only with great reluctance will they risk going into
the woods through fear of the Arfakis, who dwell on the mountains, and
are their sworn enemies.
One of the sailors engaged in getting fresh water was wounded with an
arrow shot by one of these savages, whom it was impossible to punish
for a dastardly outrage prompted by no motive whatever.
The land here is everywhere so fertile that it requires no more than
turning over and weeding, in order to yield the most abundant harvests;
yet the Papuans are so lazy and understand so little of the art of
agriculture, that the growth of food plants is often allowed to be
choked with weeds. The inhabitants belong to several races. D'Urville
divides them into three principal varieties: the Papuans, a mixed
breed, belonging more or less to the Malay or Polynesian race; and the
Harfous or Alfourous, who resemble the common type of Australians; New
Caledonians and the ordinary black Oceanic populations. These latter
would appear to be the true indigenous people of the country.
On the 6th September the -Astrolabe- again put to sea, and after an
uninteresting stay at New Guinea, in the course of which scarcely any
specimens of natural history were obtained, except a few mollusca, and
still less exact information regarding the customs, religion, or
language of its diversified population, steered for Amboyna, which was
reached without any accident on the 24th September. The governor, M.
Merkus, happened to be on circuit; but his absence was no obstacle to
the supply of all the stores needed by the commander. The reception
given by the authorities and the society of the place was of a very
cordial kind, and everything was done to compensate the French
explorers for the hardships undergone in their long and troublesome
voyage.
From Amboyna D'Urville proceeded to Hobart Town in Tasmania, a place
not visited by any French vessel since the time of Baudin, arriving on
the 27th December, 1827. Thirty-five years previously D'Entrecasteaux
had met on the shores of this island only a few wretched savages; and
ten years later Baudin found it quite deserted. The first piece of news
that Dumont d'Urville learnt on entering the river Derwent, before even
casting anchor at Hobart Town, was that Captain Dillon, an Englishman,
had received certain information, when at Tucopia, of the shipwreck of
La Pérouse at Vanikoro; and that he had brought away the hilt of a
sword which he believed to have belonged to that navigator. On his
arrival at Calcutta Dillon communicated his information to the
governor, who without delay despatched him with instructions to rescue
such of the shipwrecked crew as might still be alive, and collect
whatever relics could be found of the vessels. To D'Urville this
intelligence was of the highest interest, seeing that he had been
specially instructed to search for whatever might be calculated to
throw any light upon the fate of the unfortunate navigator, and he had
while at Namouka obtained proof of the residence for a time of La
Pérouse at the Friendly Islands.
In the English colony itself there was some difference of opinion as to
the credit which Captain Dillon's story was entitled to receive; but
the report which that officer had made to the Governor-General of
India, quite removed any doubt from the mind of D'Urville. Abandoning,
therefore, all further plans with reference to New Zealand, he decided
upon proceeding at once in the -Astrolabe-, in the track of Dillon, to
Vanikoro, which he then knew only by the name of Mallicolo.
[Illustration: Natives of Vanikoro. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
The following is the statement of the circumstances as made by Dillon.
During a stay made by the ship -Hunter- at the Fiji Islands, three
persons, a Prussian named Martin Bushart, his wife, and a Lascar,
called Achowlia, were received on board, endeavouring to escape from
the horrible fate awaiting them, which had already befallen the other
European deserters settled in that archipelago, that of being devoured
by the savages; this unhappy trio merely begged to be put on shore at
the first inhabited island which the -Hunter- might touch at.
Accordingly, they were left on one of the Charlotte Islands, Tucopia,
in 12 degrees 15 minutes S. lat, and 169 degrees W. long. In the month
of May, 1836, Dillon, who had been one of the crew of the ship
-Hunter-, paid a visit to the island of Tucopia, with a view of
ascertaining what had become of the people put on shore in 1813. There
he found the Lascar and the Prussian; the former of whom sold him a
silver sword-hilt. As might have been expected, Dillon was curious to
know how the natives of that island had come into possession of such an
article. The Prussian then related that on his arrival at Tucopia he
had found many articles of iron, such as bolts, axes, knives, spoons,
and other things, which he was told had come from Mallicolo, a group of
islands situated about two days canoe sail to the east of Tucopia. By
further interrogatories, Dillon learnt that two vessels had been thrown
upon the coasts many years previously, one of which had perished
entirely with all on board, whilst the crew of the second had
constructed out of the wreck of their ship a little boat, in which they
had put to sea, leaving some of their number at Mallicolo. The Lascar
said he had seen two of these men, who had acquired a well-merited
influence through services rendered to chiefs.
