Captain Cook's second in command, and successor.
"Avatscha Bay," says La Perouse, "is certainly the best, most
commodious, and safest to be found in any part of the world. The
entrance is narrow, and forts might easily be constructed to command
vessels entering it. The anchorage is excellent, the bottom muddy; and
two large harbours, one on the eastern shore and one on the west,
would hold all the vessels of the French and English navy."
The -Boussole- and the -Astrolabe- set sail upon the 29th of September,
1787. M. de Lesseps, Vice-Consul for Russia, who had accompanied La
Perouse thus far upon his expedition, was charged to return to France
by land (at that time a most perilous journey), and to convey
despatches from the expedition to the government.
The question now arose of finding land discovered in 1620 by the
Spaniards. The two frigates passed south of 37 degrees 30 minutes some
three hundred leagues, without finding any trace of it. Crossing the
line for the third time, they passed the site given by Byron as that
of the Dangerous Islands, without finding them; and, upon the 6th of
December, entered the Navigator Archipelago, the merit of discovering
which belongs to Bougainville. The vessels were at once surrounded by
pirogues. The natives who manned them did not give La Perouse a very
favourable idea of the beauty of the inhabitants.
"I saw but two women," he says, "and they had no delicacy of feature;
the younger, who may have been eighteen years of age, had a frightful
ulcer upon her leg. Many of these islanders were covered with sores,
which may have been the commencement of leprosy; for I noticed two men,
whose ulcerated and swollen legs left no doubt as to their malady.
They approached us fearlessly and unarmed, and appeared as peaceable
as the natives of the Society or Friendly Islands."
Upon the 9th of December anchor was cast off Maouna Island. Next day
the weather was so promising that La Perouse resolved to land to take
in water, and then set sail at once, as the anchorage was too bad to
admit of a second night's stay. Every precaution having been taken, La
Perouse landed, and proceeded to the spot where his sailors were
obtaining water. Captain Langle penetrated to a small creek about a
league from the watering place, "and this excursion, from which he
returned delighted with the beauty of the village he had seen, was, as
will be seen, the cause of our misfortunes."
Upon the shore, meantime, a brisk trade was going on. Men and women
sold hens, parrots, fruits, and pigs. At the same time a native,
getting into one of the sloops, possessed himself of a hammer, and
commenced dealing vigorous blows upon a sailor's back. He was speedily
seized by four strong fellows, and thrown into the sea.
La Perouse penetrated into the interior, accompanied by women, old men,
and children. He enjoyed a delightful excursion through a charming
country, which rejoiced in the double advantage of a soil which
required no culture, and a climate in which clothing was superfluous.
"Bread-fruits, cocoa-nuts, bananas, guavas, and oranges afforded a
wholesome and sufficient nourishment to the inhabitants; while
chickens, pigs, and dogs, which lived upon the surplus fruits,
afforded the necessary change of diet.
"The first visit passed over without serious danger. There were a few
quarrels, it is true; but, thanks to the prudence and reserve of the
French, who kept on their guard, they did not amount to anything
serious. La Perouse had given orders to re-embark, when M. de Langle
insisted upon sending for a few more casks of water.
"He had adopted Captain Cook's views: he thought fresh water
preferable to all other things which he had on board; and as some of
his crew showed signs of scurvy, he was right in thinking that every
help should be given them."
La Perouse from the first had a presentiment against consenting. But
he yielded when M. de Langle persisted that a captain is responsible
for the health of his crew, that the spot which he named was perfectly
safe, that he himself would command the expedition, and that three
hours would suffice for the work.
"M. de Langle," says the narrative, "was a man of so much judgment,
that his representation influenced my decision more than anything else.
"Next day two boats, under command of M. Boutin and M. Mouton,
conveying all the sufferers from scurvy, under charge of six armed
soldiers and a captain, in all twenty-eight men, left the -Astrolabe-,
to be under M. de Langle's orders. M. de Langle was accompanied in his
boat by M. de Lauranon and M. Collinet, who were invalids, and M. de
Varignas, who was convalescent. M. de Gobien commanded the sloop, M.
de la Martinière, M. Lavant, and the elder Receveur, were amongst the
thirty-three persons sent by the -Boussole-. The entire force amounted
to sixty-one, and those the picked men of the expedition.
"M. de Langle ordered every one to be armed with guns, and six
swivel-guns were placed in the sloop. M. de Langle and all his
companions were greatly surprised when, instead of a large and
commodious bay, they found a creek filled with coral, which it was
only possible to reach through a tortuous channel, where the surf
broke violently. M. de Langle had only seen this bay at high tide, and
as soon as this new sight met his view his first idea was to regain
the former watering-place.
"But the friendly appearance of the natives, the number of women and
children he observed among them, the quantities of pigs and fruit they
offered for sale, put his prudent resolutions to flight.
"The water-casks of the four boats were landed quietly, the soldiers
keeping order upon the shore, and forming a barrier which left a free
space for the workers. But this peaceful condition of affairs did not
last long. Many of the pirogues, having disposed of their wares to our
vessels, returned to the shore, and, landing in the bay of our
watering-place, it was soon entirely filled by them. In place of the
two hundred natives, counting women and children, whom De Langle had
found an hour and a half previously, there were now, at the end of
three hours, a thousand or twelve hundred.
"M. de Langle's situation became more perilous every moment. He
succeeded, however, seconded by M. de Varignas, M. Boutin, M. Collier,
and Gobien, in embarking the water-casks. But the bay was almost dry,
and he could not hope to get his boats off before four o'clock in the
afternoon. However, followed by his detachment, he attempted it, and,
leading the way with his gun and the soldiers, he forbade firing until
he should give the order.