Dillon tried in vain to persuade his informant to take him to
Mallicolo, but was more successful with the Prussian, who took him
within sight of the island, called Research by D'Entrecasteaux, on
which, however, Dillon was unable to land on account of the dead calm
and his want of provisions.
On hearing his account, on his arrival at Pondicherry, the governor
entrusted him with the command of a boat specially constructed for
exploring purposes. This was in 1827. Dillon now touched at Tucopia,
where he obtained interpreters and a pilot, and thence went to
Mallicolo, where he learnt from the natives that the strangers had
stayed there five months to build their vessel, and that they had been
looked upon as supernatural visitors, an idea not a little confirmed by
their singular behaviour. They had been seen, for instance, to talk to
the moon and stars through a long stick, their noses were immense, and
some of them always remained standing, holding bars of iron in their
hands. Such was the impression left on the minds of the natives by the
astronomical observations, cocked hats, and sentinels of the French.
Dillon obtained from the natives a good many relics of the expedition,
and he also saw at the bottom of the sea, on the coral reef on which
the vessel had struck, some bronze cannons, a bell, and all kinds of
rubbish, which he reverently collected and carried to Paris, arriving
there in 1828, and receiving from the king a pension of 4000 francs as
a reward for his exertions. All doubt was dispelled when the Comte de
Lesseps, who had landed at Kamtchatka from La Pérouse's party,
identified the cannons and the carved stern of the -Boussole-, and the
armorial bearings of Colignon, the botanist, were made out on a silver
candlestick. All these interesting and curious facts, however,
D'Urville did not know until later; at present he had only heard
Dillon's first report. By chance, or perhaps because he was afraid of
being forestalled, the captain had not laid down the position of
Vanikoro or the route he followed on the way from Tucopia, which island
D'Urville supposed to belong to the Banks or Santa Cruz group, each as
little known as the other.
Before following D'Urville, however, we must pause with him for awhile
at Hobart Town, which he looked upon even then as a place of remarkable
importance. "Its houses," he says, "are very spacious, consisting only
of one story and the ground-floor, though their cleanness and
regularity give them a very pleasant appearance. Walking in the
streets, which are unpaved, though some have curb stones, is very
tiring; and the dust always rising in clouds is very trying to the
eyes. The Government house is pleasantly situated on the shores of the
bay, and will be greatly improved in a few years if the young trees
planted about it thrive. Native timber is quite unsuitable for
ornamental purposes."
The stay at Hobart Town was turned to account to complete the stock of
provisions, anchors, and other very requisite articles, and also to
repair the vessel and the rigging, the latter being sorely dilapidated.
On the 5th January the -Astrolabe- once more put to sea, surveyed
Norfolk Island on the 20th, Matthew Volcano six days later, Erronan on
the 28th, and the little Mitre Island on the 8th February, arriving the
next day off Tucopia, a small island three or four miles in
circumference with one rather pointed peak covered with vegetation. The
eastern side of Tucopia is apparently inaccessible from the violence of
the breakers continually dashing on to its beach. The eagerness of all
was now great, and was becoming unbounded when three boats, one
containing a European, were seen approaching. This European turned out
to be the Prussian calling himself Bushart, who had lately gone with
Dillon to Mallicolo, where the latter remained a whole month, and where
he really obtained the relics of the expedition as D'Urville had heard
at Hobart Town. Not a single Frenchman now remained on the island; the
last had died the previous year. Bushart at first consented, but
declined at the last moment, to go with D'Urville or to remain on the
-Astrolabe-.
Vanikoro is surrounded by reefs, through which, not without danger, the
-Astrolabe- found a passage, casting anchor in the same place as Dillon
had done, namely in Ocili Bay. The scene of the shipwreck was on the
other side of the bay. It was not easy to get information from the
natives, who were avaricious, untrustworthy, insolent, and deceitful.
An old man, however, was finally induced to confess that the whites who
had landed on the beach at Vanon had been received with a shower of
arrows, and that a fight ensued in which a good many natives had
fallen; as for the -maras- (sailors) they had all been killed, and
their skulls buried at Vanon. The rest of the bones had been used to
tip the arrows of the natives.
A canoe was now sent to the village of Nama, and after considerable
hesitation the natives were induced by a promise of some red cloth to
take the Frenchmen to the scene of the shipwreck about a mile off, near
Païon and opposite Ambi, where amongst the breakers at the bottom of a
sort of shelving beach anchors, cannons, and cannonballs, and many
other things were made out, leaving no doubt as to the facts in the
minds of the officers of the -Astrolabe-. It was evident to all that
the vessel had endeavoured to get inside the reefs by a kind of pass,
and that she had run aground and been unable to get off. The crew may
then have saved themselves at Païon, and according to the account of
some natives they built a little boat there, whilst the other vessel,
which had struck on the reef further out, had been lost with all on
board.
Chief Moembe had heard it said that the inhabitants of Vanon had
approached the vessel to pillage it, but had been driven back by the
whites, losing twenty men and three chiefs. The savages in their turn
had massacred all the French who landed, except two, who lived on the
island for the space of three months.
Another chief, Valiko by name, said that one of the boats had struck
outside the reef opposite Tanema after a very windy night, and that
nearly all its crew had perished before they could land. Many of the
sailors of the second vessel had got to land, and built at Païon a
little boat out of the pieces of the large ship wrecked. During their
stay at Païon quarrels arose, and two sailors with five natives of
Vanon and one from Tanema were killed. At the end of five months the
Frenchmen left the island.
Lastly, a third old man told how some thirty sailors belonging to the
first vessel had joined the crew of the second, and that they had all
left at the end of six or seven months. All these facts, which had so
to speak to be extracted by force, varied in their details; the last,
however, seemed most nearly to approach the truth. Amongst the objects
picked up by the -Astrolabe- were an anchor weighing about 1800 pounds,
a cast-iron cannon, a bronze swivel, a copper blunderbuss, some pig
lead, and several other considerably damaged articles of little
interest. These relics, with those collected by Dillon, are now in the
Naval Museum at the Louvre.
D'Urville did not leave Vanikoro without erecting a monument to the
memory of his unfortunate fellow-countrymen. This humble memorial was
placed in a mangrove grove off the reef itself. It consists of a
quadrangular prism, made of coral slabs six feet high, surmounted by a
pyramid of Koudi wood of the same height, bearing on a little plate of
lead the following inscription,--
A la Mémoire
DE LA PÉROUSE,
ET DE SES COMPAGNONS
L'ASTROLABE
14 -Mars-, 1828.
As soon as this task was accomplished, D'Urville prepared to set sail
again, as it was time he did, for the damp resulting from the torrents
of rain had engendered serious fevers, prostrating no less than
twenty-five of the party. The commander would have to make haste if he
wished to keep a crew fit to execute the arduous manoeuvres necessary
to the exit of the vessel from a narrow pass strewn with rocks.
The last day passed by the -Astrolabe- at Vanikoro would have shown the
truth to D'Urville had he needed any enlightening as to the true
disposition of the natives. The following is his account of the last
incidents of this dangerous halt.
"At eight o'clock, I was a good deal surprised to see half a dozen
canoes approaching from Tevaï, the more so, that two or three natives
from Manevaï who were on board showed no uneasiness, although they had
told me a few days before that the people of Tevaï were their mortal
enemies. I expressed my surprise to the Manevaians, who merely said,
with an evident air of equivocation, that they had made their peace
with the Tevaians, who were only bringing some cocoa-nuts. I soon saw,
however, that the new comers were carrying nothing but bows and arrows
in first rate condition. Two or three of them climbed on board, and in
a determined manner came up to the main watch to look down into the
orlop-deck to find out how many men were disabled, whilst a malignant
joy lit up their diabolical features. At this moment some of the crew
told me that two or three of the Manevaï men on board had done the same
thing during the last three or four days, and M. Gressien, who had been
watching their movements since the morning, thought he had seen the
warriors of the two tribes meet on the beach and have a long conference
together. Such behaviour gave proof of the most treacherous intentions,
and I felt the danger to be imminent. I at once ordered the natives to
leave the vessel and return to the canoes, but they had the audacity to
look at me with a proud and threatening expression, as if to defy me to
put my order into execution. I merely had the armoury, generally kept
jealously closed, opened, and with a severe look I pointed to it with
one hand, whilst with the other I motioned the savages to the canoes.