"He felt that he would soon be forced to fire. Already stones were
flying; and the Indians who were in shallow water surrounded the
sloops for a distance of at least two hundred yards. The soldiers who
were already in the boats tried in vain to drive them back.
"M. de Langle was anxious to avoid beginning hostilities, and fearful
of being accused of barbarity; otherwise he would, no doubt, have
ordered a general discharge, which would effectually have scattered
the multitude. But he believed he could subdue the natives without
bloodshed, and he was the victim of his humanity.
"Very soon a storm of stones, thrown at short distances with the force
of a sling, struck almost all who were in the sloop. M. de Langle had
only time to discharge his gun. He was thrown over, and unfortunately
fell outside the sloop. He was at once massacred by more than two
hundred Indians, who assailed him with clubs and stones. As soon as he
expired they fastened him by one arm to the sloop, no doubt with a
view to despoiling the body.
"The sloop of -La Boussole-, under M. Boutin, was run aground within
four yards of that of the -Astrolabe-, and parallel between them was a
narrow channel not yet occupied by the Indians. By this outlet, all
the wounded who were fortunate enough to avoid falling into the open
sea, escaped by swimming. They reached our boats, which fortunately
had remained afloat, and we succeeded in saving forty-nine out of the
sixty-one men who had composed the expedition.
"M. Boutin had imitated M. de Langle. He would not fire, and only gave
orders for a discharge after his commander's shot. Naturally, at the
short distance of four or five paces, every shot killed an Indian; but
there was no time to re-load. M. Boutin was knocked down by a stone,
and fortunately fell between the two stranded boats. Those who had
escaped by swimming towards the two boats had received many wounds,
mostly on the head; whilst those who, less fortunate, had fallen
overboard upon the side near the Indians, were killed instantaneously.
"The safety of forty-nine of the crew is due to the good order which M.
de Varignas was wise enough to maintain, and to the punctuality with
which M. Mouton, who commanded the boats of the -Boussole-, carried
out his orders.
"The boat belonging to the -Astrolabe- was so overloaded that it
grounded. The natives at once decided to harass the wounded in their
retreat. They hastened in great numbers towards the reefs, within six
feet of which the boats must necessarily pass. The little ammunition
which remained was exhausted upon these savages, and the boats at last
emerged from the creek."
La Perouse's first idea was naturally to avenge the death of his
unfortunate companions; but M. de Boutin, who, although severely
wounded, retained all his faculties, begged him to desist,
representing to him that if by any mishap one of the boats ran aground,
the creek was so situated, being bordered with trees which afforded
secure shelter to the natives, that not a Frenchman would come back
alive. La Perouse remained for two days upon the scene of this
terrible disaster, without being able to gratify the vindictive
desires of his crew.
"No doubt," says La Perouse, "it will appear incredible that during
this time five or six pirogues left the shore, bringing pigs, pigeons,
and cocoa-nuts, and offering them in exchange. I was forced to control
myself, or I should have disposed of these natives summarily enough."
It may readily be supposed that an event which deprived La Perouse of
a large number of officers, and of thirty-two of his best sailors, was
calculated to upset the plans of the expedition. At the slightest
approach of danger it would now be necessary to destroy one frigate,
in order to arm the other. But one course remained for La Perouse--to
set sail for Botany Bay, reconnoitring the various islands he passed,
and taking their astronomical positions.
Upon the 14th of December, Oyolava, another island belonging to the
same group, and which Bougainville had seen from a distance, was
sighted. It was larger than Tahiti, and exceeded that island in beauty,
fertility, and in the number of its inhabitants.
The natives resembled those of Maouna in every particular, and quickly
surrounded the two frigates, offering the multifarious productions of
their island. It appeared that the French must have been the first to
trade with them, for they were quite unacquainted with the use or
value of iron, and preferred a single coloured bead to a hatchet, or a
nail six inches long.
Some of the women had pleasant features and elegant figures; their
eyes were gentle, and their movements quiet, whilst the men were wild
and fierce in appearance.
Pola Island, also belonging to the Navigator Archipelago, was passed
upon the 17th of December. Probably the news of the massacre of the
French had already reached this people, for no pirogue approached the
vessels.
Cocoa-nut Island and Schouten's Traitor Island were recognized upon
the 20th of December. The latter is divided by a strait, which the
navigators would not have perceived, had they not coasted close in
shore. About a score of natives appeared, bringing the finest
cocoa-nuts La Perouse had ever seen, with a few bananas and one small
pig.
These islands, which Wallis calls Boscawen and Keppel Islands, and
which he places 1 degree 13 minutes too far west, may also be
considered part of the Navigator Archipelago. La Perouse considers the
natives of this group as belonging to the finest Polynesian race. Tall,
vigorous, and well-formed, they are of finer type than those of the
Sandwich Islands, whose language is very similar to theirs. Under
other circumstances, the captain would have proceeded to explore
Oyolava and Pola Islands; but the memory of the disaster at Maouna was
too recent, and he dreaded another encounter which might end in
massacre.
"Painful associations," he says, "met us with every succeeding island.
In the Recreation Islands, east of the Navigator Archipelago,
Roggewein's crew had been attacked and stoned to death; at Traitor
Island, which was now in sight, Schouten's crew were the victims; and
in the south was Maouna Island, where we ourselves had met with so
shocking a calamity.
"These recollections affected our way of dealing with the Indians. We
now punished every little theft and injustice severely; we
demonstrated by force of arms that flight would not save them from our
vengeance; we refused to allow them to come on board, and threatened
to punish all who did so without permission with death."
These remarks prove that La Perouse was right in preventing all
intercourse between his crews and the natives. We cannot sufficiently
praise the prudence and humanity of the commander who, in the excited
condition of his men's minds, knew how to curb the desire for
vengeance.