The sudden apparition of twenty shining muskets, the powers of which
they understood, made them tremble, and relieved us of their ominous
presence."
[Illustration: "I merely had the armoury opened."]
Before leaving the scene of this melancholy story, we will glean a few
details from D'Urville's account of it. The Vanikoro, Mallicolo, or, as
Dillon calls it, the La Pérouse group, consists of two islands,
Research and Tevaï. The former is no less than thirty miles in
circumference, whilst the latter is only nine miles round. Both are
lofty, clothed with impenetrable forests almost to the beach, and
surrounded by a barrier of reefs thirty-six miles in circumference,
with here and there a narrow strait between them. The inhabitants, who
are lazy, slovenly, stupid, fierce, cowardly, and avaricious, do not
exceed twelve or fifteen hundred in number. It was unfortunate for La
Pérouse to be shipwrecked amongst such people, when he would have
received a reception so different on any other island of Polynesia. The
women are naturally ugly, and the hard work they have to do, with their
general mode of life, render their appearance yet more displeasing. The
men are rather less ill-favoured, though they are stunted and lean, and
covered with ulcers and leprosy scars. Arrows and bows are their only
weapons, and, according to themselves, the former, with their very fine
bone tips, soldered on with extremely tenacious gum, inflict mortal
wounds. They therefore value them greatly, and the visitors had great
trouble to obtain any.
[Illustration: Reefs off Vanikoro.]
On the 17th March the -Astrolabe- at length issued from amongst the
terrible reefs encircling Vanikoro. D'Urville had intended to survey
Tamnako, Kennedy, Nitendi, and the Solomon Islands, where he hoped to
meet with traces of the survivors from the shipwreck of the -Boussole-
and the -Astrolabe-. But the melancholy condition of the crew, pulled
down as they were by fever, and the illness of most of the officers,
with the absence of any safe anchorage in this part of Oceania, decided
him to make for Guam, where he thought a little rest might possibly be
obtained. This was a very grave dereliction from the instructions which
ordered him to survey Torres Straits, but the fact of forty sailors
being -hors de combat- and on the sick-list, will suffice to prove how
foolish it would have been to make so perilous an attempt.
Not until the 26th April was Hogoley Archipelago sighted, where
D'Urville bridged over the gaps left by Duperrey in his exploration,
and only on the 2nd May did the coasts of Guam come in sight. Anchor
was cast at Umata, where a supply of fresh water was easily found, and
the climate much milder than at Agagna. On the 29th May, however, when
the expedition set sail again, the men were not by any means all
restored to health, which D'Urville attributed to the excesses in the
way of eating indulged in by the sick, and the impossibility of getting
them to keep to a suitable diet.
The good Medinilla, of whom Freycinet had such reason to speak
favourably, was still governor of Guam. He did not this time, it is
true, show so many kind attentions to the present expedition, but that
was because a terrible drought had just devastated the colony, and a
rumour had got afloat that the illness the crew of the -Astrolabe- was
suffering from was contagious. Umata too was a good distance from
Agagna, so that D'Urville could not visit the governor in his own home.
Medinilla, however, sent the expedition fresh provisions and fruits in
such quantities as to prove he had lost none of his old generosity.
After leaving Guam D'Urville surveyed, under sail, the Elivi, the
Uluthii of Lütke, Guapgolo and the Pelew group of the Caroline
Archipelago, was driven by contrary winds past Waigiou, Aiou, Asia, and
Guebek, and finally entered Bouron Straits and cast anchor off Amboine,
where he was cordially received by the Dutch authorities, and obtained
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