From the Navigator Islands the route was directed to the Friendly
Archipelago, which Cook had been unable to explore entirely. Upon the
27th of December, Vavao Island was discovered, one of the largest of
the group, which had not been visited by the English navigator. As
large as Tonga Tabou, it is higher, and not wanting in fresh water. La
Perouse reconnoitred many of these islands, and entered into relations
with the natives, who, however, did not offer sufficient provisions to
make it worth his while to trade. He therefore resolved upon the 1st
of January, 1788, to go to Botany Bay, following a route not yet
attempted by any navigator.
Pilstaart Island, discovered by Tasman--or rather, the rock of
Pilstaart, for its entire length is but a quarter of a
league--presents but a steep and broken appearance, and serves only as
a resting-place for sea birds. On this account La Perouse, having no
reason for remaining, wished to hasten on to New Holland; but there
was another power to be consulted--the wind, and by it La Perouse was
detained for three days before Pilstaart.
Norfolk Island and its two islets were sighted upon the 13th of
January. La Perouse cast anchor within easy distance of shore,
intending to allow the naturalists to land, and inspect the
productions of the island; but the waves broke with such violence upon
the beach that landing was impossible. Yet Cook had landed there with
the greatest facility.
An entire day was passed in vain attempts, and was quite unproductive
of scientific results.
Next day La Perouse started afresh, and upon entering the roadstead of
Botany Bay encountered an English vessel, under command of Commodore
Phillip, who was engaged in constructing Port Jackson, the embryo of
that powerful colony which in our day, after only a quarter of a
century's growth, has attained to such a height of civilization and
prosperity.
Here the journal kept by La Perouse terminates. A letter, written by
him from Botany Bay, upon the 5th of February, to the Naval Minister,
informs us that he intended building two sloops, to replace those
which had been destroyed at Maouna. All his wounded, amongst them M.
Lavaux, the surgeon of the -Astrolabe-, who had been trepanned, were
perfectly recovered. M. de Clenard had assumed command of the
-Astrolabe-, and had been succeeded upon the -Boussole- by M. de Monti.
In a letter of two days' later date, giving particulars of his
intended route, La Perouse says,--
"I shall regain the Friendly Islands, and carry out the instructions I
have received with regard to the northern portion of New Caledonia, to
Santa Cruz de Mendana, to the land south of the Arsacides of Surville,
and to the Louisiade of Bougainville, and also ascertain, if possible,
whether the latter constitutes a portion of New Guinea, or is a
separate continent. At the end of July, 1788, I shall pass between New
Guinea and New Holland by some other channel than the Endeavour; that
is to say, if there be another. During September, and the early part
of October, I propose to visit the Gulf of Carpentaria, and the
eastern coast of New Holland, as far as Van Diemen's Land, so as to
allow of my return to the north in time to arrive at Mauritius in the
beginning of December, 1788."
Not only did La Perouse fail to keep the rendezvous he himself
appointed, but two entire years passed away, and no news whatever of
his expedition were received.
Although at that epoch France was passing through a terrible crisis,
the interest of the public in the fate of La Perouse was so intense
that it found vent in an appeal to the National Assembly from the
members of the Society of Natural History in Paris. Upon the 9th of
February, 1791, a decree was passed enjoining the fitting out of two
or more armed vessels, to be sent in search of La Perouse. It was
argued, that had shipwreck overtaken the expedition a number of the
crews might still survive, and that it was only just to carry help to
them as soon as possible. Men of science, naturalists, and draughtsmen,
were to take part in the expedition, with the view to obtaining
valuable information for navigation, geography, and commerce, as well
as for the arts and sciences. Such were the terms of the decree to
which we have alluded.
The command of the expedition was entrusted to Vice-admiral Bruny
d'Entrecasteaux, who had attracted the attention of government by his
conduct in India. Two vessels, the -Recherche-, and the -Espérance-,
the latter under the orders of M. Huon de Kermadec, ship's captain,
were placed at his command. The staff of these vessels comprised many
officers who later attained to high military positions. Amongst them
were, Rossei, Willaumez, Trobriand, La Grandière, Laignel, and Jurien.
Amongst the men of science on board were, La Billardière, naturalist,
Bertrand and Pierson, astronomers, Ventenat and Riche, naturalists,
Beautemps-Beaupré, hydrographer, and Jouveney, engineer.
The vessels were stocked with provisions for eighteen months, and a
quantity of merchandise, for trading purposes. Leaving Brest upon the
28th of September, they reached Teneriffe upon the 13th of October. An
ascent of the famous Peak followed as a matter of course. La
Billardière noticed a phenomenon which had already been observed by
him in Asia Minor: his figure was reflected upon the clouds below him,
opposite to the sun, in every colour of the rainbow.
Upon the 23rd of October, the necessary provisions having been shipped,
anchor was weighed, and the start made for the Cape. During the cruise,
La Billardière discovered that the phosphorescent appearance of the
sea is caused by minute globular animalculi, floating in the waves.
The voyage to the Cape, where the vessels arrived upon the 18th of
January, 1792, was barren of incident, if we except the unusual
quantity of bonitos, or tunny, and other fish that were met with, and
a small leakage which occurred, but was quickly remedied.
At the Cape, D'Entrecasteaux found a letter from M. de Saint Felix,
commanding the French forces in India, which seemed likely to upset
all his plans, and exercise an unfavourable influence upon the
expedition. From this communication it appeared that two French
captains, from Batavia, had stated that Commodore Hunter, in command
of the English frigate -Syrius-, had seen, "near the Admiralty Islands,
in the Pacific Ocean, men dressed in the European style, and in what
he took to be French uniforms." "It is clear," wrote M. de Saint Felix,
"that the commodore was convinced they were the remnants of La
Perouse's company."
When D'Entrecasteaux arrived at the Cape, Hunter was still in the
roadstead; but within two hours of the arrival of the French vessels
he weighed anchor. This conduct, appeared very strange. The commodore
had had time to hear that the vessels just arrived were those sent in
search of La Perouse, and yet he had made no communication to the
commander upon the subject. But it was soon ascertained that Hunter
had declared himself quite ignorant of the facts stated by M. de Saint
Felix. Were they then to be regarded as unfounded? Incredible as M. de
Saint Felix's communication appeared, D'Entrecasteaux could not
suppose so.
[Illustration: Portrait of D'Entrecasteaux. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
The naturalists had availed themselves of their stay at the Cape to
make many excursions in the neighbourhood: La Billardière had
penetrated as far into the interior as the short stay of the frigates
in the roadstead permitted.
Anchor was weighed upon the 16th of February, and D'Entrecasteaux
decided upon reaching the southern seas by doubling Cape Horn, and
steered for the passage between St. Paul and Amsterdam Islands.
Captain Valming had discovered these islands in 1696, and they had
been recognized by Cook in his last voyage. When the -Recherche- and
the -Espérance- passed St. Paul Island it was enveloped in a thick
smoke, through which the summits of the mountains were visible. The
forests were on fire.
Upon the 21st of April the two vessels entered a bay upon the coast of
Van Diemen's Land, which was supposed to be Adventure Bay, but which
in reality was Storm Bay. The extreme point of this bay was named
after D'Entrecasteaux. Wood was easily obtained there, and fish was
very abundant. Amongst the magnificent trees of the country, La
Billardière mentions various species of the eucalyptus, the many uses
of which were then unknown. The hunting-parties caught black swans and
kangaroos, creatures also but little known.
Upon the 16th of May the vessels left the port, and made for a strait,
afterwards named after D'Entrecasteaux.
"M. Creton and M. Auribeau," says the narrative, "were encouraged to
land by the sight of fires close to the shore. They had gone but a
short distance when they came upon four natives, attending to three
small fires, by which they were seated. They took to flight on seeing
the strangers, in spite of every friendly demonstration, leaving the
lobsters and shell-fish which they had been broiling. As many huts as
there were fires were close by.
"One of the natives, in his hurry, left a small basket, full of pieces
of silica, behind him. He was not afraid to return in search of it,
but approached Creton with a bold air, possibly owing to his
confidence in his own strength. Some of these savages were naked, and
others wore only a kangaroo skin upon the shoulders. In colour they
were nearly black; they had woolly hair, and allowed the beard to
grow."
[Illustration: "They came upon four natives."]
Upon leaving D'Entrecasteaux Strait, the vessels proceeded to survey
the south-western coast of New Caledonia, which La Perouse should have
visited. A portion of Pine Island, which stretches to the north of
that country, was the first to be recognized.
The -Recherche- narrowly escaped destruction upon the coral reefs
which surround the coast, leaving only a narrow passage between them
and the main land. At the northern extremity several mountainous
islands and detached rocks were perceived, which rendered the
navigation extremely dangerous. The navigators, grateful for their
escape, named them the Entrecasteaux Reefs and Huon Islands.
The survey of this perilous coast lasted from the 16th of June to the
3rd of July. A true service was thus rendered to geographers and
navigators, though it was, perhaps, the least profitable part of the
voyage of discovery.
As the favourable season was now approaching, D'Entrecasteaux
determined to avail himself of it to reach the land of the Arsacides,
which had been seen by Surville, and visited some years later by
Shortland, who, imagining he was making a new discovery, named it New
Georgia.
"Upon the 9th of July," says La Billardière, "towards half-past four
o'clock, we perceived, about ten miles to the N.W., a rock called
Eddystone. We took it at first, as Shortland had done, for a sailing
vessel. The illusion was the greater, as in colour it much resembles
the sails of a ship; a few shrubs crowned the summit. The land of the
Arsacides, opposite this rock, is steep, and covered with large
trees."
After rectifying the position of Eddystone rocks, and that of the
Treasury Islands--which are five in number, though so close together
that Bougainville took them for one island--D'Entrecasteaux coasted
Bougainville Island. It is separated from Bouka Island by a narrow
strait, and is covered with plantations. It appeared to be well
populated. Some trade was done with the natives, but nothing would
induce them to venture on board the vessels.
"The colour of their skins," says La Billardière, "is nearly black.
They are of medium height, and wear no clothes. They are muscular and
strong. Although their features are not pleasant, they are very
expressive. They have large heads, and broad foreheads. Their faces,
especially in the lower part, are flat; they have thick chins, rather
prominent cheek bones, flat noses, large mouths, and thin lips.
"Their ugliness is increased by the colour with which the betel-nut
stains their mouths. They appear very skilful in the use of bows and
arrows. One of them brought a gannet which he had just killed, on
board, and the hole made by the arrow could easily be seen.
"These natives have bestowed particular attention upon their weapons,
which are very well finished. We could not but admire the skill with
which they coated the strings of their bows with resin, in such a way
that at first sight they looked like catgut. The centre was protected
with a piece of bark, to lessen the wear in projecting the arrows."
The survey of the western coast of these two islands was completed
upon the 15th of July. Bougainville had already surveyed the eastern
shore.
Next day the French navigators sighted first the island to which
Carteret had given the name of Sir Charles Hardy, and then the south
eastern extremity of New Ireland.
The two vessels cast anchor in Carteret Bay, and the crews were
established upon Cocoa Island. This island is covered with evergreen
trees, which, in spite of the volcanic nature of the soil, grow
vigorously.
The cocoa-nuts from which it received its name were procured with
difficulty. On the other hand, it afforded the naturalists so many
varieties of plants and insects as to charm Billardière.
Rain fell abundantly during the stay; it was like a ceaseless torrent
of tepid water.
After obtaining the necessary wood and water, the -Recherche- and
-Espérance- set sail from Port Carteret upon the 24th of July, 1792.
In so doing the Espérance unfortunately lost an anchor, the cable
having been cut by the coral reefs. The two vessels then entered St.
George's Strait, which at the southern extremity is only about
forty-two miles in width, about half the extent assigned to it by
Carteret. The currents were so rapid that the ships were carried past
Man and Sandwich Islands, without being able to stop.
After sighting Portland Islands, low lands, seven in number, which
stretch from 2 degrees 39 minutes 44 seconds S. lat. to 147 degrees 15
minutes E. long., D'Entrecasteaux continued his route towards the
Admiralty Islands, which he intended to visit. It was upon the most
easterly of these islands that, according to the report received by
Commodore Hunter, the natives wearing French naval uniforms had been
seen.
"The natives appeared in crowds," says the narrative. "Some ran along
the shore, others, fixing their eyes upon our vessels, invited us by
signs to land. The cries they uttered were intended to express their
joy. At half-past one the vessels anchored, and a boat was despatched
from each, containing articles for distribution among the natives of
this small island. The frigates were so placed as to protect the boats
as they neared the land, in the event of any attack by the savages,
for our recollection of the treachery of the natives of the islands
south of the Admiralty made us distrustful."
The coast abounded in reefs; the boats could only approach within a
hundred yards of the shore. Numbers of the natives crowded to the
beach, and invited the French by signs to land.
"One of the savages, distinguished by a double row of small shells
upon his forehead, appeared to exercise a good deal of authority. He
ordered one of the natives to jump into the water, and bring us some
cocoa-nuts. Fearing to approach strangers swimming and defenceless, he
hesitated for a moment. The chief, evidently quite unaccustomed to
resistance to his wishes, followed up his command by blows from his
club, and compelled obedience.
"As soon as the islander returned to land, curiosity brought the
natives around him in crowds. Each wished to participate in our
presents. Pirogues were immediately launched, and many natives swam to
the boats, which were shortly surrounded by quite a crowd. We were
surprised that the violence of the surf upon the breakers did not
intimidate them."
Perhaps the French may have attempted that which the Indians
accomplished. It seems probable that they would never have observed
these people if the vessels, or at least a small boat, had not been
wrecked in the archipelago.
The only remark made by them is to the effect that the natives
understood and appreciated the use of iron.
D'Entrecasteaux then proceeded to reconnoitre the northern portion of
the archipelago, and to trade with the natives. He did not land
anywhere, and does not appear to have executed this part of his task
with the minute care and attention which might have been expected of
him.
The -Recherche- and the -Espérance- afterwards visited the Hermit
Islands, discovered in 1781 by a Spanish frigate, -La Princesa-. The
natives, like all those they had encountered, showed a great desire to
induce the strangers to land, but did not succeed in persuading them
to do so.
The Exchequer Islands, discovered by Bougainville, several unknown low
islands, covered with luxuriant vegetation, Schouten Island, and the
coast of New Guinea, were successively sighted. In the interior of the
last-named a large chain of mountains was distinguished, the loftiest
of which appeared at least three thousand five hundred feet high.
After coasting this large island, the -Recherche- and the -Espérance-
entered Pitt Strait to reach the Moluccas.
Upon the 5th of September, 1792, the French joyfully anchored in the
roadstead of Amboyna. There were many sufferers from scurvy on board,
and officers and crew alike needed a lengthened rest. The naturalists,
astronomers, and other scientific men immediately landed, and took the
necessary steps for the prosecution of their various observations. The
naturalists were particularly successful in acquiring new facts. La
Billardière congratulates himself upon the multiplicity of new plants
and animals that he was able to obtain.
"Once when upon the shore," he says, "I heard what appeared to be wind
instruments, the tones now harmonious, now discordant, yet never
unpleasing. These harmonious and distinct sounds appeared to come from
a distance, and I imagined the natives were making music some six or
seven miles beyond the roadstead. But my ear deceived me, for I found
that I was not a hundred yards from the instrument. A bamboo cane, at
least sixty feet high, was fixed vertically upon the shore. At each
notch a slit had been made, about two and a half inches long and one
and a quarter broad. These slits made so many openings for the wind,
which, passing through them, produced varied and pleasant sounds. As
the notches in this cane were very numerous, the slits had been made
all round, so that whichever way the wind blew it went through some of
them. I can only compare the sound of this instrument to that of an
harmonium."
During this long stay of a month in one place the vessels were well
caulked, the sails and rigging attended to, and every precaution taken
for a voyage in tropical and damp climates.
A few details on the roadstead of Amboyna, and the manners and customs
of the native population, will not be out of place.
"Amboyna roadstead," says La Billardière, "forms a channel some
thirteen or fourteen miles in length, and about two and a half miles
in breadth. It affords good anchorage, although the bottom is partly
of coral.
"The fort, called Victory Fort, is built of bricks; the governor and
some of the members of government reside there. It was at this time
falling into ruins, and every discharge of cannon did evident damage.
"The garrison consisted of about two hundred men, of which the natives
of the island composed a considerable part; the remainder consisted of
a few retired European soldiers and a small detachment of a Wurtemberg
regiment.
"The mortality amongst officers living in the Indies makes the lives
of those who have been some time in the climate precious; the Dutch
Company is therefore seldom true to its promise to allow them to
return to Europe at the expiration of their time of service. I met
with several of these unfortunate men who had been detained for more
than twenty years, when, according to agreement, they ought to have
been freed long before.
"The language of the natives of Amboyna is Malay. It is very soft and
musical. The country produces spices, coffee, which is inferior to
that of Reunion Island, and sago; the latter is largely cultivated in
the marshy districts.
"The rice consumed at Amboyna is not indigenous to the soil, but still
it might be successfully cultivated in the low lands. The Dutch
Company, however, prohibit the growth of this article of commerce,
because its sale enables them to keep back a part of the sum which
they are obliged to pay for cloves furnished by the blacks. They thus
prevent the increase of pay, and obtain the fruits of native labour at
a moderate price.
"Thus the company, consulting their own interest only, discourage all
industry in the population, by forcing them, as it were, to relinquish
everything but the cultivation of spices.
"The Dutch are careful to limit the cultivation of spices within the
compass of ordinary consumption. Their efforts, which are destructive
of all enterprise, chime in with the -nonchalant- character of the
natives."
On the 23rd of "Vendémiaire"[1] of the year 1, if we conform to the
new style, as Bougainville does, the two vessels left Amboyna, amply
provisioned with fowls, ducks, geese, pigs, goats, potatoes, yams,
bananas, and pumpkins. Meat, however, they obtained in but small
quantities, the flour was of a bad quality, and the sailors could
never accustom themselves to the sago which was shipped in its stead;
bamboos, cloves, and arrack may be added to the list of shipments.
[Footnote 1: First month of the Republican calendar.]
"Young bamboo shoots, cut in slices, and preserved in vinegar," says
La Billardière, "made an excellent store for a long voyage. These
young shoots are generally very tender. They are gathered early, and
sold in the market as vegetables, for which they are a good substitute.
They are often a yard long, and half an inch thick.
"These young bamboo shoots are much appreciated by the Chinese, who
think them similar to asparagus in flavour.
"We were also provided with cloves and nutmegs preserved in sugar. The
shell of the nutmeg is the only edible portion; unfortunately,
ignorant preservers had chosen full-grown nutmegs. Cloves, when once
as large as ordinary olives, retain too much flavour to be a pleasant
sweetmeat. One must be endowed with an Indian palate to enjoy them. I
might say the same of our ginger preserves.
"The only spirituous liquor obtainable was arrack, several casks of
which were bought. Many travellers have spoken in praise of this
liquor, which is, in reality, not equal to the poorest brandy."
Upon leaving Amboyna, the expedition sailed for the south-west coast
of Australia. Shortly afterwards, Kisser Island, the north shore of
Timor, Baton Island, and the delightful Sauva Island, were
successively passed; and finally, upon the 16th "Frimaire," the
western extremity of the south-western coast of New Holland, which was
discovered by Leuwin in 1622, was sighted.
The coast presented a succession of sandy dunes, in the midst of which
arose pointed rocks, apparently utterly sterile. Navigation upon this
unsheltered coast was extremely dangerous. The sea ran high, the wind
was boisterous, and it was necessary to steer amongst the breakers.
During a strong gale the -Espérance- was nearly driven upon the coast,
when one of the officers fortunately distinguished from the main-mast
an anchorage, where, he declared, the ships would be in safety.
"The safety of the two ships," says the narrative, "was due to this
discovery, for the -Recherche-, after battling as long as she could
against the storm, had been forced to tack about all night amidst
these perilous breakers, hoping for a change of wind which would make
it possible for her to reach the open sea, and must infallibly have
perished. This bay, named Legrand, after the able seaman who first
discovered it, will always recall his invaluable service to the
expedition."
The islets surrounding this coast were reconnoitred by the navigators.
A geographical engineer, named Riche, belonging to the -Recherche-,
landing upon the mainland to make observations, lost his way, and only
reached the vessels after two days' absence, nearly dead of fatigue
and hunger.
This small archipelago concluded the discoveries of Nuyts.
"We were surprised," says La Billardière, "at the exactitude with
which the latitude had been determined by this navigator, at a time
when instruments were very imperfect. The same remark applies to
nearly all Leuwin's discoveries in this region."
Upon the 15th Nivose[2] 31 degrees 52 minutes lat. and 129 degrees 16
minutes E. long., Captain Huon de Kermadec informed D'Entrecasteaux
that his rudder was injured, that he was obliged to limit his crew to
three quarters of a bottle of water per day, that he had been forced
to discontinue the distribution of anti-scorbutic drinks, and that he
had only thirty casks of water remaining. The -Recherche- was hardly
in better case. D'Entrecasteaux accordingly made for Cape Dieman,
after navigating for about six hundred and seventy miles along a
barren coast, which offered no object of interest or value.
[Footnote 2: Fourth month of the Republican calendar, from 21st
December to 21st January.]
Upon the 3rd Pluviose,[3] the vessels anchored in the Bay of Rocks, in
Tempest Bay, which they had visited the preceding year. This spot was
very rich in points of interest. La Billardière was amazed at the
varied products of this portion of Van Diemen's Land, and was never
tired of admiring the vast forests of gigantic trees, and the many
unknown shrubs and plants, through which he had to force his way.
During one of his numerous excursions he picked up some fine pieces of
beautiful bronze red hæmatite, and further on some earth containing
ochre, of so bright a red as to denote the presence of iron. He soon
encountered some natives, and his remarks upon this race, which is now
quite extinct, are interesting enough for repetition; moreover, they
complete the particulars already given by Captain Cook.
[Footnote 3: Fifth month of the Republican calendar, from 20th January
to 20th February.]
He says, "There were about forty-two natives; seven grown men, and
eight women, the others appeared to be their children; many of them
were girls already arrived at maturity, who were even more lightly
clad than their mothers. They have woolly hair, and the men let their
beards grow long. In the children the upper jaw projects, but in
adults it is about even with the lower. No doubt these people consider
it a beauty to be black; for, not being very dark to begin with, they
powder the upper part of the body with coal dust.
"We noticed rows of spots on the skin, especially of the shoulders and
breast, now in lines above three inches long, now in equidistant dots.
These people do not appear to observe the custom which many travellers
have thought to be universal amongst their tribes, of extracting the
incisor teeth, for we saw no native with any missing from the upper
jaw, and they all had very fine, strong teeth. These people swarm with
vermin. We could not but admire the patience of a woman, whom we
watched freeing her child of them; nor could we avoid feeling shocked
when she crushed the disgusting insects with her teeth, and then
swallowed them. Monkeys have the same habit!
"The young children greatly admired everything shining, and they did
not hesitate to take the metal buttons off our coats. I must not omit
to mention a trick played upon a sailor by a young savage. The man had
collected a number of shells, and left them in a bag at the foot of a
rock. The native furtively removed them, and allowed the sailor to
search for them vainly for some time; then quietly replacing them, he
seemed much amused at the trick he had played."
Early in the morning of the 26th Pluviose the two vessels weighed
anchor, entered D'Entrecasteaux Strait, and, on the 5th of Ventose,[4]
anchored in Adventure Bay. After a stay of five days, spent in taking
observations, D'Entrecasteaux set sail for New Zealand, and reached
its southern extremity. After an interview with the natives, too short
to admit of additions being made to the many and precise observations
of Captain Cook, D'Entrecasteaux started for the Friendly Islands,
which La Perouse had intended visiting. He anchored in Tonga Tabou Bay.
The vessels were at once surrounded by a crowd of pirogues, and
literally boarded by the natives, who came to sell pigs and every
variety of fruit.
[Footnote 4: Fifth month of French Republican calendar.]
One of the sons of Poulao, the king Cook had known, received the
navigators cordially, and scrupulously superintended the trade with
the islanders. This was no easy task, for they developed surprising
talents for stealing everything which came in their way.
La Billardière describes rather a good joke of which he was the victim.
He was followed to the provision tent by two natives, whom he took to
be chiefs.
"One of them," he says, "was very anxious to choose the best fruits
for me. I had placed my hat on the ground, thinking it safe there; but
these two rogues understood their business. The one behind me was
clever enough to hide my hat under his clothes, and was off before I
perceived the theft; the other speedily followed. I was the more
surprised at this attempt, because I should have supposed they would
not have had the courage to steal so large an object, running the risk
of being caught, in the enclosure to which we had admitted them.
Moreover, a hat could not be a very useful article to these people,
who generally go bare-headed. Their dexterity in robbing me, convinced
me that it was by no means their first attempt."
The French entered into relations with a chief named Finau, probably
the same who is mentioned as Finauo in Captain Cook's voyage, and who
called him Touté. But he was only a secondary chief. The real king,
supreme chief of Tonga Tabou, Vavao, and of Annamooka, was named
Toubau. He visited the ships, and brought back a gun which had been
stolen a day or two previously from a sentinel. He presented
D'Entrecasteaux with two pieces of stuff made from the bark of the
mulberry-tree, so large that if opened out either would have covered
the vessel. In exchange for mats and pigs he received a fine hatchet
and a general's red coat, which he immediately put on.
Two days later, an extraordinarily stout female, at least fifty years
of age, and to whom the natives paid great respect, came on board.
This was Queen Tina. She tasted everything that was offered to her,
but preferred preserved bananas. The steward stood behind her chair,
and waited to clear away, but she saved him the trouble by
appropriating the plate and napkin.
King Toubau was anxious to give an entertainment to D'Entrecasteaux.
The admiral was received upon landing by two chiefs, Finau and Omalai,
and conducted by them to an extensive esplanade. Toubau arrived with
his two daughters. They had sprinkled a quantity of cocoa-nut oil upon
their heads, and each wore a necklace made of the pretty seeds of the
-arbus peccatorius-.
"The natives," says the narrative, "arrived from all parts in great
crowds; we estimated that the number amounted to at least four
thousand.
"The seat of honour was evidently to the left of the king, for he
invited D'Entrecasteaux to take his place there. The captain then
offered the presents he had brought for the king which were gratefully
accepted. A piece of crimson damask excited the most vivid admiration
from all the assembled natives. 'Eho! Eho!' they exclaimed repeatedly,
in accents of the greatest surprise. They uttered the same admiring
cry when we unfolded some pieces of coloured ribbon, in which red
predominated. The captain then presented a couple of goats, and a pair
of rabbits, of which the king promised to take every care.
D'Entrecasteaux also bestowed various presents upon Toubau's son
Omalai, and several other chiefs.
"To our right, on the north-east, under a shady bread-fruit tree laden
with fruit, thirteen musicians were seated, who sang together in
different parts. Four of the musicians played the accompaniment by
striking bamboo canes, yard and a yard and a half long, upon the
ground, the holder of the longest bamboo occasionally acting as
conductor. These bamboo canes emitted a sound not unlike that of a
tambourine, and they were arranged in the following order. The two
medium-sized canes were in unison, the longest a tone and a half lower,
and the shortest two tones and a half higher. The voice of the alto
was heard far above all the others, although he was a little hoarse;
he accompanied himself by striking with two little sticks upon a
bamboo cane, some six yards long, and split throughout its entire
length. Three musicians stationed in front of the others appeared to
explain the song by gestures, which had apparently been well studied,
as they all acted in unison. Occasionally gracefully moving their arms,
they turned towards the king; whilst sometimes they suddenly sunk
their heads upon their breasts, and as suddenly tossed them back.
"After these entertainments Toubau offered the captain several pieces
of stuff made from the bark of the mulberry-tree. He had them unrolled
with great ostentation, that we might fully appreciate the value of
his gift. The minister seated upon his left ordered the preparation of
'kava,' which was soon brought in an oval-shaped wooden vase, about
three feet long.
"The musicians had reserved their best pieces for this moment, for at
each succeeding effort we heard applauding cries of 'Mâli, Mâli;' and
it was evident that the music had an agreeable and inspiriting effect
upon the natives. The 'kava' was then offered to the various chiefs by
those who had prepared it."
This concert, it will be seen, was by no means equal to the splendid
entertainment which had been given to Captain Cook.
[Illustration: Fête in honour of D'Entrecasteaux at the Friendly
Islands. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]
Queen Tina followed it up by giving a grand ball, which was preceded
by a concert, fully attended by the natives, amongst whom, we may
incidentally mention, were numbers of thieves, who became so bold that
they ended by forcibly taking possession of a cutlas. As the
blacksmith of the -Recherche- pursued the thieves, they turned, and
seeing him alone, struck him on the head with a club. Fortunately his
danger was perceived by those on board the -Espérance-, and a
well-directed shot dispersed his assaillants. Several natives were
killed upon this occasion by the officers and sailors, who, not seeing
exactly what had happened, treated all the islanders they met as
dangerous. Fortunately, concord was soon restored; and the relations
were so friendly when the time came for the French to leave, that many
of the natives begged to accompany them to France.
"The intelligent account which these islanders gave of the vessels
which had anchored in this archipelago," says the narrative,
"convinced us that La Perouse had not visited any of these islands.
They remembered perfectly every occasion upon which they had seen
Captain Cook, and they indicated the intervals between his visits by
the crops of yams, reckoning two in each year."
It is true that their information, as far as it related to La Perouse,
was in direct contradiction to the facts which Dumont-Durville
collected thirty-six years later, when Tamaha was queen.
"I was anxious to know," he says, "if any Europeans had visited Tonga
between Cook and D'Entrecasteaux. After a few moments' reflection, she
explained to me very clearly that a few years before D'Entrecasteaux's
visit, two large vessels, like his in every respect, carrying guns and
many Europeans, had anchored off Annamooka, and remained there six
days. They showed a white flag, quite unlike the English one. The
strangers had been very friendly with the natives, and had had a house
on the island and entered into trade. She related that a native who
had agreed to exchange a wooden bolster for a knife, was shot by an
officer because he wanted to take back his merchandise when he had
been paid for it. However, the incident had not broken the peace,
because in that instance the native was in the wrong."
Although it is impossible to suspect Dumont-Durville of any attempt at
imposition, many portions of this circumstantial account bear the
impress of truth, more especially that relating to the flag, as being
different to that of the English. Must we then charge D'Entrecasteaux
with want of thoroughness in his work? This would be a very serious
charge. Yet two circumstances, which we shall presently relate, appear
to point to that conclusion.
The natives witnessed the departure of the French with keen regret.
The expedition left upon the 21st Germinal,[5] and six days later the
-Espérance- signalled Erronan, the most easterly of the islands of
Santo Espiritu, discovered by Quiros in 1660. Beyond this Annatom,
Tanna, with its volcano in constant eruption, and the
Beautemps-Beaupré Islands were passed. Carried onwards by the currents,
the vessels were soon in sight of the mountains of New Caledonia, and
anchored in Balade harbour, where Captain Cook had cast anchor in 1774.
[Footnote 5: Seventh month of the Republican calendar, from 21st March
to 19th April.]
The natives were acquainted with the use of iron, but they did not
appear to value it as highly as others had done, probably because the
stones they used instead were very hard and answered admirably for
their purposes. Their first demand upon going on board was for
something to eat; and their need was unmistakable, for they pointed to
their manifestly empty stomachs. Captain Cook had already remarked
that they managed their pirogues, which were far less ingeniously
constructed than those of the Friendly Islands, unskilfully. The
greater number of these natives had woolly hair, and skins almost as
black as those of the inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land. Their weapons
were assegais and clubs; and in addition to these they carried at the
waist a little bag, full of the oval stones which they throw from
their slings.
[Illustration: Typical native of New Holland. (Fac-simile of early
engraving.)]
After a short excursion inland, during which they visited the huts of
the natives, which were shaped like beehives, the officers and
naturalists prepared to re-embark.
"Upon returning to our boat," says the narrative, "we found more than
seven hundred natives, who had assembled from all directions. They
began by demanding stuffs and iron in exchange for their wares, and
soon some of them proved themselves arrant thieves.
"I will mention one of their many manoeuvres. A man offered to sell me
the little bag of stones which he carried at his waist. He unfastened
it, and pretended to offer it to me in one hand, whilst he held out
the other for the price upon which we had agreed. But at the same
moment another native, who had taken up his stand behind me, uttered a
shrill scream, which made me turn my head in his direction, whereupon
the rogue made off with his bag, and hid himself in the crowd. We were
unwilling to punish him, although most of us carried our guns.
"Unfortunately our leniency might be regarded as a proof of our
weakness, and so add to the native insolence; and an incident which
shortly occurred indicates this was so.
"Some natives were bold enough to throw stones at an officer who was
only about two hundred paces away from us. We were still unwilling to
act harshly, as we had heard so much in their favour from Forster's
narrative, and had such confidence in their good will that still more
evidence was required to convince us of their real character.
"One of them, who was enjoying a broiled bone, and busily devouring
the meat which still clung to it, offered a share of his meal to a
sailor named Piron. He, thinking it to be the bone of some animal,
accepted it, but before eating it showed it to me. I at once
recognized that it had belonged to the body of a child, of probably
fourteen or fifteen years of age. The natives crowding round us,
showed us upon a living child the position of the bone, owning without
hesitation that the man had been making his meal off it, and giving us
to understand that it was a great delicacy.
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